Tatz's Travels Around the World

The last day of spring break was visiting the Ajanta caves.  While the Ellora caves are more renowned for their carvings, Ajanta caves have many preserved frescos. Their preservation is mainly due to the remote location of the caves, with no civilization nearby to ruin the art work. The caves were only re-discovered in 1819 by British hunters who were following a tiger. As a matter of fact, the area is still remote enough that tigers still roam the region.  Built between 200 BC and 7^th century AD, these caves were a sanctuary for Buddhist monks during the monsoon season and contain monasteries for those wishing to remove themselves from civilization and devote themselves to prayer.

The drive to the caves is a long one, which is why they are not usually found on the typical ‘visiting India itinerary’, but boy are they worth the effort.  During the 2 ½ hour drive there were some fun scenes, especially people ‘playing’ Holi (the term for throwing dye and water during this joyful festival) and non-veg Indians lining up at various roadside butcher stalls for meat.  It was interesting to see it was the men doing the buying, probably because the women were home getting ready for the feast.  Included in the scenes were many colorful temples and worshippers engaged in processions with their idols.

I was enamored by the shape of the haystacks.  One day I need to have a blog post just showing all the different ways hay is gathered around the world.

Arriving at the Ajanta caves meant switching to a local bus that reminded me of the children’s story ‘The Little Engine That Could’ because with its grinding motor slowly trudging up the hill and through the dense forest, I wasn’t sure we were going to make it.  But make it we did and after paying our entrance fee and securing a guide, we started our walk to the caves. 

The 30 caves (15 completed and 15 not completed) are perched on a cliff, a horseshoe overlooking the Wag River which was dry now but during monsoon season the bridge we crossed is underwater! 

Like at the Ellora Caves, when it is monsoon season the rock overhangs create shelter and a waterfall of beauty for those inside.

The various caves were not planned in any particular order, but rather sprang up (or rather carved in) as the desire or need arouse through various periods of time.  The earliest cave (Cave 10) dates from 2^nd century BC.  A second wave of building occurred 400 years later under the support of the Gupta imperial families, after which the focus on building Buddhist caves to spread Buddhism, declined. However, enough background!  Time to explore the caves, which we did starting with cave 26 and working our way back.

We entered our first cave, number 26, with its ornate carvings and reclining Buddha.  The vaulted ceilings were reminiscent of what we saw in Ellora but this cave is more ornate and had a warm feeling to it. There were carvings depicting scenes from Buddha’s life, including his temptation by the demon Mara.

The next cave, 24, is an unfinished monastery, so we were able to enter with our shoes on.  It gave us a clue about the frescoes to come.

Then there was cave 21, a finished monastery, and again I thought these were amazing cave frescoes.

Cave 17 is considered one of the most perfect examples of Buddhist rock-cut architecture of the late 5^th Century AD, with sound proportions and lack of wood details (although the ceiling was carvings to mimic wood).  During this era, Buddha began to be positioned on a votive stupa.

The interesting details on the painted ceiling were charming. The wings and halos made me think of Orthodox iconography, which probably took inspiration from this style as Byzantium started 100 or so years after this cave was built.

My favorite photo from this cave:

Then we entered cave 17 and it all became clear what Ajanta’s legend is all about. UNBELIEVABLE.  Cave 17 has the greatest number of preserved murals, and the guidebook talks about several of the masterpieces one can see here.  Built between 475-500AD during what is known as the Vakata Age, the cave is protected with air conditioning (less powerful than originally used as it damaged the paint) and the cave is shaded from the midday sun with an awning.  Everything is being done to maintain the beauty of the cave, which is left for us to image what all the other caves must have looked like before being destroyed by time and human interference.

The columns are rather simple compared to the rest of the caves, but I felt they complemented and balanced the beauty of the painting. They were, of course, necessary to support the ceiling.

The painted ceilings along the side of the temple really were what connected the whole space and elevated the space.

What also struck me about the painted walls is how similar they looked to what has been excavated at Pompeii, which was 400 years earlier.  I saw the same red paint being used and felt the same sense of painted walls decorating a room like wallpaper today.

This is my favorite photo from this cave:

Cave 16 gives us a good idea of how these caves were monasteries.  The center room (the meditation chamber) is large and faces a giant Buddha.  Surrounding the room are the monk’s cells which were actually cozy and inspired meditation, I really felt a sense of peace while sitting in the cell.

There is an inscription at the base of the cave that states this was a gift from Varahadeva, a minister of Vakataka King Harisena (475-500 AD).  The pillars, once painted, are simple symbols of stability.

Cave 10 is the oldest cave, built in the 2^nd century BC.  It is most famous for its early examples of Indian painting. There are places where newer painting covered older work, but I couldn’t tell where the 4th century additions were. The painting are all depictions of Buddha in various stages of his life. There was a large stupa in the center of the hall, and the ceiling was not as formal as newer caves – clearly the technology did not yet exist.

Cave 9 was similar to 10 inside, although less artwork has survived on the walls.  However, it’s outside façade was quite large and elegant.  It is visible from far away and is a center point that one’s eye wanders to. It was the second cave discovered.

Cave number four was next and was meant to be the largest but was never finished. There are 28 pillars surrounding the room, but  I really noticed the incredible acoustics of the caves here, as I was not distracted by the artwork.  The Buddha’s location and setting are typical however it looked like the statue was made of wood.  The unfinished ceiling was also intriguing – did they run out of time or money- or did they know the cave would fall in if they continued carving?  Either way, it was fascinating to see how they inched away the rock.

Here are my favorite photos from this cave.

Cave 2 was also an experience of loveliness and awe.  Built in 6-7^th centuries AD, it is one of the best caves in Ajanta and has extensive paintings all around.  The round circle designs on the ceiling are some of the finest examples as they retain their contrasting colors, brightness and luster.  The room is filled with images of Buddha, a room dedicated to the importance of his life as a role model.

The loveliness of the cave started even before we entered, as the outer doorway retained some of the paintings.

My favorite photo from the outside of cave 2:

Upon entering the cave, you don’t know where to look as your eye is drawn to so many of the details.  However, the overall sense of the cave is coziness as a result of these details. To start with, the two photos below show the difference exposure on the camera makes!

This photo shows how both the walls and the ceiling were ornately decorated.

But let’s not forget the purpose of this hall was to honor Buddha, and his statue in the teaching pose did not get lost among all the artwork.

The last cave, Cave 1, had a lightness to it, more so than the other caves.

A highlight of the visit to Ajanta Caves was seeing unfinished caves.  It was amazing to see how the process unfolded.  Again, I marveled at the talents and engineering skills of these ancient devotees.

