Tatz's Travels Around the World

During the last months of school, along with all the goodbye events, I traveled all over the world – literally.  I flew to Seoul, Korea to chair a school’s mid-term reaccreditation visit.  I flew to Tashkent, Uzbekistan for a job interview. I flew to San Francisco for a dear friend’s funeral.  And I flew to China to close out my account and ensure my money would be transferred to the US.  Each of those short visits had some nice photos and moments associated with them.  When did I have all the time for this?  Well, these were all 24 or 48-hour whirlwind excursions where I made sure I stayed hydrated and slept as much as I could.

In Tashkent, the fruit trees were in full bloom.

During this visit to San Francisco I saw the green hills (due to the rains) so I am sharing two photos of the same view: during the dry and wet seasons.

Parts of the AIDS quilt was also on display in the SF airport.

In Seoul I got to eat my first Korean BBQ!

There were fun statues near the hotel as well!

On one of my flights to Guangzhou I had the row to myself and therefore was able to take these photos!

In China I was struck at how different it was from India: smooth roads, no honking, overall quiet (especially in all the electric Ubers), clean and the tall modern architecture I so loved looking at when I lived here (as well as the night skyline with its lights).  Then there was the robot who delivered my package to the hotel room! However, there was a squat toilet to put me in my place and remind me things are not always as they seem!

I was able to see my friends and visit my two favorite restaurants: Bandidos (awesome Mexican food – sorry no photos) and Din Tai Fung where I treated my church friends: soul-calming and re-energizing.

Of course, the purpose of my visit was the bank.  It took 4 (!) hours and more name signing than for a mortgage in the US, but the deed was done.  To celebrate I went to the leather market and bought authentic purses (one for Sophia, one for me and one to share with her) at rock bottom prices (direct from the factory).

The ride to the airport afforded me a last look at the lush forests of South East China.

Since I was too early to check in, I treated myself to KFC without the fear of it being too spicy!

And when I returned to Mumbai, I got to enjoy my last view of the artwork at the international arrivals’ baggage claim,

One of the hardest parts of leaving India was saying goodbye to dear friends.  Of course, being India and being me, the good byes were a lot of fun!

[For those of you just interested in my artistic photos, scroll to the end!]

Bhargavi, Lynn and I (along with another friend of Bhargavi’s) went to the grand Taj Hotel for High Tea.  Yummy food, glorious ambience, exceptional service and lots of laughs.  A special way to say goodbye for sure. Aside from the buffet, we ordered scones with clotted cream and jam, in honor of the ethos of high tea.

Another group of friends, Jonathan, Shraddha, Oyndrilla and I, went to the Sula winery for the weekend.  In the tradition of Napa Valley, Sula has created a lovely park-like atmosphere with a top-notch hotel and excellent restaurants connected with this winery.  Needless to say, we had a blast!

The hotel was outfitted beautifully.  Our room was lovely with a stunning nature view and free half bottle of wine. When we arrived late at night, we had some snacks and a bottle of sparkling wine.  As the night wore on, focusing seemed to be more of a challenge when taking photos!

I LOVED that the rooms were named after wines, rather than only numbers.

The lobby had this elephant called Gopi by the artist Kalyan Joshi.  It was created in the tradition of phad painting (which normally told stories about kings and elephants).  This piece was a part of The Elephant Parade, one of the world’s largest art exhibits, and was bought at an action by the vineyard.  The proceeds of this auction supported the conservation and welfare of Asian Elephants.  While researching for this blog post, I learned these parades happen all over the world.  Be sure to keep an eye out for a parade near you!

Outside the restaurant, the decor reminded me of villages in Italy and Provence, France.

The next day saw us take a tour of the winery…which was disappointing.  First, there was the guide who used a microphone and truly, we could not understand a word she said.  I thought maybe it was her accent.  I thought maybe it was my 65 year old hearing…but no.  Even young Jonathan, and alert Shraddha and Oyndrilla couldn’t understand a word. 

That said, seeing the metal vats with their temperature-controlled aging was fascinating.  As was smelling the oaky wine smell in the barrel room. I was also in awe of how high the barrels were stored, making full use of limited space.

After the tour there was the wine tasting with no water to rinse your mouth.  The usual ‘worst wines first’ pattern ensued.  The higher end Sula wines are quite good, the others as expected.  All quite drinkable.

What I found most interesting was the sign on the wall. Since most Indians do not drink it is nice to know they drink here first. 

After the tour we had a lot of fun walking around the compound and taking photos at all the spots clearly created for selfies. We made to try every possible pose, every combination of people, and all viable locations.

Most of the weekend was spent lounging around, chatting, laughing and enjoying the scenery.  My camera captured a lot of those moments.

Of course, with all the flowers and nature around, I enjoyed taking photos. Here are my favorites.

Along with flora there was fauna. I had a lot of fun watching the large, black bird which I just learned is a Red Naped Ibis (thanks to Deepa’s husband).

And I don’t remember the name of this bird!

One of the aspects of living in India I will miss most are the kind, friendly and hard working staff of the school. The appreciation was mutual as I was invited to wedding events. Ishita, who had the thankless job of manning the elevator and keeping secondary students from riding on it, invited me to her wedding. I was not in town for the final wedding ceremony but was able to attend one of the events: her haldi ceremony.

As many of you know, Indian weddings are big events with many ceremonies.  The invitation to an Indian wedding is equally big!  On the photos below, the invitation to Ishita’s wedding, you get a sense of the scale!

Page 1: the cover

Page 2: lists the name of the bride and groom, as well as the days and times for all the services.

Page 3: lists who is inviting you to join in the celebration:  THE ENTIRE extended family!

The Haldi ceremony, held shortly before the wedding (from a week to the night before) happens simultaneously at the bride and grooms’ homes.  The henna is already on the bride’s hands and feet; the hair is already coiffed to perfection.  The next bridal outfit is on.  At this ceremony (after some great dancing, snacks and food) everyone puts paste with mostly turmeric with sandalwood, rosewater (sometimes milk) and some oils on her body.  Why these ingredients?    Well, wise men centuries ago knew what the body needed! Turmeric: great for its antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.  Takes care of any skin issues the bride and groom might have.  Sandalwood is known for its cooling and calming properties (very much needed before a wedding).  Officially this is believed to purify the couple, cleanse their skin and leave them with a radiant glow for the wedding day.  Science and religion meet again!

I hope the joy of this community and their celebration comes through in these photos.

Next event during the whirlwind that was the end of my time in India, was my sister Alex (Alexandra) visiting me.  There isn’t much to say about her time with me other than we had the BEST time and I got to see Agra for the 3^rd time.  I thought this post would mostly be photos from our time together, but I learned even more about India during this week. And then, there were the amazing meals we had together.

