Jodhpur-Part 1

This final entry from my weekend in and near Jodhpur starts us flying in over the Thar Desert and disembarking with a large family group wearing matching t-shirts in pink (saying Bride Squad) and blue (Groom Squad). This is the third time I have seen matching t-shirts on Indian traveling groups, I am SO interested in doing this one day!

We met up with Zeeshan who picked us up, greeted us with traditional flower garlands (which made the car smell so sweet as we drove all day) informing us that we were ‘escorted’ by Indian fighter jets as we landed (many Indian airports are located on air force bases, and since we are near the Pakistan border, they were flying sorties). As we left the airport we were greeted with beautiful street art, welcoming us to Sun City the nickname for Jodhpur, that set the tone for the beauty we were to witness over the two days.

It is hard to see, but the black lines are carved so the piece has a three-dimensionality to in when viewed in person.

We then headed off to the Jodhpur Fort Museum, the local fort of the royal family that ruled the area for centuries. This fort, built in 1459, is still privately owned by them and maintained by the Mehrangarh Museum Trust, set up by His Majesty Maharaja GajSingh II of Marwar-Jodhpur. All money collected from entrance and photo fees are used for restoration work, hence it is very well maintained. This museum also hosts cultural events and special exhibits, has an award winning fine-dining restaurant (unfortunately only open for dinner), other good eating spots, as well as a superb gift shop. This is a ‘must see’ should you be in the area.

These gazebos, found all around, were memorials. The closer to the castle, the more important the person was.

We hired a local guide and got into the line for the first elevator in a fort – finished in 1995, after taking five years to build as they had to drill through solid rock. The rock was quite beautiful, with two types of stones on view. The dark pink is rhyolite, a volcanic rock several hundreds of million years old. The other rock is sandstone with its sediments from sea life here eons ago. Two rocks with such close contact is called ‘unconformity’. Of interest, these two rock formations were not created near each historically so there is no ‘record’ of what happened between the two periods.

Our first stop was to look at the views from the patio (where the fine dining restaurant is housed). We learned that there was an ornate system of pumping water up to the castle using gutter-like ruts in the palace walls and Persian water wheels.

This little guy was hanging around one of the water wheels!

The guide pointed out the blue-painted houses in the old town. There are several reasons for this. First, historically Brahmans painted their homes blue and since it was back luck to kill a Brahman, others got into the act. Secondly, it represents those who worship Shiva and Vishnu. Third, and probably the main reason today, mosquitos do not like blue, so it is a natural repellant. It is also believed that blue is cooling to the eyes and helps one deal with the heat of the day.

The massiveness of the palace grounds can be somewhat understood with this view.

The lake closest to the palace is called Queens Lake, created at the request of the queen when the fort was built. The lake further on (hard to see but beyond the palace wall) is called People’s Lake for others to use.

The fort was truly used to defend the palace, and these are some guns that were used. There is an old-fashioned machine-gun which used gun powder that was imported starting in the 15^th century.

Hunting the royal way: the boars were herded into this enclosure and then shot from above.

Our guide pointed out these relevant buildings.

This is the current palace of the Maharaja, it is also a hotel!

This is the clock tower built between 1880 and 1911 by the then current Maharaja.

This is the Taj Mahal of Jodhpur, built in 1899 for the favorite wife of a maharaja. We did not have the time to visit, but if you are going to Jodhpur do not miss it.

All the colored glass in the palace was imported from Belgium.

We then walked past the rooms of the crown prince into the courtyard where coronations were held. Like at the Jain palace I wrote about yesterday, my eyes didn’t know where to focus as each inch was filled with ornate carvings and details.

Coronations for Maharajas were simple affairs, with the younger brother or younger man from the bloodline cutting their finger on a sword, anointing the Maharaja’s forehead with the blood, pledging loyalty, and finally giving the sword to the new Maharaja. The current Maharaja is 75 years old and was crowned when he was 4 as his father died at 29 in a plane crash (with his mistress).

You will notice there are two very distinct architectural styles in this courtyard. This is because of the male (mardana) and female (zanana) living sections of the palace. It is easy to know which is the female as the lattice designs (all 250 of them) are such that women can look out but cannot be seen.

Interesting factoid I learned: gargoyles are actually meant to be pipes to prevent water from seeping onto the buildings. Here the gargoyles were simple holes.