Looking at these two columns, you can get a sense of how they started with the simple shape and then added the decorations.

Here are some random photos I took while we were exploring the caves.

The elephant with the layers is original while the other elephant is not. It was renovated 10 years ago.

There was a Tibetan monk tour group wandering around, making for a great photo opportunity.

Walking through the caves was only 7000 steps, but 50 (or it seemed) flights of stairs.  Since we were returning to the car park the other way – which was ALL stairs,  my knees had enough so I paid the ₹2000 for the chair ride down.  $20 well spent!

Three-hour drive to and from the caves resulted in some great Indian life photos.

There was plenty of farmland.

We passed even more poojas happening.

Two reasons for covering your heads!

This road word was interesting, as they were covering the cement with wet sacs to prevent something, but I don’t remember that the driver told me!

There was some unique street art, the local government obviously funded an artist who was into scenic views and classical styles.

More traditional street art had a different flair as well.

Last but not least, I found the photos I took of the animals under the overpass….the driver deliberately went a different way so I could capture the peacock!

The driver and a super photo, if I do say so myself!

Phew! Thus ends my Spring Break exploring Ellora, Ajanta and Hampi. Stay tuned for my next adventure!

High on my list of places to visit in India were the Ellora caves.  Lynn and I left Hampi and met up with Zeeshan at the airport.  We got up early for our day exploring Ellora. 

We arrived at the caves, a World Heritage site since 1983 with hundreds of caves but only 34 of which are able to be toured. One of the aspects that sets Ellora apart from other similar sites is that there are Jain, Buddhist and Hindu caves located here. This area was a large stop on the Silk Road trade route so there was a lot of money available for such architecture. While built from volcanic rock, which is very strong, the lava was a slow layering so there aren’t dinosaur fossils and other such archaeological artifacts.

The first cave you see upon entering the grounds is massive and impressive.  Officially known as Cave 16, the temple was carved directly in the mountain rock, from top to bottom.  It was first carved into a square block, then they started working on the details, again from the top.  The logistics and planning, not to mention the pressure not to make a mistake, must have been amazing.  This cave was built between 735-773 AD, during the reign of two kings and is a Hindu temple.

Words cannot describe the massiveness of this endeavor. At first you just enjoy the temple and its surroundings.  Then it begins to dawn on your that this beautiful structure was carved from a single rock, connected to a hill.  I don’t think I still fully appreciate the mastery involved.

I am starting with photos looking from the top down, rather than follow my usual pattern of the order of my visit. These two photos are compliments of Lynn.

These views below are from the center of the temple, where you climb to explore inside.

Entering the massive temple (it can hold 200 worshippers) you are first struck by the remnants of painting on the walls and the carved guards at the entrance. While hard to see on the photos below, one guard is looking in, while the other looking out – making sure all angles are protected.

Inside you can start appreciating the details and artistry!

The inner sanctuary, deliberately simple in its design, is the Shiva Linga.  The round bottom represents Parvati the wife and her uterus.  Here milk was poured over the Shiva Linga which blessed it, then it poured through the channel to the bowl located outside the temple for people to drink.

Archeologists have decided not to restore the painting because it would not be the original

At first, I thought the dark ceilings and ruts in the floor were due to wear and tear as well as age.  However, we learned that in the 18th century, people lived in the temple because it was safe (there were a lot of wars in the area).  The black ceilings are from their fires and the worn holes from cooking, a built-in mortar for chilis!  Our guide, who is an archeologist and historian, was mortified by this but I can’t help but understand.

Before this site became a UNESCO supported location, the grass lawn we see from the royal box was a parking lot.  Needless to say the CO2 fumes did a lot of damage in this balcony and other parts of the temple.

In this compound you will actually find five temples, the main one and four small shrines which surround the main temple.  There are five to represent the five elements.  Since dancing is a way to connect with God in Hinduism, the walls are adorned with dancing figures.  While waiting for Lynn to get her perfect photo, I was able to notice the intricate carvings and other details on the outside walls.

Our visit to cave 16 started in the right corner, where you can see the best view of the whole temple from the ground. This temple, 33 m high, sits in the enveloping arms of the surrounding rock wall.  When being built, 200,000 cubic tons of rock was excavated from here.  I wonder what they did with it!

As I sat to admire the view, more and more detail kept popping up, observations and impressions that kept building upon each other throughout this visit.  Our guide said every time he comes here, he notices something new.  I believe him!

Last, and certainly not least, we walked to the back of the temple. It was here I started to understand the immenseness of the structure.

I end our foray into Cave 16 with some fun moments.

Next, we visited the Jain caves, chronologically the newest caves built in the 10-11^th centuries.  Like with the other caves, these were built from the top to bottom, then carved from the front to the back.  Like Buddha, the founder of Jainism got fed up with his materialistic life, achieved enlightenment, and started his religion.  Most of the three caves we visited had images of Manatunga, who wrote many of the Jain prayers.  Also present are images of Lord Mahavira, considered by many to be the founder of Jainism. 

The first cave, Number 32, had an inner courtyard like that in Cave 16.  There was a central temple, with a surrounding gallery.  There was a column of victory of good over evil, but not one of glory (something I feel Jainism doesn’t strive for).  The elephants were here as well, seemingly a symbol for all religions in India.

For me, while not the engineering masterpiece of Cave 16, caves 33 and 34 had a spiritual warmth to them. Nestled into a corner added to the ambiance of worship.  In these caves, you went from hall to hall, so in essence, you visited both caves in one go.

Each of the chapels had the same design, a large open space with a central altar.  The altar has the founder sitting in the lotus potion flanked by disciples.  The wall surrounding this altar reminded me of a Russian Orthodox iconostasis, with a prescribed depiction of key designs, events or disciples.

We explored five chapels. The first two were smallest, one with a lotus on the ceiling.

I call this next chapel the dark room, with its blacker stones and deeper carvings.

The next two chapels were the most elegant.

One had a slab on the floor in the center of the room.  Archaeologists believe precious items might have been stored there.

The other chapel did not have the slab on the floor but had some evidence to indicate that this was used as a home in the 18^th century as well.

Being intrigued by all the columns in these chapels, I decided to dedicate a section of this blog post to my favorite photos.  The Greek influence on columns in India started after the invasion of the Indus valley by Alexander the Great in 325 BC.

I also felt that some of the remnants of the carvings or frescos looked like modern art.

Without a doubt, my most favorite part was seeing the incomplete statue above.  One can see how the artisan started and would work their way down deeper into the rock.  This would have been a full body had it been completed.

