To refresh your memory, last Christmas my sister gifted me a trip from Guess Where Trips. These trips are like the TV show, Amazing Race, in that you open envelopes and only then find out where you will be going next.  So, for Alex’s birthday I created a trip for her and then for my birthday she did the same…only she took it to a whole new level. As we got into the car with our morning bagels, I opened my first envelope entitled, “History, Religion and Nature.”  Alex wrote, “Our ultimate destination rests on the seaside…sits on an island and [is] home to 25,000 residents.”  We were going to NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND!!

I will start by sharing some interesting factoids about the famous town of Newport (although officially a city due to its diverse economy, it is so small I insist on calling it a town!).

1. While Benjamin Franklin is a household name, his brother, James Franklin, was a prominent Newport citizen who published both the Rhode Island Almanac and Newport’s first newspaper, the Newport Daily News, still in print today.
2. Newport is home to the oldest typewriter in the country. I wonder who thought it was important save it?
3. Newport hosted the first circus performance in the country.
4. Newport was the site of the first airplane passenger line in the United States between Newport and New York City. I guess it always catered to the rich and famous.
5.  Newport can boast it is the site of the nation’s first automobile arrest and jail sentence. The offender was driving 15 miles per hour.  Speed demon!!  Not to be outdone, galloping horses were banned on the streets of Newport in 1678.  Hmmm, do Newportians have a thing for speed??
6. The nation’s first auto race was held in Newport as well as the first polo match. Yep, apparently they do!
7. Ida Lewis, the first female lighthouse keeper, saved lives here.
8. The first duplex house in the US was built here in 1750.

Driving north was a trip down memory lane as we passed Port Chester, NY, (where I lived while working in NYC) and New London, CT (where I went to college and the locale of my first teaching job).

The drive would take 4-hours, so we stopped for a break in Mystic, CT.  This historic seaport is famous for its restored homes and ships. During its 19th century prime, 600 ships were built in Mystic over 135 years. There is a lot of New England history to learn about in Mystic, but our needs were more primal: food. The Mystic Market Kitchen Eatery and its yummy gourmet sandwiches met that need more than adequately.

As you can see, the weather was not cooperating.  Originally, we planned to travel the prior weekend but due to the weather report, we made reservations for this weekend.  Well, thank goodness my sister has 4-wheel drive and is an excellent driver in the snow, meteorologists be damned! 

As we were leaving Mystic, Waze re-directed us due to an accident on the highway.  This resulted in some back-road-beautiful photos.

The snow was heavy due to the humidity, and the lack of wind meant the trees created a Winter Wonderland.

Despite the weather we made good time and, having checked into the elegant Motel 6, rested a bit until our first excursion: The Breakers.

Newport, RI has been noteworthy for several reasons since its establishment in 1639, but its “cottages” are what put this coastal destination into the forefront of many minds these days. The cottages are in fact very grand mansions built during the US Gilded Age (1870-1918) by wealthy families such as the Vanderbilts and the Astors. These opulent summer homes, such as The Breakers, Marble House and Rosecliff, showcase exquisite architecture and provide a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of America’s elite during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The Breakers manse, symbol of the Vanderbilt family’s social and financial pre-eminence in the Gilded Age, is the must-see, grandest of all the Newport mansions. Sadly, while the mansion on its own is extremely impressive, the bad weather meant we couldn’t walk the grounds which are supposed to be lovely. In addition, the low clouds of the snowstorm meant we couldn’t see the cliff at the edge of the property, from which the roaring waves breaking on the stones give this cottage its name.

Designed by American architect Richard Morris Hunt, The Breakers is designed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, resembling a Roman palazzo. It was built to impress, and no expense was spared in its creation.  Amazingly, the 70-room “cottage” was finished in only 2 years using a huge army of artists and craftsmen.  One reason the house was completed in such a short time was because they began decorating before construction concluded: a room would be designed and built in France, then disassembled and sent to Newport for re-construction.

The enormous expense of maintaining this home ultimately led to public tours in 1948, held by the newly established Preservation Society (founded by Gladys Vanderbilt, Cornelius II’s youngest daughter).