Our weekend trip to Agra gave Alex a change to meet Zeeshan, which was nice as they became the best of friends.  Our first stop was the Agra Fort, one of my favorite spots in Agra. This fort (what we would call a palace) was where all the early Mughal emperors lived.  Of the original 500 structures that were in the compound, only 30 remain.  Some were destroyed by previous rulers but most damage was done by the British to create barracks. Some of the fort is open to the public but much is not because it is still an active military complex used by the Indian army.

All forts in India were protected, but the Agra Fort was the most fortified of its time. Agra Fort boasted a moat (the crocodiles used to walk the perimeter) and other methods of defense.  For example, if you made it past the moat and the archers guarding the gate, you would head up a road.  There you would be met with boulders of various sizes rolling down to greet you. If you managed to survive the rocks, boiling oil would start pouring out of the walls on both sides of you and guards would shoot flaming arrows – just in case you found a way to tolerate your blistering, slippery skate. As we walk, we see the chutes jutting out and the charred remnants of blazing oil on the brick walls. 

Here you also find an example of royal opulence: Jahanghir’s bathtub, which is made of solid stone and is 5 feet high and 8 feet in diameter.  A little too big for me, but don’t worry, it was not originally in the middle of the courtyard! I forget the weight but it is significant… and Jahanghir insisted it be brought along on all of his travels and battles.

After passing through some of the main gates, one gets to the reception hall where the emperor met with petitioners and where the décor changes from the red stone to white marble. The open-air hall has stunning symmetrical columns with the center of the hall being where the big guy sat, surrounded by stunning inlay and resting above all the mere mortals meeting with him.

Next you enter the living quarters. Below is a mosque that was used by the women of the harem.

This courtyard below, used for entertainment, was also where the romance story of the century happened.  All of us know the story of the Taj Mahal and how the surviving emperor built the mausoleum for the love of his life.  They met here.  One of the entertainments here was a bazaar for the women, where only women vendors came to sell items and the royal ladies would shop.  Shah Jahan (who was 15 at the time) was smitten with Arjumand Banu Begum (aged 14).  They were betrothed and married 5 years later.  She was his third wife, but his constant companion (even to battle) and confidant.  They had 14 children together.

However, his life ended sadly.  His son, upset at how much money was being spent to build the Taj Mahal (also, I imagine, to help solidify his place on the throne), banished him to Agra Fort where he could not visit the tomb of his wife but could stare at the monument all day (surrounded by the diamond and precious stone fixed in the wall).  I think his son was strongly influenced by his mother whose beginnings were humbler than a usual empress (although he beat his three brothers in the wars of succession).  The son, Aurangzeb, did live simply and frugally.  As emperor, he insisted on earning his own livelihood through manual labor (he copied the Koran and knitted prayer caps), reflecting his devout adherence to Islamic principles.  I visited his simple gravesite when at the Ajanta caves, if you remember that blog post.

Can you imagine living your life surrounded by inlaid walls with precious and semi-precious stones?  Makes our homes with wallpaper or paint seem so plain. Enjoy the ambiance as I share my photos.

In one of the rooms, if you stand in one corner and someone else stands in the corner across and whispers, you can hear the words clearly!

This is an amazing optical illusion.  When you stand across the courtyard and look at the Taj in the distance, it looks big! 

Next was one of those special moments one has when traveling.  I got to meet Zeeshan’s mother!  While she didn’t speak English, she communicated much through her warm eyes and smile.  Her plan for the afternoon: shopping!  Alex wanted a kurta (and I always want another kurta) so off we went.  Driving through the back streets of Agra gave us a glimpse of life behind the historic sights and gave us the experience of how Indians shop for clothes.  We entered the shop, surrounded by piles of colors.  We sat on the floor and the salesmen started bringing us beautiful clothes to look at.  No trying on, they just know your size!  Near us a family was shopping for their daughter’s wedding so stunning, bejeweled clothes were being brought for them.  By the end, we were surrounded by piles, chose our outfits and were surprised that Zeeshan’s mother paid for all of them.  On the way back in the tuk tuk, the traffic was so bad we got out and walked!

After the joyful shopping we went to the tomb of I’Timad-Ud-Daulah, built between 1622-28.  This is the tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and other family members, who came from Iran to serve as a minister to Akbar (he was an exiled amir rising in prominence in the court).  The patriarch of the family buried here was the grandfather of the famous Mumtaz Mahal, in whose memory the Taj Mahal was built.  Aside from being beautiful, this building is famous for being the first building made from marble, marking the transition from using red sandstone. It is considered the forerunner of the grand Taj Mahal. The evening light cast a lovely yellow glow to the marble.

The outer building, still in red sandstone, presented a noble entrance.

The reason for the existence of this tomb has an interesting story  It was commissioned by the daughter, Mehr-un-Nissa (Nur Jasan), who after being widowed made the political decision to marry Jahangir, the 4^th Mughal emperor who was long infatuated with her.   She was a powerful and influential woman, considered by some historians to be the real power behind the Mughal throne during Jahangir’s reign. She was granted unprecedented privileges, including having her name on coins. Her influence stemmed from her intelligence, administrative skills, and Jahangir’s fondness for her, as well as his reliance on her due to his addiction to opium and alcohol.  In ‘honor’ of this, when she built this mausoleum she included many pictures of wine bottles, probably to pay respects to the reason why she could wield the power she did.   Also of note, she made many contributions to Mughal architecture, the arts, and made efforts to improve the lives of women through education and charitable works. 

I think the beauty of the tomb is clearly a testament to her sense of style. The building has a cozy intimacy while simultaneously presenting itself as magnificent.

Here are some examples of the wine bottle decor.

Along with the outer beauty, the inside was stunning.  The two initial rooms still remain in my memory as some of the most beautiful wall décor I have ever seen. The rooms have a harmony within the details, even though the rooms are small and heavily decorated.

The details and decorations seen in my photos, whether renovated or rotting, show you the rest of my impressions.

Below you will notice, there is a lovely garden.  The purpose of these gardens in Mughul architecture is to exemplify paradise (before the British changed them to more European flower gardens) and followed a religious pattern.  The quadrilateral garden design was divided by walkways or flowing water into four smaller sections. This layout is inspired by the Islamic concept of paradise, described in the Quran as a garden with four rivers. Carefully chosen flowers and plants, such as cypress trees (representing death) and fruit trees (symbolizing life and rebirth), were used to enhance the garden’s symbolism. Well thought out, you could walk amongst the trees and shrubs as well as walk above them, allowing visitors to enjoy nature as well as pluck fruit from the top or bottom of the trees!

I end my photos of our visit to this magnificent location by sharing images of the key players.

What was new for me this time in Agra was looking at the Taj from across the river, a unique perspective.  We ended our day stopping here for the photo opportunity.  Originally, Shah Jahan was to build a black Taj across the river, but the son refused to use treasury money for that. You can see the ruins of the foundation here.

Sunday morning brought us to the Taj, done in style as we rented saris for the occasion.  This was my third time seeing this architectural marvel, Alex’s first.  It is always fun to see how people react to seeing the Taj for the first time. 