The earliest caves in the area are the Buddhist ones, built in the 6^th century.  We only visited one of these caves, with its stunning vaulted ceiling and beautiful acoustics.  Why only visit one?  This is why:

The Buddhist compound, which housed a monastery as well, was chosen due to the abundance of jade in the rocks. I saw quite a bit of jade and some quartz but didn’t see the malachite that can be found here as well.

The hill was dotted with temples, caves and dormitories and I kept looking at the grassy hilltop and wondered what was underneath! I also wondered if the carved simplicity was due to the age of the caves and a lack of technological knowledge, or in keeping with a monastic theme.

That said, the one cave we entered (cave 10) was spectacular.  The cathedral ceiling while simple in design had an artistic elegance and beauty.  I was mesmerized in the temple, a feeling supported by the music playing.

I think it is fitting I leave our visit to the caves with the peaceful music resonating in the stunning acoustics of the temple cave.

As we headed back to the car we passed the expected monkeys, and I had to agree with this fellow.  It is WAY too hot to move.

There were a few other things we did that day, after cooling off in the car’s AC.

We visited a silk sari store where we saw how fabric was created.  The silkworms for these shops are in Bangalore where the weather is more suited to their growth. Since most of the weaving work is done by women in their homes, the looms here are for education purposes.  It takes two people one month to make the material for one sari. I did learn there are two forms of sari fabric: Himroo and Paithani.

Himroo, Persian for ‘close to your soul’, is a complicated method that involves intermeshing various silk threads made from gold, silver and cotton.  This is of Persian origin with most of the designs on this fabric being Persian figurative motifs.   This fabric was originally meant for royal families.

Paithani is another style believed to have started in the Riveda period (1500-1000BC) but thrived in the 18^th century due to patronage from Peshwa Empire.

We shopped (Lynn bought saris which she wears regularly) and Zeeshan did the male ‘sit and wait’ thing.

Here you can see the work in progress.

Hampi is known as the City of Gates.  The city and surrounding area has over 1600 surviving ruins, including various gates, check posts, and other structures used for defense and access.  We passed or went through 7 of them.

A highlight for Zeeshan was visiting the tomb of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir.  This is the son of the man who built the Taj Mahal.  The simplicity of his tomb is in direct contract to the extravagance of the Taj and symbolizes the values of this great emperor.  Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir did not spend any money from the state treasury and lived off of the prayer caps he made and the Korans he copied.  He did a lot of good during his lifetime and is a revered historical figure.

Next are some photos of scenes from our drives around Ellora.

Our day ended at the Mini Taj, the tomb of Aurangzeb’s wife, built by his son between 1651-61. A little more grand than the father’s not as grand as the grandmother’s!

While the simplicity of the tomb was nice with the marble floral motifs surrounding you, the gate house had the most interesting inlay.

The street art under the overpass was stunning, I especially loved the peacock but that close up didn’t come out.

Our fifth day in Hampi was a travel day as we headed towards Ellora.  Travelling does not mean there are no photo opportunities! 

First, of course, was taking a photo with our driver, Afzal, another example of excellent the service and driving I have experienced in this country.

As we drove to the airport, I noticed the morning sellers and farmers heading off to work or the market.  Once on the highway there were MANY fully loaded trucks on the road bearing fruits and vegetables, reminding me we are leaving a key agricultural region of India.

There were the requisite beautiful temples of course.

As well as beautifully sari-ed women going about their days.

Lastly, I learned Mumbai is not the only airport with stunning artwork!

At the airport we said goodbye to Bhargavi who was heading home, while Lynn and I were joining Zeeshan in Ellora.

And I end these Hampi blog posts with a few examples of the local street art.

Our fourth day in Hampi started with our second day with Ravi and our next exciting explorations.  Off we went to the Vitala Temple, a major stop on the Hampi list.

We entered the complex of the temple through the tax gate and while walking to the temple (rather than take the van) we saw this building, the Gejjala/Parankusha Mandapa where minor events were celebrated, like engagements (weddings would have been at the main temple). Originally this building marked the beginning of the main road to the temple, while now it stands majestically in a field by the parking lot.

This small structure had lovely stone carvings and a square platform where the deity was placed in preparation for the procession to the main temple. It continues to amaze me how the stone pillars still stand after all these years, with no cement or nails keep them in place.  You can see how the stones are placed on top of each other here.

The walk was well worth it as we saw some interesting details and animals.  As always, Ravi knows best and we smiled as van after van passed us full of tourists. 

We saw remnants of the main road to the temple.  It is a goal of archaeologists here to excavate this road.  

As we walked we learned more interesting information about the Vijaynagara age. For example, kingship was not hereditary. Ministers chose who was best suited to be the ruler. Also we learned about the governmental minister who realized the cars driving up to the temple were causing vibrations and carbon emissions which was causing erosion. Therefore one can only enter the temple grounds by walking or electrical car! Of most importance we learned, the government of Karnataka gives money for free school field trips (which includes food, lodging, and transport) to Hampi.  These trips are funded in the hopes of building interest in the field of archaeology.

First, we saw the Kudure gombe (meaning toy horse) Mandapa (which means open wall temple) with its elegant horse pillars and their pronounced carvings.  This was located in what was the temple’s bazaar.  This is the only place in Hampi with such a motif and was built towards the end of the Vijaynagara age.

Next were the watering tanks where ablutions, religious washing, took place before one entered the temple grounds.  The smaller tank does not have a pedestal for an idol which indicates it was built later than other structures in the area.  There is no outlet for the water and as it evaporates the river and drainage refill it.  The Portuguese used this tank, as do farmers today.  Ravi explained that the local Minister hands out free rice to those living below the poverty line (which the women were eating) and of course, the kind women used some of this rice to feed the turtles so we could see them.  Of most interest for me was the alligator, birds and turtles in the tank.

Lastly, during this walk there was an excellent view of Hanuman’s palace and the steps up to it. Hanuman, the monkey king, is said to have special powers and qualities that he used to help Rama rescue his wife Sita. Time prevented us from climbing up the stairs to visit this (at least that is the excuse we are sticking to!).

Our walk ended as we approached the stupa with its requisite odd number of layers and entered the inner grounds of the Vittala Temple, one of the most important temples found in Hampi with its workmanship showcasing the most mature architecture of the Vijaynagara age.  Building began in 1422 by Devaraya II with subsequent rulers adding to it.

It is here one finds the stone chariot seen on tourist maps, books and paraphernalia all around Hampi.  This is considered an architectural marvel, and I can see why.  Although entirely made of stone, it has a lightness to it, which makes it seem like it can roll across the temple grounds.  You can see how the wheels are separate from the axle. The king would have strong men turn the wheels to represent movement of the chariot during important ceremonies.  The road we saw while walking here was a straight line from the outer entrance through this chariot to the main temple. Details, details, details!