The tour opened with us entering the Great Hall, just as any visitor to the Vanderbilts would have. This enormous space (50′ x 50′) with its lofty ceiling painted with clouds in a bright blue sky, was modeled after 16th century, Genoan open-air courtyards. The purpose of this home was to advertise the Vanderbilts’ social status as well as to show the world that America was now a financial powerhouse. However, I loved learning that as grand and formal as this space is, the building was still a summer home to 7 children who would ride tricycles around the hall and slide down the grand staircase on trays! 

In the photo below, you can see the Grand Staircase leading down into the Great Hall. In the photo below that is the water fountain which sits underneath the stairs. The staircase and fountain were inspired by the Paris Opera House. The height of the steps was designed so that women could descend without lifting their skirts, giving the appearance of floatation.

The portrait below is of Cornelius Vanderbilt II who built this house and who, with his brother, ran the railroad empire founded by their grandfather.  He was worth $75,000,000 at the turn of the 20th century!!  However, he sought out humility and started his professional life as a clerk at the Shoe and Leather Bank. It was during these years he met his wife, Alice Claypool, while they were both teaching church school.

As with all the public rooms, the formal Dining Room (below) was designed to wow. The wall sconces and chandeliers were made with Baccarat crystal. Of particular interest, the lamps were electric, but because it was such a new technology it was not always reliable, so all the light fixtures in the house were plumbed for gas as well. 

Next up, the Billiard Room.  The stone floor tile and murals in Cornelius’ man-cave were meant to create a sense of cool retreat, with the mosaics, alabaster archway and design mimicking an ancient Roman room.  If you’ve seen the HBO series, The Gilded Age, this room was used in the filming. Throughout the tour there were numerous ‘behind the scenes’ tidbits shared.

The lighting fixture over the billiard table is made from bronze. It is so heavy, it is secured to the joists of the house.

Moving on, we were able to catch a glimpse of the Breakfast Room. Designed in the style of grand French palaces like Versailles, this is where the family would eat breakfast and informal dinners.  Most interesting, the panels you see below were thought to be decorated with silver, but it was noticed they never tarnished. So, conservators used a portable X-ray machine and learned the glam came from (no-tarnish) platinum, which was incredibly expensive even back when the house was built. 

I was listening to an audio tour while discovering this house, and in the Morning Room (below) I heard a lovely story narrated by Gladys Vanderbilt. She recalled how on Sundays they were not allowed to play games.  However, unlike other families they were allowed to read anything they wanted.  She went on to share a vignette about one of the brothers, Reggie, who invented a board game called, “Going to Church.” All Gladys could remember, as she giggled, was that the board was styled after Parcheesi and somehow the game was allowed to be played on Sundays!

Above is the Morning Room where the family would spend most of their indoor time during the day.

Next to the Morning Room, The Music Room – majestic golden hues tempered warmly by a light green, with chairs placed around the large fireplace. The ceiling is quite lovely and contains four musical terms in French: le chant, melodie, la musique et harmonie. The Vanderbilts were very musical, all played instruments. They would hold concerts and the matriarch hosted musical soirees. The Music Room, which faces the ocean, hosted many lavish events, including daughter Gertrude’s wedding and her sister Silvia’s debutant ball.

The ceiling of the Music Room

While I liked the colors of the Music Room, my favorite space was the Library (of course).  The dark paneled walls offered an intimate family space to read or relax during afternoon tea.

The Library

As we walked up to the second floor it was nice to see the carved details of the Grand Hall ceiling up close. 

Now on the second floor, we entered Gladys’ bedroom (Countess Széchenyi), one of 15 (!) on this floor. Compared to the opulence of the first floor, the bedroom is quite austere, but such were the times of the day: this was how the other half really lived. It also reminds one that this was, first and foremost, a home. The bedrooms were designed by Ogden Cogman who was known for his understated, elegant style.

All the rooms were connected with hidden doors, primarily used by servants whose goal was to be invisible. This bedroom also connected to the master bedroom via a bathroom, quite small and simple compared to the other ones we saw.

Below is Cornelius Vanderbilt’s bedroom. He was considered the most powerful financial baron of his time.