One of the amazing aspects of the Taj is that absolutely everything is 100% symmetrical, down to the tiniest detail – except for the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal’s husband.  Since the son refused to use treasury money for building the Black Taj, he buried his father next to his beloved, and he subsequently became the lone asymmetrical element of the Taj.

Some unofficial photos inside the tomb.

Wearing saris at the Taj Mahal demands taking many photos: some fun, some serious.

Next up were the requisite stops at shops: jewelry and marble inlay aka the Taj.  What made these visits special was that my sister had saved up to buy a ring and a piece for above her bed.  It was great to watch her design what she wanted and have it shipped to the US. I include a photo of the finished pieces!

In the marble shop we saw how the art is made, a tradition that remains the same since the times the Taj was built.  The stone can be ground down by artisan experts to the thinnest of slices.  We also saw the various stones from which the shapes are created.

Creating the design:

The finished product:

My sister’s ring is an opal (her birthstone) surrounded by sapphires (her favorite stone).  Being India, these pieces were quite affordable.  For me, it was a unique experience to be shopping with someone who spent more than me!

No photos of the designing in process, but here is the finished product:

Our last stop was to see elephants at the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre outside of Agra.  The elephant I fell in love with was old and tired, I am so glad she is ending her life being cared for.

Interesting factoids about elephants:

1. An elephant’s trunk has over 40,000 muscles
2. Elephants have the largest brain of any mammal on earth.  Certainly more than many humans!
3. Male (bull) elephants prefer a solitary life but will occasionally form bachelor herds.
4. Female elephants love the group life.
5. Elephants use their trunks as a snorkel to breathe when they are underwater.
6. Elephants use dust baths and mud as natural sunscreen.  I will stick Coppertone.
7. Tusks are teeth that extend beyond the mouth.  They re-grow if broken or damaged.
8. Elephants eat 200kg of food every day, which is 5% of their bodyweight.
9. When elephants flap their ears they are regulating their body temperature or are stressed.

Next are some people photos I took while we were in Agra.

Two more examples of Indian packing expertise.

As you all know, I have seen a lot of street art in India and have shared it with you.  Without a doubt, Agra has the most amazing array of street art.  Most noticeable are the painted columns under the metro, painted for the G20 visit several years ago.

We returned to Mumbai, and I spent the week working while Alex explored Mumbai and its surroundings.  Thursday evening, we headed to South Mumbai where we had pre-dinner drinks at the Taj Hotel (we were too early for dinner which starts after 7). Then we headed to my favorite restaurant, The Table.  We had the best time eating, drinking, and laughing with our waiter who gave us a complementary dessert with a lovely card.  The food and drinks, as always, were exquisite.   The ambiance of our table in the corner was the finishing touch.

The Harbor Bar at the Taj is a small and cozy space, with lovely artwork and plaques mentioning historical information associated with the bar.

Friday took us to Dharavi in the morning and the experience of Masque at night. 

First, a few photos from our walking tour:

Masque, one of the top 50 restaurants in all of Asia, has a 10-course tasting menu that marries traditional Indian cuisine with innovations inspired by influences from around the world.  The meal has a wine pairing component as well, along with interesting cocktails.

We started with refreshing cocktails as the heat got to us today.  Then the meal began with us enjoying the interactions with the sommelier as he presented the accompanying wines.  It was so fun experiencing this meal with my sister, who is a chef, and seeing her experience this unique cuisine – especially when we got to visit the kitchen for an intermezzo.  For some reason (it might have something to do with the wine), the last courses don’t seem to have photos accompanying them.

Saturday, my sister’s last day started slowly with a quiet morning in the apartment.  Then we headed back down to South Mumbai for a final visit to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharah Vastu Sangrahalaya Museum, formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum – which is much easier to pronounce and remember.  I love this museum and made sure to relish my last visit here.  Should you ever find yourself in Mumbai, this is a must visit.  What made the visit more special was it has recently been renovated so along with my favorite spots there were new exhibits, along with the temporary ones I had not yet seen.

A best moment was being given a tour of the exhibit honoring the cultural traditional of folk and tribal art by a lovely docent. 

The regular display of the development of the textile industry in India was revamped to include videos of generational artisans at work.  I connected with some of the artisans’ quotes that were projected:

“thread is a pathway, a line to follow through the passage of life”

“if you are troubled by mundane thoughts you cannot do this work”

“cloth is our second skin, our first home out of the womb”

“like a mother, cotton is a gift from nature, pure comfort”

“cloth swells with movement to the fullness of life”

I always enjoy looking at stone carvings.

Indian miniature paining is full of intricate details.  Some of the painting use gold paint which further enhances the scenes of royal splendor.

Then there are the pieces that just caught my eye.

After the museum, I decide my sister had to try fresh sugar cane juice!

We then decided another meal at The Table was in order for lunch, as it was a short walk from the museum.  The lunch menu was different and equally delicious. 

The rides to and from home allowed me to take a few, last photos of South Mumbai.

Rishekesh was my next adventure, a long weekend at the end of March that saw me travel to this holy town where the mighty Ganges begins – well it begins in the mountains nearby.  Like the city of Varanasi, this city is full of pilgrims.  Being near the mountains and forests, it is also a nature haven.  I was hoping for a restful weekend but ended up at a hotel smack dab in the middle of downtown, full of honking and traffic.  I switched hotels which turned out to be an exercise in frustration as no one wanted to drive me because of the traffic, and they couldn’t figure out the location.  I ended up on a motorcycle gripping my suitcase for dear life.  However, I made it safely to a lovely little hotel where I got the only room left – the family suite!

It took me a while to adjust my expectations from a weekend surrounded by nature to a weekend in another, typical Indian town. I decided to make the most of it and went for a walk to the river, which was very near my hotel.  That lovely walk saved the day with great people watching, which meant great photo opportunities. 

Unlike in Varanasi, here cremations can happen anywhere along the river.

These two birds helped make the walk feel a little closer to nature. I enjoyed having the time to stand there for a long time to get a good shot.

Downtown Rishikesh had lots of tourist shops and restaurants.

The next set of photos are of the people I saw working while I was walking around town.

Next are random photos of street views, people living their lives or hanging out.

Being a holy city, the cows ruled the roads – and robed pilgrims, holy men and quasi-holy men abounded.

I also made the decision that vodka was necessary for this weekend and had to take a tuktuk to a neighboring, non-dry town.  That was a fun adventure as well, trying to communicate my needs to people who do not speak English. The mission was successful, along with some photos along the way.

I wasn’t planning to visit the evening Ganges River aarti ceremony, but since it was so close to my hotel I decided to go.  The service is in front of an ashram and exactly at 6:30pm a man with billowing white robes runs out of the Ashram towards the aarti space.  Clearly, the big wig because as soon as he arrives, things begin.  He goes to the river to cleanse himself and prepare for the ceremony.  He is surrounded by cameras and young acolytes, along a younger man, who looks like Jesus, and stands next to him.  He is clearly the number 2 man.  He ensures things run smoothly.