Originally there were two horses that pulled the chariot, but an invader with their catapult destroyed the horses.  Replaced by elephants who don’t entirely fit into the pieces left from the horses nor have the delicacy of the rest of the chariot.

On the complex filled with temples, open walled and closed, are some columns that are unique in their delicacy.  These original pillars have withstood the ravages of time and are here to impress us with their juxtaposition to the other columns of the complex.

The next amazing wonder Ravi pointed out to us were the ‘singing pillars’.  Crafted expertly so that musicians would tap them at key spots, the eight pillars created musical notes of varying tones for playing.  One can still see the indentations where the multitude of taps were made.  Another musical ‘instrument’ was this carved bowl which was used as a drum.

The carvings on the pillars were amazing and I kept looking deeper and deeper at the details.   Inside the open walled temples with their carved columns was like a sea of beauty, with each column a masterpiece on its own, surrounded by other masterpieces that blend together into a harmonious ocean.

The outside walls were equally intricate and carefully crafted with attention to detail that left one awestruck.  For example, you can see Chinese and Portuguese noblemen carved on the bottom rows, indicating the influence of these countries and homage for the trade they gave to the civilization.  Of greatest amazement is the intentional holes crafted, small enough for a pen AND a thin twig.  Can you just imagine the pressure on the artisans not to make a mistake??

Below are hooks for silk curtains hung during festivals.  Can you imagine how beautiful this must have looked, with the beige of the stone enveloped by colorful Indian fabrics?!  Equally playing on the imagination was the row on the outside wall where candles were lit at night.

We went inside the main temple, which while not very interesting architecturally had some great moments.  Sadly, we learned that in the past, the Brahmins could not walk in a place where even the shadows of untouchable landed, so wherever light went through – even in the inner sanctum where musicians walked around, untouchables wouldn’t be allowed in.  This inner sanctum area also has a lot of bats which we saw but there wasn’t enough light to photograph them. So nice that today everyone enjoys the beauty of this temple.

Being off-season, we were able to view this location with minimal crowding.  In high season, this location would be wall to wall people!  The only experience we didn’t get being off-season is the nighttime light shows.  Missing those shows made up for seeing Hampi in its full beauty.  We had wonderful people moments here as well.  This group of tourists took many photos of us and spoke the same dialect from the neighborhood Bhargavi came from!  In general, all the visitors today are farmers and fishermen who arrive in busses for their pilgrimages during their off-season.

Behind the temple we walked to the river.  On the way we saw the kings balance.  On a certain holiday a person would be weighed against precious metals which would then be distributed to the poor. There were also many other buildings ruins dotting the hills.

At the river it was pleasant to sit in the shade and enjoy the view.  Included in this view was the king’s bathroom, a building where he could bathe in privacy. We enjoyed a glass of fresh sugar cane juice and lamented that the famous café was closed (according to Ravi it has the best food).

We took the electric bus back to the car and went off to our next stop: the Zenana Enclosure where we could see the Lotus Mahal, Ranga Temple and Elephant Stables.  Zenana Enclosure’s name implies this is a woman’s enclosure however there is no evidence that links these buildings to the queens’ court.  Furthermore, the presence of the elephant stables and a parade ground nearby indicate this was used by the king or his commanders.  The style of these buildings is Indo-Islamic which is why much of it wasn’t destroyed after the invasion.  These buildings are considered an excellent example of Vijayanagara secular architecture.

Quite fascinating was the surrounding wall, which was built without mortar, with granite blocks being artfully and mathematically placed together.  This thick wall was built so well that it still stands today.

Next is the foundation called ‘the Queen’s Basement’.  The function of these remains unknown however it was a palace,  which faced north with a flight of stairs with elephant balustrades and ornamental moldings.

This foundation immersed in the ground was probably the treasury due to its lack of an obvious entrance and small ventilation holes.

Now on to more interesting buildings. 

First is the Lotus Mahal, one of the best-preserved buildings in the complex due to its Islamic elements which made it safe during the Muslim invasion.  It was probably a council chamber with its symmetrical projections on each of the four sides.

Surrounding this enclosure are watchtowers which also highlight Indo-Islamic architecture.  The Vijayanagara empire enjoyed combining various architectural styles in its secular buildings, which can be seen here.

Now we enter the highlight of this complex: the elephant stables.  One walks through a small opening and then the eyes fall on this stunning architecture, with its rooftop that pays homage to various religious architectural styles.  The grassy courtyard serves to frame the image.

The guard house served two functions, then and today.  First of course was a home for the guards.  Second was the beauty salon for the elephants.  Today is also serves as a museum of sculpture.

On the way to our next location, we passed the site of archaeological digs. While most of the archaeologists and workers were on their lunch break, we were able to see a little of the painstaking work excavating is.

Our next stop was to the archeological museum, which aside from being interesting, was air conditioned so it was much easier to get immersed in the learning.  Established in 1956 with the current building erected in 1972, the museum was beautifully arranged with wall colors setting a tone of calmness while highlighting the displays. 

The first room of the museum was organized around the gods and goddess sculptures found around Hampi, with each section of the room showing various depictions of the deities.

Also included were artifacts with writings or carvings on metal (as well as palm leaf, which is amazing it has survived).  I learned the field of epigraphy focuses on the deciphering and interpretation of these inscriptions, which of course provide valuable insights into the history, language and culture of ancient civilizations.

There was a lot of information about the history and culture of the Vijayanagara Empire and a variety of artifacts that helped bring it to life.

The highlight for me was the large diorama of Hampi, which allowed me to get a sense of the location of the places we visited and their relation to each other.  The minutely detailed diorama even paid homage to the plethora of stones and boulders found around the area. 

Our day with Ravi continued with us driving across the river to the town where there are several artisan workshops, jobs for women who support their families. 

It was fascinating to see the arts and crafts one buys being created.  The first shop had women weaving with inexpensive banana fiber which allows these products to compete with machine made ones.  The workmanship was exceptional, using a crochet hook technique to create the various products.  Ravi thanked us for supporting this NGO while we were just happy to shop!

Next stop was to see how plaster was being made.  On the wall you see various consistencies for buyers to decide the type they want.

The last shop, another weaving location, was closing for the day and we saw the women heading home.  We were able to support this venture as well.

Walking through the town afforded us many opportunities to see how everyone lives and to take some photos.