While most houses in the area had one bathroom, The Breakers has 20! All the bathrooms in the house boasted the latest conveniences including running hot and cold fresh and salt water as well as designated sitz baths for soothing the nether regions after a long day of carriage or horseback riding.

I was intrigued by the closets: you can see how large dresses and formal suits were hung and stored.

Below is Mrs. Alice Vanderbilt’s bedroom. Perhaps her days as a church schoolteacher served her well as she was known to be a woman who ensured the cottage was run to polished perfection. Unsurprisingly, over Mrs. Vanderbilt’s nightstand were call buttons for any house staff she needed. 

High society women of the day were expected to change as frequently as 8 times per day. So, of course, Mrs. Vanderbilt’s bedroom boasted 4 closets. It also might explain why Mrs. Vanderbilt’s room also served as her office: how else could she get everything done 😉 ?

As part of the audio tour, I heard from children of those who worked at the mansion. 

The daughter of a chambermaid said there was a lot of dusting and laundry. Bed linens were changed twice a day. There were also fresh towels after every bath, and they often took several baths a day. 

A footman told us how there were the ‘upstairs and downstairs staff.’  Footmen (who had to be over 6’ tall) were the only staff permitted to be seen by the family.

A daughter of a worker recalled how her mother allowed her to spy on a grand ball one night.

Servant bedrooms were modern and well appointed, but hot and small (as told by the daughter of a woman who worked there). As they also spent summers there, she remembered how they ran up and down the stairs all day but were not allowed to touch anything.  However, they were allowed to play outside in the back.

There were several rooms in the mansion under restoration we didn’t get to see, but we glimpsed at the work underway which was interesting.

Before we headed down to the kitchen we passed the top of the Grand Staircase, with its stunning stained-glass skylight by John LaFarge and the 17^th century tapestry depicting the life of Alexander the Great.  The family was well known for collecting European art and this is just one example.

The servant staircase and corridors (below) are made from a lovely wood, with railing as finely crafted as in the homes of wealthy people.

The kitchen, safely away from the rest of the house in its own wing as a fire precaution, was impressive. The stove is 21 feet long, large enough for an army of chefs to cook for all of the family, guests and staff.  Many of those who cooked here went off to grand careers, with one becoming a celebrity chef.

From the kitchen we pass through the Flower Room, and then into the 2-story(!) Butler’s Pantry. The Butler’s Pantry was the hub of house: if this were a ship it would be the captain’s bridge with the butler at the helm (as any of us who have watched Downtown Abbey would know!).

In the gift shop (where I bought a magnet and Christmas tree ornament) were shelves of books set in Newport or about the Gilded Age. I have already borrowed two from the library!

As we left the house, we passed the building below which I later learned was the Children’s Playhouse Cottage, built in 1886 to match the original Breakers house (the one that burned down). It was one of Gladys’ play areas. This brought the concept of a “playhouse” to a whole new level for me… and was a great way to end the first excursion!

Our day ended with two culinary delights. First, we went to Bowen’s Wharf for cocktails, as it was too early for our dinner reservation.  The restaurant, Bowens 22, had the most professional bartender I have ever been served by.  Aside from creating excellent cocktails, he joined our conversation at appropriate times, showing he was listening for when he was needed, but never interfering.

The snow finally stopped falling at dusk.

Then I experienced one of the best meals of my life at a restaurant with super history, impeccable service and exceptional food.  The White Horse Tavern is the oldest continuously running tavern/restaurant in America.  Established in 1673, the décor maintains the ambiance of the 17^th century it is easy to imagine George Washington eating here, as local legend suggests. In fact, it is known that Benjamin Franklin stayed here.  The memorabilia hanging on the walls… clearly not purchased by a decorator, but maybe have been here all along??

The White Horse Tavern

The meal was ‘simple’ fare prepared perfectly.  Since New England clam chowder was invented in Newport, I started with that (it was the best chowder I ever ate), and Alex enjoyed the Scotch Egg. My entree was homemade lobster ravioli in a sauce to die for while Alex had the Beef Wellington.  I ended the meal with a lovely madeira wine and – what a surprise – we didn’t have to remind the waiter it was my birthday and I got a candle on my dessert plate.

A great end to a great day. As a matter of fact we had such a good time we forgot to have a photo taken with us together.