The men performing the rituals here are considerably younger than those in Varanasi and the music is more beautiful.  There is also a group of red-robed women who are either widows or volunteers staying at the ashram.

Here, the sacred flame is shared with all participating in and observing the service, with the women in red rotating the flame like the young ‘performers’.  Of course, there is the requisite selling of flowers and other supplies. Some things are the same in churches is all over the world!

The next day saw me hiring a guide to visit Hardivar.  The neighborhood mafia don who arranged the tour, told me he was busy but the driver would take me.  Sure, I say, but then as we drive off, I find out the driver doesn’t speak English!  Anyway, the two of us made the best of this hilarious situation.

In Hardivar, which is a very holy city, we passed a street full of amusement park style buildings that were either temples or fun zones….too bad the driver couldn’t tell me (well he said something but I have no idea what he said)!  The best part was putting my feel into the Ganges (too cold to swim even though I had my bathing suit with me this weekend).  Of course, I enjoyed looking at those on poojas as well as looking at life happening and taking photos of my impressions.

I will start with the street with bizarre buildings.

The driver was into the fresh strawberries that just came into season and stopped a few times to buy some for us.  The first set had masala sprinkled on it, the second time I said I like my strawberries ‘straight up’.

Next, my photos of the town of Hardivar.

Our stop at the river was in a riverside temple with sections for believers to place their offerings.  There was a mom with a son and his shaved head doing some sort of a ritual where he was dunked several times.  There were two young men placing key items into a wrapped ball and placing it onto the river.  There was a man with his children cleaning the river, collecting items floating down from upriver.  I loved putting my feet into the clean, fast flowing river.

My final day was the best.  It started with a walk in the hotel neighborhood where I saw many street vendors heading off for their work day.   The day ended with visiting the Beatles Ashram.

The best part of the whole weekend was visiting what is known as the Beatles Ashram.  I hired a driver and the ride took about 30 minutes on narrow, winding roads. Quite beautiful.

Funny though, when we arrived and since the ashram opens at 10 and we arrived at 9:45, I had the pleasure of walking down to the river only to discover that the Ashram is directly across the river from my hotel!

On the river I was able to see a jetty of rocks along the holy Ganges, with river squatters and their tents living a hard life next to Nirvana. I enjoyed walking along the soft, fine sand and taking some photos.

While the ashram is now deserted and resides in a tiger reserve forest, it was opened to the public as a tourist attraction in 2015. I learned that since I have a PAN (tax) card and am a senior citizen, I was able to pay 100 rupees instead of 1200 (I wish I knew that over the past three years!)!  The Ashram was the International Academy of Meditation, where Maharashi Mahesh Yogi, who developed the Transcendental Meditation technique, trained people.   Throughout my time here I was struck how this compound is a modern archaeological ruin.

The first thing one notices upon entering the compound are the meditation caves. Situated on a hill close to the river with the sound of rushing water, these chambers must have been very inspiring. They were built between 1977-78 using stones from the Ganges River nearby and were used by religious ascetics and celibate Hindu monks for their daily rituals and meditations.

One then enters the main compound with a map to guide your way.  The rest of the building exteriors were not as well preserved as the meditation caves.

At its peak, the ashram had well over 500 guests and was a vibrant community, with its own post office and printing press.

This was the kitchen where over 500 vegetarian meals were served daily.

The tree lined road had smaller residences built in the 1970s for those training to be TM teachers or participating in other advanced courses.

There were two large halls for lectures, the newer one also had meditation chambers underground.

This was probably the dormitory for ‘normal’ people.

Based on the number of rooms and location, I’m guessing this building was the Beatles’ cabin, although it’s not identified as such.

Since this Ashram was made famous when the Beatles visited, there is a photo gallery from this trip, as well as other celebrities (Mia Farrow and David Lynch) who were devotees.  Included in the display were lyrics inspired by meditation written by the Beatles, Donovan, and Stevie Wonder – as well information on meditation and the guru.

The best location was saved for the Maharishi’s house, a large imposing structure overlooking the river.

The best part of this visit, without a doubt, was all the street art.  It ranged from simple to exquisite.  Imagine walking through a museum inside a park and you will understand how soul filling walking here was for me.

I end this blog post with the photos of men lugging their cargo, witnessed as I rode to and from the airport.  Also, I want to share all the photos of religious buildings in the city, quite varied and beautiful.  Lastly, local street art which mostly centered on Shiva (Rishekesh is known as the city of Shiva).

The last day of spring break was visiting the Ajanta caves.  While the Ellora caves are more renowned for their carvings, Ajanta caves have many preserved frescos. Their preservation is mainly due to the remote location of the caves, with no civilization nearby to ruin the art work. The caves were only re-discovered in 1819 by British hunters who were following a tiger. As a matter of fact, the area is still remote enough that tigers still roam the region.  Built between 200 BC and 7^th century AD, these caves were a sanctuary for Buddhist monks during the monsoon season and contain monasteries for those wishing to remove themselves from civilization and devote themselves to prayer.

The drive to the caves is a long one, which is why they are not usually found on the typical ‘visiting India itinerary’, but boy are they worth the effort.  During the 2 ½ hour drive there were some fun scenes, especially people ‘playing’ Holi (the term for throwing dye and water during this joyful festival) and non-veg Indians lining up at various roadside butcher stalls for meat.  It was interesting to see it was the men doing the buying, probably because the women were home getting ready for the feast.  Included in the scenes were many colorful temples and worshippers engaged in processions with their idols.

I was enamored by the shape of the haystacks.  One day I need to have a blog post just showing all the different ways hay is gathered around the world.

Arriving at the Ajanta caves meant switching to a local bus that reminded me of the children’s story ‘The Little Engine That Could’ because with its grinding motor slowly trudging up the hill and through the dense forest, I wasn’t sure we were going to make it.  But make it we did and after paying our entrance fee and securing a guide, we started our walk to the caves. 

The 30 caves (15 completed and 15 not completed) are perched on a cliff, a horseshoe overlooking the Wag River which was dry now but during monsoon season the bridge we crossed is underwater! 

Like at the Ellora Caves, when it is monsoon season the rock overhangs create shelter and a waterfall of beauty for those inside.

The various caves were not planned in any particular order, but rather sprang up (or rather carved in) as the desire or need arouse through various periods of time.  The earliest cave (Cave 10) dates from 2^nd century BC.  A second wave of building occurred 400 years later under the support of the Gupta imperial families, after which the focus on building Buddhist caves to spread Buddhism, declined. However, enough background!  Time to explore the caves, which we did starting with cave 26 and working our way back.

We entered our first cave, number 26, with its ornate carvings and reclining Buddha.  The vaulted ceilings were reminiscent of what we saw in Ellora but this cave is more ornate and had a warm feeling to it. There were carvings depicting scenes from Buddha’s life, including his temptation by the demon Mara.

The next cave, 24, is an unfinished monastery, so we were able to enter with our shoes on.  It gave us a clue about the frescoes to come.

