Our fourth day in Hampi started with our second day with Ravi and our next exciting explorations.  Off we went to the Vitala Temple, a major stop on the Hampi list.

We entered the complex of the temple through the tax gate and while walking to the temple (rather than take the van) we saw this building, the Gejjala/Parankusha Mandapa where minor events were celebrated, like engagements (weddings would have been at the main temple). Originally this building marked the beginning of the main road to the temple, while now it stands majestically in a field by the parking lot.

This small structure had lovely stone carvings and a square platform where the deity was placed in preparation for the procession to the main temple. It continues to amaze me how the stone pillars still stand after all these years, with no cement or nails keep them in place.  You can see how the stones are placed on top of each other here.

The walk was well worth it as we saw some interesting details and animals.  As always, Ravi knows best and we smiled as van after van passed us full of tourists. 

We saw remnants of the main road to the temple.  It is a goal of archaeologists here to excavate this road.  

As we walked we learned more interesting information about the Vijaynagara age. For example, kingship was not hereditary. Ministers chose who was best suited to be the ruler. Also we learned about the governmental minister who realized the cars driving up to the temple were causing vibrations and carbon emissions which was causing erosion. Therefore one can only enter the temple grounds by walking or electrical car! Of most importance we learned, the government of Karnataka gives money for free school field trips (which includes food, lodging, and transport) to Hampi.  These trips are funded in the hopes of building interest in the field of archaeology.

First, we saw the Kudure gombe (meaning toy horse) Mandapa (which means open wall temple) with its elegant horse pillars and their pronounced carvings.  This was located in what was the temple’s bazaar.  This is the only place in Hampi with such a motif and was built towards the end of the Vijaynagara age.

Next were the watering tanks where ablutions, religious washing, took place before one entered the temple grounds.  The smaller tank does not have a pedestal for an idol which indicates it was built later than other structures in the area.  There is no outlet for the water and as it evaporates the river and drainage refill it.  The Portuguese used this tank, as do farmers today.  Ravi explained that the local Minister hands out free rice to those living below the poverty line (which the women were eating) and of course, the kind women used some of this rice to feed the turtles so we could see them.  Of most interest for me was the alligator, birds and turtles in the tank.

Lastly, during this walk there was an excellent view of Hanuman’s palace and the steps up to it. Hanuman, the monkey king, is said to have special powers and qualities that he used to help Rama rescue his wife Sita. Time prevented us from climbing up the stairs to visit this (at least that is the excuse we are sticking to!).

Our walk ended as we approached the stupa with its requisite odd number of layers and entered the inner grounds of the Vittala Temple, one of the most important temples found in Hampi with its workmanship showcasing the most mature architecture of the Vijaynagara age.  Building began in 1422 by Devaraya II with subsequent rulers adding to it.

It is here one finds the stone chariot seen on tourist maps, books and paraphernalia all around Hampi.  This is considered an architectural marvel, and I can see why.  Although entirely made of stone, it has a lightness to it, which makes it seem like it can roll across the temple grounds.  You can see how the wheels are separate from the axle. The king would have strong men turn the wheels to represent movement of the chariot during important ceremonies.  The road we saw while walking here was a straight line from the outer entrance through this chariot to the main temple. Details, details, details!

Originally there were two horses that pulled the chariot, but an invader with their catapult destroyed the horses.  Replaced by elephants who don’t entirely fit into the pieces left from the horses nor have the delicacy of the rest of the chariot.

On the complex filled with temples, open walled and closed, are some columns that are unique in their delicacy.  These original pillars have withstood the ravages of time and are here to impress us with their juxtaposition to the other columns of the complex.

The next amazing wonder Ravi pointed out to us were the ‘singing pillars’.  Crafted expertly so that musicians would tap them at key spots, the eight pillars created musical notes of varying tones for playing.  One can still see the indentations where the multitude of taps were made.  Another musical ‘instrument’ was this carved bowl which was used as a drum.

The carvings on the pillars were amazing and I kept looking deeper and deeper at the details.   Inside the open walled temples with their carved columns was like a sea of beauty, with each column a masterpiece on its own, surrounded by other masterpieces that blend together into a harmonious ocean.

The outside walls were equally intricate and carefully crafted with attention to detail that left one awestruck.  For example, you can see Chinese and Portuguese noblemen carved on the bottom rows, indicating the influence of these countries and homage for the trade they gave to the civilization.  Of greatest amazement is the intentional holes crafted, small enough for a pen AND a thin twig.  Can you just imagine the pressure on the artisans not to make a mistake??

Below are hooks for silk curtains hung during festivals.  Can you imagine how beautiful this must have looked, with the beige of the stone enveloped by colorful Indian fabrics?!  Equally playing on the imagination was the row on the outside wall where candles were lit at night.