The day ended with our stopping at a market behind the temple we visited on day one and a stunning sunset.  Included here are some photos I took while we waited for the driver this morning and a video with the glorious sounds of our hotel grounds at night.

Our afternoon explorations were on our own (with the driver who followed the tour guide’s recommendations).  We visited several interesting places but first I am including the photo from Day 3 part 1, our bird walk naturalist, which I forgot to include in the previous post.

The first place we visited was the Badavadi Linga Temple with its huge, monolithic Shiva linga.  The linga structure remains in water all year round, sourced by a tributary of the Tungabhhadra River.  It was fun to hear the water flowing underneath the stone ‘bridge’.

Alongside this, one finds the Narasimha Shrine, another huge stone sculpture.   This is a strong example of Vijayanagara art and was built in 1528.  Here we see Vishnu sitting in a yoga position on the sacred snake that is his guardian. He is surrounded by intricate carvings.  Missing from this artwork is the sitting Lakshmi, his consort who originally was on his left.  Missing also are some aspects of his face which led scholar to originally think this was a depiction of Ferocious Narasimha, but the remnants of Lakshmi’s hand on the back is proof this is a god.

Next, we visited the underground Shiva Temple, thus called because it was buried and recently excavated.   This temple dates to the 14^th century.  Most prominent here was the bull (Shiva’s mount) sitting in water. Looking at the bull inside the temple, I felt like I was discovering a mystery.

Located near the royal compounds, it is assumed this temple served the servants or nobles working for the royal family.

Near where we started our morning bird walk (you can see a well-lit photo of the stairs we climbed) is the monolithic bull.  Monolithic creations seem to be big in Hampi, obviously because of the prevalence of massive stones! 

It is here that we had one of those unexpected travel moments. I saw a sign for textiles and decided to look inside what I thought was a store.  Instead, we were treated to an exhibit featuring the textiles of the state of Karnaka.  The exhibit was called Pampa, the ancient name of the Tungabhhadra River and the purpose was to show off the weaving of the state, styles that are not very well known.  This exhibit, which took a year to curate and three weeks to set it up, has only been up for three weeks with tomorrow being the last day. There were original pieces alongside modern designers’ depictions of these traditional styles.  There was a free tour given by a student, who was incredibly knowledgeable and a good storyteller, making looking a materials very interesting!  Another example of the current governmental focus on restoring or remembering traditional art forms.

The exhibit was artfully arranged and a joy to walk through.

Saris, of course, took center stage, highlighting all the various patterns and ways women drape saris in India. The sari material and patterned blouses worn with saris made my mouth drool they were so beautiful. 

There was a section of the exhibit focusing on embroidery and quilting.  The various stitches were fascinating, as were the textiles which doubled as game boards! 

Lastly, textiles from the north which reminded me of Russian Valenki (felt boots).

True to the creativity and focus of this exhibit, the comments ‘book’ was a piece of cotton cloth hanging on the wall!

Without a doubt, the most amazing spot we visited today was the Hazara Ramachandra Temple (which translates as Thousand Ramas), the royal chapel. This temple was built in the 14^th and 15^th centuries and is dedicated to Vishnu.  The multitude of carvings are unique in their delicacy and themes, from processions to dancing to water sports!  No design or motif is repeated and life during the Vijayanagara reign is depicted. What an incredible treat to walk around this artistic masterpiece, having fun just exploring the temple – without any lectures, without any religious discussions – just walking through history in our own pace. 

Bhargavi was the first to relish the details.  She sat at this spot for a long time, so I honor her eye for detail with this photo!

Lynn noticed the columns with the dancing theme, including a carving of Ganesha dancing, something none of us had seen before!

I was transfixed by the black onyx columns.

Some other creatures enjoyed the temple as well!  By the way, chipmunks are noisy…who knew?!

I end this blog post with some photos from the day, showing life in Hampi. First are the carts with heading to sell their harvest.

Next are some photos of archaeological sights we drove by but didn’t visit. There were a lot more!

These are what the traditional homes looked like.

Seeing women in the traditional dress was a highlight. They were probably off to an event.

I end with a photo of today’s flower arrangement at the hotel and my favorite dish which I ate there three times!

Our third day started early with a sunrise hike and a birdwatching tour.  Glorious!

We headed out to our location along with ox-driven carts with locals heading to work.  We passed the Tungabhadra River and walked up a steep but not very long hill.  The gray morning light slowly brightened as the perfectly round orange orb rose from the horizon, shining light on the hidden temple we were looking at.  Our quiet voices were overshadowed by a surround sound of bird songs.  I couldn’t get a lot of great photos of birds as the light wasn’t great yet, but I didn’t care. Chandra Shekara, our naturalist bird guide, pointed out various birds as they flew, landed and flitted away.  He had an amazing speaker that played bird songs to draw birds in so that helped us with our sightings.

After the sun rose, we walked down to the temple we had been looking at from above.  This temple is really affecting me positively, as I feel I’m in a place that is not normally visited. I could feel history there, imagine the sounds of the prayers and the merchants selling wares. I was a bit disappointed when other tourists came by, but I was able to enjoy my moment, nonetheless.

The Achyutaraya Temple is from the 1534.  This was one of the last grandiose projects before the fall of the empire and was built in the Vijayanagar style.

It was here we saw more interesting birds, including a whole colony of Spotted Owlets, an usual sight we relished. It’s been a while since the trip happened so I hope my bird name are correct!

Below was the rarest bird we saw: The Black Blue-Faced Malkova. Note the bright blue eye.

As we left there was a whole colony of Rosy Starlings, a migratory bird from Himanchal Pradesh, Pakistan, and Afghanistan.

We also saw a flock of Blue Tailed Bee-eaters enjoying the wires as a resting spot.  These migratory birds make nests in the ground!

The Bazaar located in front of the temple is of course called the Achyuarataya Bazaar.  A jeweler’s box with precious stones was found in the floor with historians guessing perhaps it had been hurriedly buried during the invasion of the capital in 1565.  Behind the Bazaar was the temple pool.  This is where we saw the Black Blue-Faced Malkova.  On the path we saw Leopard and Sloth Bear droppings, so one could imagine those animals walking up and down the path like we were!

Our guide pointed out some leopard poop with bones inside.  He shared how precarious life in the village is. The monkeys come into town because they forage food from the humans and then the leopards smell their urine and wait for them to stretch and fall down from the tree and then they eat them.

Our walk continued past more ruins of this city and the well-preserved Varaha Temple.

We walked and finally saw the river.  The first half of the river was surrounded by rocks, but the second half with greenery.  It was such a visual shock to see so much green!