In the courtyard was this alcove with hookah and opium pipes. Historically, soldiers smoked opium before heading out to battle (to incite bravery and energy) and then of course for painkillers when injured.

Next was what I called the chair room. Here you found many examples of elephant howdah (on top of elephants) and pinjas (carried by men) which were used to transport royalty around. The howdah of the most historical significance was this silver one, presented by the Mughul ruler Shahjahan to Maharaja Jaswan Singh I on the 18^th of December 1657. He also gifted 100 horses (a rarity in those days).

This howdah is from the 18^th century.

This transported either drums or insignia.

From the 19^th century, this pinja transported the Maharaja’s wife on the way to her wedding (hence she was hidden) and the poles are to open windows for ventilation (since the side windows could not be opened).

This 16th century pinja was for the crown prince and since he was lighter, there is only one pole for carrying. Note the velvet padding for comfort.

These always have two seats. The bodyguard sits behind the Maharaja (you can tell because there is less legroom) so that any assassins shooting from the rear wouldn’t hit the royal.

More open and spacious chairs were used for ceremonies or festivals when dignitaries would accompany the royals.

This is Lynn who is as voracious a photographer as me!

This is a photograph although by the 20th century this mode of transportation was not in fashion.

We walked through another archway to a courtyard where we entered the next room which displayed weapons and items used by the royals.

This boy is looking into the water tank which collected water during the rainy season.

The great palanquin in this room needed 12 men to carry the maharaja (factoid: the word maha means great). It was brought to the palace as war booty by Maharaha Abhay Singh in 1730 after defeating the governor of Gujarat Sarbuland Khan.

The mirror was used for the drivers to see around sharp curves.

This is a toran. It is placed at the entrance of the bride’s house. The groom touches it seven times. It (as well as the Ganesh idol) symbolizes an auspicious beginning.

The two mauds were worn on the side of the bride and groom’s eyes. They are removed after they seven sacred rounds around the fire, when they are officially married. This is ‘modern’ as it is from the 20^th century.

These elaborate sword handles are from the 19^th century. The one with enamel is Persian.

This tool was used by the mahout (who steered the elephant), but it was a last resort. Most commands were vocal, with the foot being the second method. When the pole had to be used, the elephant was poked behind the ear.

This charming lady is actually the top of a wine flask, with her hand designed to pour the liquid.

I imagine this shield was more ceremonial as it is so beautifully decorated.

This room is in the men’s section as this intricate marble window is open.

These are women’s dumbbells…maybe if I had exercise equipment like this, I would be more diligent!

Don’t know what this is for, but it is beautiful.

Toys fit for a king: especially the railroad station modeled after the first one in Jodhpur, established around 1880.

This lock needs 4 keys to open it, which helped the queen ensure no one would steal her valuables. She would entrust one key to each of three trusted people.

This is an idol of the goddess Parvati, the consort of Shiva. It was used by woman to pray for the safe return of their husbands from war and by unmarried woman to pray for a good husband.

This massive lock and key was used to secure one of the gates of the palace.

This 18^th century bronze cannon has the face of a boar and the tail of an alligator.

Next was a room dedicated to miniature paintings, with information on how the natural paints were created – complete with how shells were used as palettes. The works focused on the theme of the love story between Krishna and Radha, as well as Shiva and Parvati – who symbolize eternal love. There were exquisite examples of this art form, by artists from this region.

This is the large painting and below are details from it.

I loved the subject matter of this painting.

Next, we climbed these stairs to see some royal rooms from the maharaja’s section. They did not disappoint.

This is the bedroom of Maharaja Ajit Singh who ruled from 1679 to 1724. It is known as the Palace of Mirrors. After his reign it was a guest room. The art focused on religious figures, a style of the time, and the mirrors would glitter under the candlelight. What a way to fall asleep!

This screen is made of rods wrapped in silk that form the design. Impressive!

Here is an example of some of the restoration work happening in the palace.

Next was the Phool Malal, known as the Palace of Flowers. This 18^th century chamber was the private audience hall of Maharaja Abhay Singh (1724-49). There is no other word to describe it other than magnificent. I could have stood here all day, and while I spent a long time here there was still more to see!

When you think about how this room was built in the 18^th century and this glass is from Belgium, you can imagine the costs involved in decorating this palace.