Then there was cave 21, a finished monastery, and again I thought these were amazing cave frescoes.

Cave 17 is considered one of the most perfect examples of Buddhist rock-cut architecture of the late 5^th Century AD, with sound proportions and lack of wood details (although the ceiling was carvings to mimic wood).  During this era, Buddha began to be positioned on a votive stupa.

The interesting details on the painted ceiling were charming. The wings and halos made me think of Orthodox iconography, which probably took inspiration from this style as Byzantium started 100 or so years after this cave was built.

My favorite photo from this cave:

Then we entered cave 17 and it all became clear what Ajanta’s legend is all about. UNBELIEVABLE.  Cave 17 has the greatest number of preserved murals, and the guidebook talks about several of the masterpieces one can see here.  Built between 475-500AD during what is known as the Vakata Age, the cave is protected with air conditioning (less powerful than originally used as it damaged the paint) and the cave is shaded from the midday sun with an awning.  Everything is being done to maintain the beauty of the cave, which is left for us to image what all the other caves must have looked like before being destroyed by time and human interference.

The columns are rather simple compared to the rest of the caves, but I felt they complemented and balanced the beauty of the painting. They were, of course, necessary to support the ceiling.

The painted ceilings along the side of the temple really were what connected the whole space and elevated the space.

What also struck me about the painted walls is how similar they looked to what has been excavated at Pompeii, which was 400 years earlier.  I saw the same red paint being used and felt the same sense of painted walls decorating a room like wallpaper today.

This is my favorite photo from this cave:

Cave 16 gives us a good idea of how these caves were monasteries.  The center room (the meditation chamber) is large and faces a giant Buddha.  Surrounding the room are the monk’s cells which were actually cozy and inspired meditation, I really felt a sense of peace while sitting in the cell.

There is an inscription at the base of the cave that states this was a gift from Varahadeva, a minister of Vakataka King Harisena (475-500 AD).  The pillars, once painted, are simple symbols of stability.

Cave 10 is the oldest cave, built in the 2^nd century BC.  It is most famous for its early examples of Indian painting. There are places where newer painting covered older work, but I couldn’t tell where the 4th century additions were. The painting are all depictions of Buddha in various stages of his life. There was a large stupa in the center of the hall, and the ceiling was not as formal as newer caves – clearly the technology did not yet exist.

Cave 9 was similar to 10 inside, although less artwork has survived on the walls.  However, it’s outside façade was quite large and elegant.  It is visible from far away and is a center point that one’s eye wanders to. It was the second cave discovered.

Cave number four was next and was meant to be the largest but was never finished. There are 28 pillars surrounding the room, but  I really noticed the incredible acoustics of the caves here, as I was not distracted by the artwork.  The Buddha’s location and setting are typical however it looked like the statue was made of wood.  The unfinished ceiling was also intriguing – did they run out of time or money- or did they know the cave would fall in if they continued carving?  Either way, it was fascinating to see how they inched away the rock.

Here are my favorite photos from this cave.

Cave 2 was also an experience of loveliness and awe.  Built in 6-7^th centuries AD, it is one of the best caves in Ajanta and has extensive paintings all around.  The round circle designs on the ceiling are some of the finest examples as they retain their contrasting colors, brightness and luster.  The room is filled with images of Buddha, a room dedicated to the importance of his life as a role model.

The loveliness of the cave started even before we entered, as the outer doorway retained some of the paintings.

My favorite photo from the outside of cave 2:

Upon entering the cave, you don’t know where to look as your eye is drawn to so many of the details.  However, the overall sense of the cave is coziness as a result of these details. To start with, the two photos below show the difference exposure on the camera makes!

This photo shows how both the walls and the ceiling were ornately decorated.

But let’s not forget the purpose of this hall was to honor Buddha, and his statue in the teaching pose did not get lost among all the artwork.

The last cave, Cave 1, had a lightness to it, more so than the other caves.

A highlight of the visit to Ajanta Caves was seeing unfinished caves.  It was amazing to see how the process unfolded.  Again, I marveled at the talents and engineering skills of these ancient devotees.

Looking at these two columns, you can get a sense of how they started with the simple shape and then added the decorations.

Here are some random photos I took while we were exploring the caves.

The elephant with the layers is original while the other elephant is not. It was renovated 10 years ago.

There was a Tibetan monk tour group wandering around, making for a great photo opportunity.

Walking through the caves was only 7000 steps, but 50 (or it seemed) flights of stairs.  Since we were returning to the car park the other way – which was ALL stairs,  my knees had enough so I paid the ₹2000 for the chair ride down.  $20 well spent!

Three-hour drive to and from the caves resulted in some great Indian life photos.

There was plenty of farmland.

We passed even more poojas happening.

Two reasons for covering your heads!

This road word was interesting, as they were covering the cement with wet sacs to prevent something, but I don’t remember that the driver told me!

There was some unique street art, the local government obviously funded an artist who was into scenic views and classical styles.

More traditional street art had a different flair as well.

Last but not least, I found the photos I took of the animals under the overpass….the driver deliberately went a different way so I could capture the peacock!

The driver and a super photo, if I do say so myself!

Phew! Thus ends my Spring Break exploring Ellora, Ajanta and Hampi. Stay tuned for my next adventure!

High on my list of places to visit in India were the Ellora caves.  Lynn and I left Hampi and met up with Zeeshan at the airport.  We got up early for our day exploring Ellora. 

We arrived at the caves, a World Heritage site since 1983 with hundreds of caves but only 34 of which are able to be toured. One of the aspects that sets Ellora apart from other similar sites is that there are Jain, Buddhist and Hindu caves located here. This area was a large stop on the Silk Road trade route so there was a lot of money available for such architecture. While built from volcanic rock, which is very strong, the lava was a slow layering so there aren’t dinosaur fossils and other such archaeological artifacts.

The first cave you see upon entering the grounds is massive and impressive.  Officially known as Cave 16, the temple was carved directly in the mountain rock, from top to bottom.  It was first carved into a square block, then they started working on the details, again from the top.  The logistics and planning, not to mention the pressure not to make a mistake, must have been amazing.  This cave was built between 735-773 AD, during the reign of two kings and is a Hindu temple.

Words cannot describe the massiveness of this endeavor. At first you just enjoy the temple and its surroundings.  Then it begins to dawn on your that this beautiful structure was carved from a single rock, connected to a hill.  I don’t think I still fully appreciate the mastery involved.

I am starting with photos looking from the top down, rather than follow my usual pattern of the order of my visit. These two photos are compliments of Lynn.

These views below are from the center of the temple, where you climb to explore inside.

Entering the massive temple (it can hold 200 worshippers) you are first struck by the remnants of painting on the walls and the carved guards at the entrance. While hard to see on the photos below, one guard is looking in, while the other looking out – making sure all angles are protected.

Inside you can start appreciating the details and artistry!