These are the best photos of wild butterflies I have ever taken.  Their rapid movements made capturing such views very difficult so I was pretty pleased!

This man is fishing on traditional fishing boat.  One can pay for a ride on these boats, but we decided not to.

Women were taking advantage of the tourist location to sell vegetables, therefore, where there is food there are monkeys!  Most interesting for me was this baby Bennett Mako monkey who is about a week old.  The father (I assume) was grooming him and gave me a dirty look when I stepped too close, so I moved back.

The tour ended with us walking through the rock tunnel, past some wishing rock arrangements and off to the parking lot where the car was waiting for us.  We went out to lunch, rested and then continued touring without a guide. More on that in my next post!

Today started very quietly as we relaxed and enjoyed the hotel, reenergizing after the intensity of yesterday. 

The first jaunt was a Sloth Bear Safari.  These bears are called Bindu due to the white ‘bindi’ on their foreheads.  The bears live in a reserve started up by local people but is now a state park. While they feed the bears some sugary treats to get them to come -much to the offense of my friend Bhargavi (honey is part of their normal diet but honey is too expensive), the bears look healthy and clearly eat on their own, as we saw one bear looking for bugs in a nearby tree.  Because we paid for taking photographs, we got to sit in the cage near the bears (as opposed to a lookout on the hill). 

Many of the female bears have babies, another sign of a healthy life.  The mother will stay with the babies for 2 ½ to 3 years.  We saw one older set of twins and a very new (one month old) set.  It was fascinating to see the mom eating and the kids playing (riding on her back as well).  At one point the twins went off and after a few seconds the mom realized they were gone and rushed after them.  I could feel her worry.  They returned after 10 minutes safe and sound. 

At one point, the naturalist jumped into the cage and locked the door – he heard growling (leopards were spotted yesterday).  After listening a little longer, he concluded it was a bear, not a leopard and went back out.  Yep, this is a real reserve!

Hanging out among the bears was a mongoose.  I finally was able to get a decent photo as he wasn’t running across a road!

The visit also included spotting lots of other wildlife, photos of which I share with you below.

Last but not least, the ride in and out afforded us some beautiful views.

Lunch was at a restaurant called Mango Tree where we had the best hummus and falafel along with lemon mint juice.  It was so good we ate there again the next day!

These photos were taken while driving around Hampi.

We ended the day visiting the Malyavanta Raghunatha Temple where we could see one of the famous Hampi sunsets without climbing!  This 16^th century temple was built around a huge boulder, where Rama and Lakshmana spent the rainy season during their quest for Sita. This is an active temple where the priests live.  We sat and enjoyed the view as the red orb floated down to the horizon.  Not the best Hampi sunset, but a joy to watch and soak in the beauty around us.

This second temple, housed beyond the temple wall, is clearly older. We didn’t have any money with us so we didn’t enter this temple, nor take a photo with the boy dressed as the monkey king.

I can’t decide which of these ‘moon over temple’ photos I like more, so I am posting both!

The real end to our day, after dinner and drinks, was a lovely dip in the pool.

With mixed feelings I write about my last big trip in India, taken during our Spring Break in March.  While there will be other posts and short trips, this was my last long vacation, and it was amazing.  Some friends and I visited Hampi, Ellora Caves and Ajanta caves.  While these locations are not easy to reach, they are well worth the effort.

We flew into the closest airport and settled into the three-hour drive to the town of Hampi.  There were, of course, interesting moments along the way.  Most fascinating (no photo) was that while driving on a major highway, one could see local residents placed dung on the road to dry (!) – and yes, the drivers ensured the dung was safe and drove around the piles! 

I also loved looking at this ‘local laundromat’:

We arrived at our posh hotel. When Lynn was researching hotels, she saw one had cabanas with private pools and insisted we stay in one!  There were three of us sharing the room (I got the roll away bed since I have the CPAP machine) so the cost was quite reasonable.  It was a lot of fun being able to skinny dip and hang out by the pool in private.

Hampi is an archaeological, historical and geological wonder located on the Deccan Plateau, the third oldest plateau in the world. There were boulders everywhere, placed when the volcanic rocks would be thrown out into the air falling on top of each other creating interesting formations. The landscape is dotted with these smooth boulders that look like there were artistically placed into creative combinations.  However, these granite rocks are all natural, none of the formations have been created by man or by disasters, but rather millions of years of erosion and volcanic activity!  These photos show some of the more interesting combinations that caught my eye during our time here.

There are many myths connected with the gods of India residing in the Hampi area, including the daughter of Brahma the creator becoming betrothed to Shiva here.  Of more important value is Hampi being identified as the forest domain of the monkeys where Rama and Lakshmana arrived to find his abducted wife and met the Monkey warrior Hanuman.  Rama helped Hanuman defeat an enemy while Hanuman found where the missing wife was being held.

Of interest to me is more contemporary history. The city of Vijayanagara was established here in the 14^th century and at one time was the second largest city in the WORLD and of course was a powerful Indian state.  Fascinating is that by 1565, it was sacked and deserted.  After it was looted by the conquering moghuls it was abandoned by them as all the rocks made it hard to build a mosque facing Mecca.

The land was a great place to build an empire because it had the mountains for protection and the river for trade and transport.  There was much trade with Portugal and China so these cultures influenced architecture and culture, and remnants of pottery and other goods can still be found.

The 200 years of wealth and power of Vijayanagara can be seen in how the ruins are scattered around for miles. In the local museum, one can see a large 3D map which shows all the areas thus far excavated.  Our guide, Ravi, is one of the archaeologists working on the continued excavations. It was fascinating to learn such tidbits like they can only dig from March-April.  November through February there are too many tourists, and starting in May the rains begin.  As a matter of fact, the digging discovered during this brief period is covered up for protection in April before the rains begin.  Ravi told us scientists from China and Egypt are coming on March 13^th with the same technology used in Xi’an to uncover parts of the Terra Cotta warriors. The purpose is to scan the ground in certain areas to determine where to dig.

Our touring began at the Krishna bazaar, located across the street from the Krishna temple.  We learned that each temple had huge market place attached to it, the heart of trade and commerce.   Here Ravi was able to show us some of the more recent excavation work being done. 

This and other 16th century bazaars had two floors, with the top being for storage and the ground floor for trading. The grooves seen in the columns below were for the planks that merchants placed their wares on.

The prevalence of rocks resulted in their use for construction.  You can still these cut cubes all around, the first step in cutting a stone into smaller pieces.

The photos below are of the water tank associated with the Krishna temple and bazaar, as well as a water trough found at the road crossing from the temple to the bazaar, used by weary travelers.