The third room open for viewing was the bedroom of the maharaja from 1843. Every inch of the space is painted and like the mirror room, the space is beautiful within its busy-ness. There is a coziness to it.

As we walked from room to room and floor to floor, we caught glimpses of the views the royal family would have seen. Quite beautiful, as every inch of the palace has a thoughtful design element to it.

There was an excitement as we walked through an archway and anticipation of what beauty will be seen filled my mind. Each courtyard or room had some detail or factoid of interest.

These mini Hindu icons are placed strategically to train tourists not to litter. Images of the gods are holy and the space cannot be defied.

It was fun to realize we were now walking in the woman’s section of the palace.

Inside the palace room where the women could watch the coronations and other events taking place in the courtyard, was a display of royal cradles from the 19^th and 20^th centuries. I have never seen anything like this before and the artistry and details were amazing. Interesting, some of these were not royal cradles but used as beds for deity idols! It took a while before I noticed the ceilings, also exquisite.

This was the current maharaja’s cradle, modern as it rocked electronically and was a gift from someone.

I imagine the royal women knew where to sit and at which angle so as to see the courtyard!

I will take this opportunity to share that some of the palace guards, dressed in traditional outfits, made a lot of money in tips from being photographed because of their amazing beards and mustaches. Some, of course, were caught unaware!

We entered another courtyard which, hard to believe at this point, surprised me as the wood was different. This courtyard housed the maharaja’s council room. I wondered if the mirrors on the ceiling were there to spy on any papers someone might have! The window at the back was for the queen to listen in. She was there to offer advise to the maharaja as well as to know what was going when ruling in his absence. This is the oldest part of the palace open to the public, dating back to 1549.

In the alcove above the throne you can see the grated window where the queen sat.

Then there was the final courtyard where we enjoyed a glass of lavender lemonade and people watched.

She was with the artist and I think she dressed and sat here on purpose!

I kept waiting to take this woman sitting in front of the door without anyone around her, but alas it was not meant to be.

Curious what the finished piece will look like.

As we walked, we passed these swift nests. There were many flying around. The guide told us there is a butcher who comes every day at 3pm to feed them. Since we took way longer at the palace than originally planned, we ran into the man on his way to feel the birds! Another reason why it pays to have a tour guide rather than headphones. Of course they knew each other!

Like the layout of all good museums, we left through the excellent museum shop, which also happened to be the female’s exit from the palace. Kind of appropriate I think!

Then it was time to start our long walk down to the entrance. We learned more history and culture as our guide showed us these spikes. They are high up as protection from invading armies with elephants. The sharp corner is also deliberate as it slows down an approaching army.

Historically, only the Maharaja could enter one of the seven the main gates. These holes were for beams to prevent other people from going through.

These handprints are gruesome. They are the hands of women who chose to die on the pyre with their husbands. The practice was banned by the British mainly because it evolved into a way for relatives to control the wealth and power and women were forced to sacrifice themselves.

When the palace was starting to be built in 1459, a man voluntarily had himself buried alive in the foundation stone and this plaque honors him and the building of the fort. This was meant to be auspicious and the family of the volunteer was given a lot of land and money as a result.

The reality of this being a fort was seen as we continued our walk down. These are cannonball holes which happened when Jaipur Maharaja was fighting with the Jodhpur Maharaja in 1808. Jodhpur prevailed and to commemorate the victory a new entrance called the Victory Gate and a new wall around the fort was added.

As we left the grounds of the palace the final awe-inspiring moment was seeing the palace from below. While you can’t see the palace it in its entirety, these angles give you an idea.

I like how this angle shows the layout, with building wings between the courtyards we walked through.

Since I was now curious about the layout I Googled it! This is what I found:

This is a toothbrush tree as chewing on the twigs released the natural properties that prevent tooth and gum decay!

On this hill the cemetery for the royal family is located. We were able to get a glimpse as we drove away.

Full circle: the memorial gazebo we saw coming in, now with better lighting!

Two interesting factoids:

A lot of Bollywood movies are filmed here as well as the 1990s version of The Jungle Book. It is an effective location for period dramas, especially since there are no visible electrical wires.
When the silk route crossed the nearby desert, the two maharajahs from the region would give them protection. As a result, there would be a cattle fair before the desert so the traders could sell their horses and buy camels. Going west they carried silk and other Chinese goods. On the way east: opium.

Last, but not least, some random photos I want to share with you.