The inner sanctuary, deliberately simple in its design, is the Shiva Linga.  The round bottom represents Parvati the wife and her uterus.  Here milk was poured over the Shiva Linga which blessed it, then it poured through the channel to the bowl located outside the temple for people to drink.

Archeologists have decided not to restore the painting because it would not be the original

At first, I thought the dark ceilings and ruts in the floor were due to wear and tear as well as age.  However, we learned that in the 18th century, people lived in the temple because it was safe (there were a lot of wars in the area).  The black ceilings are from their fires and the worn holes from cooking, a built-in mortar for chilis!  Our guide, who is an archeologist and historian, was mortified by this but I can’t help but understand.

Before this site became a UNESCO supported location, the grass lawn we see from the royal box was a parking lot.  Needless to say the CO2 fumes did a lot of damage in this balcony and other parts of the temple.

In this compound you will actually find five temples, the main one and four small shrines which surround the main temple.  There are five to represent the five elements.  Since dancing is a way to connect with God in Hinduism, the walls are adorned with dancing figures.  While waiting for Lynn to get her perfect photo, I was able to notice the intricate carvings and other details on the outside walls.

Our visit to cave 16 started in the right corner, where you can see the best view of the whole temple from the ground. This temple, 33 m high, sits in the enveloping arms of the surrounding rock wall.  When being built, 200,000 cubic tons of rock was excavated from here.  I wonder what they did with it!

As I sat to admire the view, more and more detail kept popping up, observations and impressions that kept building upon each other throughout this visit.  Our guide said every time he comes here, he notices something new.  I believe him!

Last, and certainly not least, we walked to the back of the temple. It was here I started to understand the immenseness of the structure.

I end our foray into Cave 16 with some fun moments.

Next, we visited the Jain caves, chronologically the newest caves built in the 10-11^th centuries.  Like with the other caves, these were built from the top to bottom, then carved from the front to the back.  Like Buddha, the founder of Jainism got fed up with his materialistic life, achieved enlightenment, and started his religion.  Most of the three caves we visited had images of Manatunga, who wrote many of the Jain prayers.  Also present are images of Lord Mahavira, considered by many to be the founder of Jainism. 

The first cave, Number 32, had an inner courtyard like that in Cave 16.  There was a central temple, with a surrounding gallery.  There was a column of victory of good over evil, but not one of glory (something I feel Jainism doesn’t strive for).  The elephants were here as well, seemingly a symbol for all religions in India.

For me, while not the engineering masterpiece of Cave 16, caves 33 and 34 had a spiritual warmth to them. Nestled into a corner added to the ambiance of worship.  In these caves, you went from hall to hall, so in essence, you visited both caves in one go.

Each of the chapels had the same design, a large open space with a central altar.  The altar has the founder sitting in the lotus potion flanked by disciples.  The wall surrounding this altar reminded me of a Russian Orthodox iconostasis, with a prescribed depiction of key designs, events or disciples.

We explored five chapels. The first two were smallest, one with a lotus on the ceiling.

I call this next chapel the dark room, with its blacker stones and deeper carvings.

The next two chapels were the most elegant.

One had a slab on the floor in the center of the room.  Archaeologists believe precious items might have been stored there.

The other chapel did not have the slab on the floor but had some evidence to indicate that this was used as a home in the 18^th century as well.

Being intrigued by all the columns in these chapels, I decided to dedicate a section of this blog post to my favorite photos.  The Greek influence on columns in India started after the invasion of the Indus valley by Alexander the Great in 325 BC.

I also felt that some of the remnants of the carvings or frescos looked like modern art.

Without a doubt, my most favorite part was seeing the incomplete statue above.  One can see how the artisan started and would work their way down deeper into the rock.  This would have been a full body had it been completed.

The earliest caves in the area are the Buddhist ones, built in the 6^th century.  We only visited one of these caves, with its stunning vaulted ceiling and beautiful acoustics.  Why only visit one?  This is why:

The Buddhist compound, which housed a monastery as well, was chosen due to the abundance of jade in the rocks. I saw quite a bit of jade and some quartz but didn’t see the malachite that can be found here as well.

The hill was dotted with temples, caves and dormitories and I kept looking at the grassy hilltop and wondered what was underneath! I also wondered if the carved simplicity was due to the age of the caves and a lack of technological knowledge, or in keeping with a monastic theme.

That said, the one cave we entered (cave 10) was spectacular.  The cathedral ceiling while simple in design had an artistic elegance and beauty.  I was mesmerized in the temple, a feeling supported by the music playing.

I think it is fitting I leave our visit to the caves with the peaceful music resonating in the stunning acoustics of the temple cave.

As we headed back to the car we passed the expected monkeys, and I had to agree with this fellow.  It is WAY too hot to move.

There were a few other things we did that day, after cooling off in the car’s AC.

We visited a silk sari store where we saw how fabric was created.  The silkworms for these shops are in Bangalore where the weather is more suited to their growth. Since most of the weaving work is done by women in their homes, the looms here are for education purposes.  It takes two people one month to make the material for one sari. I did learn there are two forms of sari fabric: Himroo and Paithani.

Himroo, Persian for ‘close to your soul’, is a complicated method that involves intermeshing various silk threads made from gold, silver and cotton.  This is of Persian origin with most of the designs on this fabric being Persian figurative motifs.   This fabric was originally meant for royal families.

Paithani is another style believed to have started in the Riveda period (1500-1000BC) but thrived in the 18^th century due to patronage from Peshwa Empire.

We shopped (Lynn bought saris which she wears regularly) and Zeeshan did the male ‘sit and wait’ thing.

Here you can see the work in progress.

Hampi is known as the City of Gates.  The city and surrounding area has over 1600 surviving ruins, including various gates, check posts, and other structures used for defense and access.  We passed or went through 7 of them.

A highlight for Zeeshan was visiting the tomb of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir.  This is the son of the man who built the Taj Mahal.  The simplicity of his tomb is in direct contract to the extravagance of the Taj and symbolizes the values of this great emperor.  Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir did not spend any money from the state treasury and lived off of the prayer caps he made and the Korans he copied.  He did a lot of good during his lifetime and is a revered historical figure.

Next are some photos of scenes from our drives around Ellora.

Our day ended at the Mini Taj, the tomb of Aurangzeb’s wife, built by his son between 1651-61. A little more grand than the father’s not as grand as the grandmother’s!

While the simplicity of the tomb was nice with the marble floral motifs surrounding you, the gate house had the most interesting inlay.

The street art under the overpass was stunning, I especially loved the peacock but that close up didn’t come out.

Our fifth day in Hampi was a travel day as we headed towards Ellora.  Travelling does not mean there are no photo opportunities! 

First, of course, was taking a photo with our driver, Afzal, another example of excellent the service and driving I have experienced in this country.

As we drove to the airport, I noticed the morning sellers and farmers heading off to work or the market.  Once on the highway there were MANY fully loaded trucks on the road bearing fruits and vegetables, reminding me we are leaving a key agricultural region of India.

There were the requisite beautiful temples of course.

