Between the two safaris on Saturday, we visited an architectural marvel in the town of Ranakpur, about 30km from where we were.  It is here we explored the Shri Ranakpur Jain Temple.

Except for this tower, the entire temple is made of marble. The sandstone of this tower reacts to the monsoon season, hence the discoloration. The sheer white of the rest of the temple made taking a photo of the entire whiteness a challenge for the camera’s light meter!

Before I go into the temple and its beauty, here are a few facts about this religion that was started 2500 years ago in India.  It is very similar to Buddhism in that the goal is to end the cycle of re-birth.  The main belief of Jainism is that all living beings and the universe itself should be protected and treated with care and respect, hence the most devout will follow a strict vegetarian diet that includes no root vegetables as that harms the entire plant.  Jainism doesn’t have a central God, creator, or any saints. Instead, they look for guidance to their 24 prophets who have achieved the ability to live without desire.

To go inside we first had to pass through security…not the usual kind.  There were two young women who were taking their job too seriously.  I wasn’t allowed to bring in my iPad because I might take photos with it (I had paid to take photos) while they didn’t notice the purse was leather (we had to take off all leather and I forgot about my purse).  There was a western tourist who had a scarf wrapped around her waist (she was in shorts) and the women wouldn’t let her in because ‘she might take it off’. Luckily calmer heads prevailed when she promised she wouldn’t.

Humor aside, this is a very holy place for Jains and I respected the request not to take photos of the key holy prophet statues (in the center of the shrine, where non-believers could not enter).

The building is entirely symmetrical, and took 63 years to build (1433 to 1496).  The cost at the time of building was 6,000,000!  Today, there is no price on the masterpiece.  There are 1,440 pillars that support the structure and there is no electricity.  There are 20 small and 4 large domes.  Every inch of space is carved and the beautiful details were endless.  The making of the temple reminded me of how the pyramids are believed to have been built: mud and dirt were piled, with pulleys and ramps so that the ceiling and domes could be constructed. This information was passed down from the head priest’s ancestors!

What strikes you first upon entering are the carved columns. Your eye flits from intricate detail to intricate detail trying to process the little shapes within the entirety of the whole. It took walking around the temple several times for me to gain a sense of balance.

After one calms down while looking at the columns, looking up started the overwhelming awe all over again.

Restorative cleaning must be an ongoing process. However, the detail in the center is one head with five bodies, symbolizing the five elements.

We hired the head priest of the temple to give us a short tour. It was great to have him as with his sense of understanding, he took a photo of us in front of a door carving (even though it was not allowed). His words: “just for a memory”. He also allowed us to take photos of the intricate carving.

The priest taking our photo which has a good sense of the building’s fullness.

The vine is carved so that there is no beginning and no end.

The figure on the left is the builder of the temple, on the right the architect. The builder asked that his figure face the main altar, not as a tribute to him. The architect was a farmer whose vision was an inspiration from heaven. By accident, I deleted the photo of the deliberately slanted column, because nothing made by man can be perfect.

This tree, located in the temple, is called the Ohm or Wishing Tree. Inside is a natural growth shaped like Ganesh, the god with the elephant head. The photo doesn’t totally capture the shape.

Seated on top of the elephant is the mother of Adinatha, the first prophet, who is the main focus of this temple.

While the temple is open for visitors during certain hours, there was still work being done.  One gentleman was making the flints for the temple lamps and one was grinding saffron and sandalwood for the anointing paste. 

Upon entering the temple you could buy flowers for offerings.

After I was satiated within the temple, it took longer than planned, I did a quick visit to the smaller temple dedicated to the second prophet of Jainism.  Equal in its attention to detail, but much smaller.  Non-Indians are not allowed inside.

Leaving the temple afforded us an opportunity to observe and photo this cute little guy as well as an artistic drain pipe.

The ride to and from Ranakpur had some wonderful moments as well.  First was seeing the vegetation change from desert-like to the lush green and mountains of an area that gets more rain.  Of course, we passed many a water buffalo and I found it fascinating that Happy honked only at dogs to get them out of the way! 

Most fascinating was passing four auto rickshaws transporting red clad ladies to a wedding.  At first, we thought they were wearing blue sleeves and asked about why.  I didn’t understand the answer about ‘throwing’ until I saw these photos and realized they were wearing blue, plastic bangles.  SO wish I could have seen how they were thrown.  The ladies were as thrilled to wave to us and be photographed, as I was to see them and snap away!

This car was standing still, hoping the monkey might leave the roof!

Here are a few more moments:

These were two separate herds: goats and sheep. I wondered if they were walking together as a coincidence or saving manpower!

The game is ‘how much can we fit on one vehicle’.
A much more modern way to bring home the food for water buffalo.

So, between the two safaris, campfire, and this adventure, the day was quite full.  However, stay tuned because the ride to and from the airport was amazing as well.  That blog post is next!

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