Our next stop was across the small road to the Krishna Temple.  Built in 1513 this temple has some great examples of renovated and unrenovated work.

The temple has a typical layout, with a center shrine with carved columns and several smaller square structures around the four corners of the compound, all surrounded by a wall. Inside the temple, the columns show the various incarnations of Vishnu.  The entry gate was originally was 36 m tall and had seven big windows.

Here I saw my first carving of a prostrating man on the floor, which represents how one should properly venerate the idol. I have seen this behavior in temples around India even today.  There were several of these floor carvings here and in other temples around Hampi.

In the photos below you can see renovated pieces (red) of the temple.  Ravi’s friend is the one doing most of the work (funded by the World Bank).  What was fascinating to learn is that the women who sweep the temple save the rocky dust and that is used for the renovation work.  This work is a representation of the defeat of the Gajapati rulers of Orissa.  I could have spent hours looking at all the details.

Below, the temple on the left is totally renovated.  The image on the right is what it looked like before renovation.  Below that is a black and while photo of the unrestored compound.

The women sweeping the temple were taking a break and playing Indian chess. One of the women were very nervous to be photographed playing during her break because Ravi was there, who translated her worry that she would get into trouble for playing in the temple.  The other woman was thrilled to be the subject of my photos. 

Next, we walked up the road to the huge monolithic Sasivekalu Ganesha statue.  This was built in 1506 by a trader in memory of Narasimha II (1491-1505).  The pavilion surrounding Ganesha was an afterthought, not part of the original structure.  Ganesha is 2.5 meters tall and as the name indicates carved from a single rock.  Most interesting is that he is sitting on this mother’s lap.  It was hard to get a photo of the actual Ganesha due to the lighting and barricades, but the back had a great view. Sasivekalu means mustard seed in the local Kanaada language. In 2009 the women cleaning the road found the inscription detailing the story of this statue. They called the archaeologist to come see and that’s how they learned about the mustard seed story that gave the statue its name. One legend is that Ganesha’s stomach resembles a mustard seed!

While walking we passed this chart of the current excavated sites.  Ravi explained to us that they are always adding to this list. Archaeologists estimate it will take 45 yers to find all the monuments.

We continued our walk towards the Sacred Hemakuta Hill, which is dotted with shrines including the enclosure wall of the Virupaksha temple below.  Bearing in mind that we all had 3 hours of sleep, I truly was done and wasn’t going to proceed.  The guide politely said this was very interesting (and later I found out it was also because we were not returning in the same direction!).  It was WELL worth the effort as the area had stunning views of Hampi as well as presented a unique atmosphere.

I learned a lot here.  First, if you look at the pole below, this is a critical component of the temple building process.  The first item built on a proposed site, this massive column was used to see how the stone behaved.  If the land could take it, the temple building proceeded.

These structures precede the heyday of the Vijayanagara era and are the earliest structures in the area, dating from the 9^th to the 14^th centuries.  The dramatic layout, with manmade temples competing with huge, smooth boulders leaves quite an impression.  It is believed Lord Shiva meditated here.

Another fascinating tidbit I learned can be seen here.  These carvings in the wall were done by students.  They were not allowed to carve on the pillars (since most of them were part of a solid structure) so they practiced on such unimportant places until they earned the right to carve on the actual columns and temple walls.  It really struck home how you can’t make a mistake on such work!

We insisted on a stop in a cafe to rest, where mango shakes fortified us for the last stop on our tour: Virupaksha Temple, the most sacred, active temple in Hampi.  Walking towards the temple the intricate carving became clearer and clearer, when suddenly the erotic sculptures popped into my view.  Pretty graphic!  Such carvings come from the times before western influences, when love, sex and reproduction were an accepted and normal part of Hindu life.

While the centerpiece of the temple complex is the 50-meter tower, the temple was full of interesting carvings and details – including priests lounging and taking a break from the intensity within, it was getting late in the day after all!

Then one of those magical traveling moments happened.  The temple elephant was coming home.  Seeing an elephant close up is special enough, but a temple elephant is revered.  It was special to see devotes touch him for a blessing.  Of course, one could pay and get a blessing from the elephant.  It was amazing to watch – the elephant took your money, gave it to the handler and then blessed you.  Yes, I did it.

We headed back to the car as the sun was setting and projecting a golden glow on the temple.

We passed the Hampi Bazaar, which was a small street in the 1100s and expanded during the heyday of the 1400s and 1500s.  Here the second floor of the bazaar was still standing so it gave a more detailed impression than what we saw before. It is believed gems and pearls were sold here.

There was a final ending to our exhausting day as our hotel hosted an ethic drum and dance show.  We were too tired to stay for the whole event, but managed to watch some interesting moments.

This weekend I woke up at the crack of dawn and went to Thane Creek to go on a short, flamingo safari. I arrived early (well, early by Indian standards as I arrived at the requested time, 7am for the 7:30 ride) so I walked around and took these photos.

When it was time, we walked down the floating dock and almost broke some bones as the plastic squares were incredibly slippery, but we all made it without incident.

Before I head off into flamingo photo heaven, I will share some information I learned.   The Black-Winged Stilts are the first migratory birds to arrive in the area, then everyone else follows them! 

Mangrove trees have two sets of roots: one under the ground and one above.

I was beyond thrilled to finally get a photo of the bright blue Kingfisher, although the actual blue is much more vibrant that the photo shows.

Kites were kind enough to pose for me.  They are one of the few predators of flamingoes here, whose only defense is living in large groups.

The Black-Headed Ibis (also wintering here) were hard to photograph as they were in eating on the shore and were blocked by the Mangrove roots, but I was able to get one decent shot.

And now onto the flamingoes!

300,000 to 500,000 flamingos (Lesser Flamingos and Greater Flamingos) migrate here from the north for winter feeding.  They arrive white and leave pink, so it is good I came in March to see them, as a month ago they were all still white.

Thane Creek, the longest creek in Asia, became a preserve in 2019 and the cleaned water from the sewage treatment plant provides the algae and home for the shrimp that flamingos love to eat.  A win-win for mother nature.

Greater Flamingoes are taller and have a pink beak with a black spot. Lesser Flamingoes have a mostly black beak with some pink.  Their eyes are a distinct yellow but, in my photos, appear pink. 

Flamingoes are the largest bird species after the ostrich.  While these flamingoes breed in their native place, they find their mate before returning.  Flamingoes are chatty birds, with their honky-beeping sound filling the peaceful air.  Their family life is fascinating.  During the day, baby birds are all together with one or two adults watching over them. Parents come in the evening for family time, and they recognize their child by sound. 