As well as beautifully sari-ed women going about their days.

Lastly, I learned Mumbai is not the only airport with stunning artwork!

At the airport we said goodbye to Bhargavi who was heading home, while Lynn and I were joining Zeeshan in Ellora.

And I end these Hampi blog posts with a few examples of the local street art.

Our fourth day in Hampi started with our second day with Ravi and our next exciting explorations.  Off we went to the Vitala Temple, a major stop on the Hampi list.

We entered the complex of the temple through the tax gate and while walking to the temple (rather than take the van) we saw this building, the Gejjala/Parankusha Mandapa where minor events were celebrated, like engagements (weddings would have been at the main temple). Originally this building marked the beginning of the main road to the temple, while now it stands majestically in a field by the parking lot.

This small structure had lovely stone carvings and a square platform where the deity was placed in preparation for the procession to the main temple. It continues to amaze me how the stone pillars still stand after all these years, with no cement or nails keep them in place.  You can see how the stones are placed on top of each other here.

The walk was well worth it as we saw some interesting details and animals.  As always, Ravi knows best and we smiled as van after van passed us full of tourists. 

We saw remnants of the main road to the temple.  It is a goal of archaeologists here to excavate this road.  

As we walked we learned more interesting information about the Vijaynagara age. For example, kingship was not hereditary. Ministers chose who was best suited to be the ruler. Also we learned about the governmental minister who realized the cars driving up to the temple were causing vibrations and carbon emissions which was causing erosion. Therefore one can only enter the temple grounds by walking or electrical car! Of most importance we learned, the government of Karnataka gives money for free school field trips (which includes food, lodging, and transport) to Hampi.  These trips are funded in the hopes of building interest in the field of archaeology.

First, we saw the Kudure gombe (meaning toy horse) Mandapa (which means open wall temple) with its elegant horse pillars and their pronounced carvings.  This was located in what was the temple’s bazaar.  This is the only place in Hampi with such a motif and was built towards the end of the Vijaynagara age.

Next were the watering tanks where ablutions, religious washing, took place before one entered the temple grounds.  The smaller tank does not have a pedestal for an idol which indicates it was built later than other structures in the area.  There is no outlet for the water and as it evaporates the river and drainage refill it.  The Portuguese used this tank, as do farmers today.  Ravi explained that the local Minister hands out free rice to those living below the poverty line (which the women were eating) and of course, the kind women used some of this rice to feed the turtles so we could see them.  Of most interest for me was the alligator, birds and turtles in the tank.

Lastly, during this walk there was an excellent view of Hanuman’s palace and the steps up to it. Hanuman, the monkey king, is said to have special powers and qualities that he used to help Rama rescue his wife Sita. Time prevented us from climbing up the stairs to visit this (at least that is the excuse we are sticking to!).

Our walk ended as we approached the stupa with its requisite odd number of layers and entered the inner grounds of the Vittala Temple, one of the most important temples found in Hampi with its workmanship showcasing the most mature architecture of the Vijaynagara age.  Building began in 1422 by Devaraya II with subsequent rulers adding to it.

It is here one finds the stone chariot seen on tourist maps, books and paraphernalia all around Hampi.  This is considered an architectural marvel, and I can see why.  Although entirely made of stone, it has a lightness to it, which makes it seem like it can roll across the temple grounds.  You can see how the wheels are separate from the axle. The king would have strong men turn the wheels to represent movement of the chariot during important ceremonies.  The road we saw while walking here was a straight line from the outer entrance through this chariot to the main temple. Details, details, details!

Originally there were two horses that pulled the chariot, but an invader with their catapult destroyed the horses.  Replaced by elephants who don’t entirely fit into the pieces left from the horses nor have the delicacy of the rest of the chariot.

On the complex filled with temples, open walled and closed, are some columns that are unique in their delicacy.  These original pillars have withstood the ravages of time and are here to impress us with their juxtaposition to the other columns of the complex.

The next amazing wonder Ravi pointed out to us were the ‘singing pillars’.  Crafted expertly so that musicians would tap them at key spots, the eight pillars created musical notes of varying tones for playing.  One can still see the indentations where the multitude of taps were made.  Another musical ‘instrument’ was this carved bowl which was used as a drum.

The carvings on the pillars were amazing and I kept looking deeper and deeper at the details.   Inside the open walled temples with their carved columns was like a sea of beauty, with each column a masterpiece on its own, surrounded by other masterpieces that blend together into a harmonious ocean.

The outside walls were equally intricate and carefully crafted with attention to detail that left one awestruck.  For example, you can see Chinese and Portuguese noblemen carved on the bottom rows, indicating the influence of these countries and homage for the trade they gave to the civilization.  Of greatest amazement is the intentional holes crafted, small enough for a pen AND a thin twig.  Can you just imagine the pressure on the artisans not to make a mistake??

Below are hooks for silk curtains hung during festivals.  Can you imagine how beautiful this must have looked, with the beige of the stone enveloped by colorful Indian fabrics?!  Equally playing on the imagination was the row on the outside wall where candles were lit at night.

We went inside the main temple, which while not very interesting architecturally had some great moments.  Sadly, we learned that in the past, the Brahmins could not walk in a place where even the shadows of untouchable landed, so wherever light went through – even in the inner sanctum where musicians walked around, untouchables wouldn’t be allowed in.  This inner sanctum area also has a lot of bats which we saw but there wasn’t enough light to photograph them. So nice that today everyone enjoys the beauty of this temple.

Being off-season, we were able to view this location with minimal crowding.  In high season, this location would be wall to wall people!  The only experience we didn’t get being off-season is the nighttime light shows.  Missing those shows made up for seeing Hampi in its full beauty.  We had wonderful people moments here as well.  This group of tourists took many photos of us and spoke the same dialect from the neighborhood Bhargavi came from!  In general, all the visitors today are farmers and fishermen who arrive in busses for their pilgrimages during their off-season.

Behind the temple we walked to the river.  On the way we saw the kings balance.  On a certain holiday a person would be weighed against precious metals which would then be distributed to the poor. There were also many other buildings ruins dotting the hills.

At the river it was pleasant to sit in the shade and enjoy the view.  Included in this view was the king’s bathroom, a building where he could bathe in privacy. We enjoyed a glass of fresh sugar cane juice and lamented that the famous café was closed (according to Ravi it has the best food).

We took the electric bus back to the car and went off to our next stop: the Zenana Enclosure where we could see the Lotus Mahal, Ranga Temple and Elephant Stables.  Zenana Enclosure’s name implies this is a woman’s enclosure however there is no evidence that links these buildings to the queens’ court.  Furthermore, the presence of the elephant stables and a parade ground nearby indicate this was used by the king or his commanders.  The style of these buildings is Indo-Islamic which is why much of it wasn’t destroyed after the invasion.  These buildings are considered an excellent example of Vijayanagara secular architecture.

Quite fascinating was the surrounding wall, which was built without mortar, with granite blocks being artfully and mathematically placed together.  This thick wall was built so well that it still stands today.