We went inside the main temple, which while not very interesting architecturally had some great moments.  Sadly, we learned that in the past, the Brahmins could not walk in a place where even the shadows of untouchable landed, so wherever light went through – even in the inner sanctum where musicians walked around, untouchables wouldn’t be allowed in.  This inner sanctum area also has a lot of bats which we saw but there wasn’t enough light to photograph them. So nice that today everyone enjoys the beauty of this temple.

Being off-season, we were able to view this location with minimal crowding.  In high season, this location would be wall to wall people!  The only experience we didn’t get being off-season is the nighttime light shows.  Missing those shows made up for seeing Hampi in its full beauty.  We had wonderful people moments here as well.  This group of tourists took many photos of us and spoke the same dialect from the neighborhood Bhargavi came from!  In general, all the visitors today are farmers and fishermen who arrive in busses for their pilgrimages during their off-season.

Behind the temple we walked to the river.  On the way we saw the kings balance.  On a certain holiday a person would be weighed against precious metals which would then be distributed to the poor. There were also many other buildings ruins dotting the hills.

At the river it was pleasant to sit in the shade and enjoy the view.  Included in this view was the king’s bathroom, a building where he could bathe in privacy. We enjoyed a glass of fresh sugar cane juice and lamented that the famous café was closed (according to Ravi it has the best food).

We took the electric bus back to the car and went off to our next stop: the Zenana Enclosure where we could see the Lotus Mahal, Ranga Temple and Elephant Stables.  Zenana Enclosure’s name implies this is a woman’s enclosure however there is no evidence that links these buildings to the queens’ court.  Furthermore, the presence of the elephant stables and a parade ground nearby indicate this was used by the king or his commanders.  The style of these buildings is Indo-Islamic which is why much of it wasn’t destroyed after the invasion.  These buildings are considered an excellent example of Vijayanagara secular architecture.

Quite fascinating was the surrounding wall, which was built without mortar, with granite blocks being artfully and mathematically placed together.  This thick wall was built so well that it still stands today.

Next is the foundation called ‘the Queen’s Basement’.  The function of these remains unknown however it was a palace,  which faced north with a flight of stairs with elephant balustrades and ornamental moldings.

This foundation immersed in the ground was probably the treasury due to its lack of an obvious entrance and small ventilation holes.

Now on to more interesting buildings. 

First is the Lotus Mahal, one of the best-preserved buildings in the complex due to its Islamic elements which made it safe during the Muslim invasion.  It was probably a council chamber with its symmetrical projections on each of the four sides.

Surrounding this enclosure are watchtowers which also highlight Indo-Islamic architecture.  The Vijayanagara empire enjoyed combining various architectural styles in its secular buildings, which can be seen here.

Now we enter the highlight of this complex: the elephant stables.  One walks through a small opening and then the eyes fall on this stunning architecture, with its rooftop that pays homage to various religious architectural styles.  The grassy courtyard serves to frame the image.

The guard house served two functions, then and today.  First of course was a home for the guards.  Second was the beauty salon for the elephants.  Today is also serves as a museum of sculpture.

On the way to our next location, we passed the site of archaeological digs. While most of the archaeologists and workers were on their lunch break, we were able to see a little of the painstaking work excavating is.

Our next stop was to the archeological museum, which aside from being interesting, was air conditioned so it was much easier to get immersed in the learning.  Established in 1956 with the current building erected in 1972, the museum was beautifully arranged with wall colors setting a tone of calmness while highlighting the displays. 

The first room of the museum was organized around the gods and goddess sculptures found around Hampi, with each section of the room showing various depictions of the deities.

Also included were artifacts with writings or carvings on metal (as well as palm leaf, which is amazing it has survived).  I learned the field of epigraphy focuses on the deciphering and interpretation of these inscriptions, which of course provide valuable insights into the history, language and culture of ancient civilizations.

There was a lot of information about the history and culture of the Vijayanagara Empire and a variety of artifacts that helped bring it to life.

The highlight for me was the large diorama of Hampi, which allowed me to get a sense of the location of the places we visited and their relation to each other.  The minutely detailed diorama even paid homage to the plethora of stones and boulders found around the area. 

Our day with Ravi continued with us driving across the river to the town where there are several artisan workshops, jobs for women who support their families. 

It was fascinating to see the arts and crafts one buys being created.  The first shop had women weaving with inexpensive banana fiber which allows these products to compete with machine made ones.  The workmanship was exceptional, using a crochet hook technique to create the various products.  Ravi thanked us for supporting this NGO while we were just happy to shop!

Next stop was to see how plaster was being made.  On the wall you see various consistencies for buyers to decide the type they want.

The last shop, another weaving location, was closing for the day and we saw the women heading home.  We were able to support this venture as well.

Walking through the town afforded us many opportunities to see how everyone lives and to take some photos.

The day ended with our stopping at a market behind the temple we visited on day one and a stunning sunset.  Included here are some photos I took while we waited for the driver this morning and a video with the glorious sounds of our hotel grounds at night.