To fly, these majestic birds need a running start and while doing so expose the bright black and pink feathers under their wings. Of all I saw, this sight fascinated me the most.

Little Stint birds sharing the buffet with the flamingos:

It was hard to believe I was in the middle of loud and crowded Mumbai it was so peaceful here, although through the mist I could see the tall buildings.

And now my favorite flamingo photos!

The ride itself lasted only an hour but felt like three and was worth it. Since Ubers couldn’t find the remote location, I started the 3km walk back to the entrance when a kind couple picked me up and dropped me off at the turnoff from the highway – a tiny dirt road with a hidden painting of a flamingo.  While waiting for my ride, I saw 4 cars pass the turn off, quickly stop and back up!

Two Wednesdays ago, my friend Shraddha and I flew to Delhi for the wedding of the Early Years secretary.  We left at 6am and took the 2am return flight home.   The reception was in the evening, so we had the day to explore.  Zeeshan joined us for some fun sightseeing.

I will start this entry with the wonderful art we saw exhibited at our Mumbai airport gate.

We arrived and were met with garlands from the driver hired by Zeeshan.

Once we arrived in Delhi, we headed to Shraddha’s friends’ house.  We were treated to a yummy breakfast with parathas and many other delicacies.  Then we were off for a day of exploring!

Our first stop was Humayun’s Tomb Complex, a World Heritage Site with quite a few tombs dispersed around.  At the entrance to the compound is the Sabz Burj, a mosque that was recently restored and would have been for the member of the royal household.

The first tomb we visited was Isa Khan’s mausoleum.  The aerial photo provided shows how grand it was, and he wasn’t even an emperor but rather a noble in the court of Sher Shah Sur.  He built it in his lifetime, and it even includes a mosque.  He was an Afghani Pashtun, a group that dominated the area during this time.  He died in 1548 at the age of 98!  The tomb had major restoration work that started in 2011, while the overall complex restoration started in 2000 and 2003, funded by the Aga Khan Foundation for Culture and the Archaeology Survey of India.

Next we walked towards the next landmark, passing the West Gate, a striking entrance to the main tomb.

Entering the mausoleum required climbing up some very steep stairs, which made me think it was one way to keep invaders out!  This tomb, built 20 years after the one we just saw, is known as the Taj Mahal of Delhi because it was built by the widow of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor of India about whom very little is known.  The widow, Biga Begum (Hajji Begum), had it built 14 years after his death, at a cost of 1.5 million rupees. I cannot help but wonder why she waited and what court intrigues were at play! It is the first mausoleum built in the Mughal style within India and is heavily influenced by Persian traditions.

The Persian/Mughal garden mausoleum style needs water sources, plus everything must be symmetrical.  That is why you will find such tombs near rivers.  While the original river is long gone, the pools and waterways have recently been restored.  As we walked the grounds and looked at the smaller mausoleum below, we were able to get a sense of the garden atmosphere.  Many Delhi residents come to enjoy the park.

As we drove to the next location we passed the government zone, which gave a sense of DC with these mammoth buildings to house the bureaucracy of a large government.  Not a pleasant drive with its traffic and blocked roads.  Hence, Delhi is not a favorite city of mine.  By the way, Delhi is actually many cities merged together. That is why you read about New Delhi, Old Delhi…and there are other names. Lastly, like Washington, DC, Delhi not a state but rather a federal government-controlled district. 

The drive took us to Old Delhi and a street called Chandi Chowk where no cars are allowed.  Located here are markets: spice and fabric to name a few.  And LOT of people watching.  But first on the agenda was lunch.  Zeeshan took us to a vegetarian Paratha place, you know, the kind that has no décor but amazing food.  There was every kind of paratha imaginable. We sampled potato and onion, mixed vegetable, cauliflower, paneer, dhal, and ended with sugar (usually for kids…my dessert of course!).  My favorite was the cauliflower. 

The passage ways were wonderfully cramped, and Shraddha shared that many people from Mumbai come here to buy clothes and fabric for weddings.

If one looks closely behind the plethora of shops, people, wires, advertisement, and items for sale – you can see the framework of architecture that was once quite beautiful.

This street is full of people walking, shopping, lounging and even sleeping!

Next we walked towards the spice market. I don’t need to buy spices nor is such a location a new experience for me, but ohhh-the photographic possibilities had me frantic!

Interesting was that as we went deeper into the passageways of the spice market, we clearly entered the wholesale section of the market where everyone was coughing from the large amounts of spice dust in the air. I was intrigued by the men who carried large bags of spices, their faces intently focused on balancing the bag and watching where they were going. It was interesting to learn from Zeeshan that even though there are no spices grown in this area, all the spices are shipped here because it’s easy to distribute to the whole county from Delhi.

Located at the deepest depth of the market is this tower, where if you climb it there is an amazing view.

Next was a long bike ride to our next location (our driver got a large tip since there were two of us in the bike and I am not the thinnest beanpole around; Zeeshan was in a separate bike).  Wonderful people watching as we rode through the narrow streets and watched life go on around us.  Being India, even on the bikes-only street there was traffic!  The traffic continued as we wove our way through narrow streets towards the Mosque.

We arrived at Jama Masjid (translated into Friday Mosque), Delhi’s principal mosque.  It was built between 1650-56 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who also built the Taj Mahal and the nearby Red Fort.  We climbed the steep staircase up to the compound, which affords a commanding view of the surrounding area.  I imagine years ago it was the centerpiece of the skyline.

In one of the archways, you see the names of all the Imams who presided over the mosque.  Currently it is the 14^th Imam.  The first Imam was from Bukhara, currently in Uzbekistan.

As large and commanding the building is, the actual prayer space is narrow.  Therefore, for Friday prayers many worshippers pray outside.  You can see these poles are erected outside, for awnings to protect from the heat and rain.

There is a direct line from the Red Fort (where the emperor would have lived) to the mosque.  Between is a street there was a market so after Friday services, families could do their shopping.  A vibrant market to this day.

Throughout the day there were many moments I was able to capture with my camera, as well as the requisite street art, all in the form of murals.  The new tunnel was especially colorful.

Street shopping at night?  Not a problem in Delhi!

Then it was time to return to our starting point to nap and get ready for the wedding.  We took the necessary selfie and said our goodbyes to Zeeshan.  When it was time to go to the weeding, we took a selfie with Shraddha’s friends as well.

Of course, I cannot leave you without a few photos of Priyanka and her special day!

I was happy to know that Shraddha was impressed with Zeeshan’s knowledge of Indian history. Should you wish to explore India, here is Zeeshan’s contact information: zeeshanbaba_taj@hotmail.com