Next is the foundation called ‘the Queen’s Basement’.  The function of these remains unknown however it was a palace,  which faced north with a flight of stairs with elephant balustrades and ornamental moldings.

This foundation immersed in the ground was probably the treasury due to its lack of an obvious entrance and small ventilation holes.

Now on to more interesting buildings. 

First is the Lotus Mahal, one of the best-preserved buildings in the complex due to its Islamic elements which made it safe during the Muslim invasion.  It was probably a council chamber with its symmetrical projections on each of the four sides.

Surrounding this enclosure are watchtowers which also highlight Indo-Islamic architecture.  The Vijayanagara empire enjoyed combining various architectural styles in its secular buildings, which can be seen here.

Now we enter the highlight of this complex: the elephant stables.  One walks through a small opening and then the eyes fall on this stunning architecture, with its rooftop that pays homage to various religious architectural styles.  The grassy courtyard serves to frame the image.

The guard house served two functions, then and today.  First of course was a home for the guards.  Second was the beauty salon for the elephants.  Today is also serves as a museum of sculpture.

On the way to our next location, we passed the site of archaeological digs. While most of the archaeologists and workers were on their lunch break, we were able to see a little of the painstaking work excavating is.

Our next stop was to the archeological museum, which aside from being interesting, was air conditioned so it was much easier to get immersed in the learning.  Established in 1956 with the current building erected in 1972, the museum was beautifully arranged with wall colors setting a tone of calmness while highlighting the displays. 

The first room of the museum was organized around the gods and goddess sculptures found around Hampi, with each section of the room showing various depictions of the deities.

Also included were artifacts with writings or carvings on metal (as well as palm leaf, which is amazing it has survived).  I learned the field of epigraphy focuses on the deciphering and interpretation of these inscriptions, which of course provide valuable insights into the history, language and culture of ancient civilizations.

There was a lot of information about the history and culture of the Vijayanagara Empire and a variety of artifacts that helped bring it to life.

The highlight for me was the large diorama of Hampi, which allowed me to get a sense of the location of the places we visited and their relation to each other.  The minutely detailed diorama even paid homage to the plethora of stones and boulders found around the area. 

Our day with Ravi continued with us driving across the river to the town where there are several artisan workshops, jobs for women who support their families. 

It was fascinating to see the arts and crafts one buys being created.  The first shop had women weaving with inexpensive banana fiber which allows these products to compete with machine made ones.  The workmanship was exceptional, using a crochet hook technique to create the various products.  Ravi thanked us for supporting this NGO while we were just happy to shop!

Next stop was to see how plaster was being made.  On the wall you see various consistencies for buyers to decide the type they want.

The last shop, another weaving location, was closing for the day and we saw the women heading home.  We were able to support this venture as well.

Walking through the town afforded us many opportunities to see how everyone lives and to take some photos.

The day ended with our stopping at a market behind the temple we visited on day one and a stunning sunset.  Included here are some photos I took while we waited for the driver this morning and a video with the glorious sounds of our hotel grounds at night.

Our afternoon explorations were on our own (with the driver who followed the tour guide’s recommendations).  We visited several interesting places but first I am including the photo from Day 3 part 1, our bird walk naturalist, which I forgot to include in the previous post.

The first place we visited was the Badavadi Linga Temple with its huge, monolithic Shiva linga.  The linga structure remains in water all year round, sourced by a tributary of the Tungabhhadra River.  It was fun to hear the water flowing underneath the stone ‘bridge’.

Alongside this, one finds the Narasimha Shrine, another huge stone sculpture.   This is a strong example of Vijayanagara art and was built in 1528.  Here we see Vishnu sitting in a yoga position on the sacred snake that is his guardian. He is surrounded by intricate carvings.  Missing from this artwork is the sitting Lakshmi, his consort who originally was on his left.  Missing also are some aspects of his face which led scholar to originally think this was a depiction of Ferocious Narasimha, but the remnants of Lakshmi’s hand on the back is proof this is a god.

Next, we visited the underground Shiva Temple, thus called because it was buried and recently excavated.   This temple dates to the 14^th century.  Most prominent here was the bull (Shiva’s mount) sitting in water. Looking at the bull inside the temple, I felt like I was discovering a mystery.

Located near the royal compounds, it is assumed this temple served the servants or nobles working for the royal family.

Near where we started our morning bird walk (you can see a well-lit photo of the stairs we climbed) is the monolithic bull.  Monolithic creations seem to be big in Hampi, obviously because of the prevalence of massive stones! 

It is here that we had one of those unexpected travel moments. I saw a sign for textiles and decided to look inside what I thought was a store.  Instead, we were treated to an exhibit featuring the textiles of the state of Karnaka.  The exhibit was called Pampa, the ancient name of the Tungabhhadra River and the purpose was to show off the weaving of the state, styles that are not very well known.  This exhibit, which took a year to curate and three weeks to set it up, has only been up for three weeks with tomorrow being the last day. There were original pieces alongside modern designers’ depictions of these traditional styles.  There was a free tour given by a student, who was incredibly knowledgeable and a good storyteller, making looking a materials very interesting!  Another example of the current governmental focus on restoring or remembering traditional art forms.

The exhibit was artfully arranged and a joy to walk through.

Saris, of course, took center stage, highlighting all the various patterns and ways women drape saris in India. The sari material and patterned blouses worn with saris made my mouth drool they were so beautiful. 

There was a section of the exhibit focusing on embroidery and quilting.  The various stitches were fascinating, as were the textiles which doubled as game boards! 

Lastly, textiles from the north which reminded me of Russian Valenki (felt boots).

True to the creativity and focus of this exhibit, the comments ‘book’ was a piece of cotton cloth hanging on the wall!

Without a doubt, the most amazing spot we visited today was the Hazara Ramachandra Temple (which translates as Thousand Ramas), the royal chapel. This temple was built in the 14^th and 15^th centuries and is dedicated to Vishnu.  The multitude of carvings are unique in their delicacy and themes, from processions to dancing to water sports!  No design or motif is repeated and life during the Vijayanagara reign is depicted. What an incredible treat to walk around this artistic masterpiece, having fun just exploring the temple – without any lectures, without any religious discussions – just walking through history in our own pace. 

Bhargavi was the first to relish the details.  She sat at this spot for a long time, so I honor her eye for detail with this photo!

Lynn noticed the columns with the dancing theme, including a carving of Ganesha dancing, something none of us had seen before!

I was transfixed by the black onyx columns.

Some other creatures enjoyed the temple as well!  By the way, chipmunks are noisy…who knew?!

I end this blog post with some photos from the day, showing life in Hampi. First are the carts with heading to sell their harvest.

Next are some photos of archaeological sights we drove by but didn’t visit. There were a lot more!

These are what the traditional homes looked like.

Seeing women in the traditional dress was a highlight. They were probably off to an event.

I end with a photo of today’s flower arrangement at the hotel and my favorite dish which I ate there three times!