As Kevin and I were getting ready to leave for 6 nights in Sri Lanka, several governments issued credible warnings for terrorist attacks for Arugambe on the cost. So, we adjusted our itinerary and as a result probably had a much better experience in Sri Lanka than we originally planned.
Leaving India for Diwali is a fun experience if you are leaving the country, not if you are traveling within! The domestic lines were very long as travelers made their way home for the holidays (Diwali is like Christmas in the US). The short international lines check in lines were full of Muslims, Christians, Westerners, and a few agnostic Indians!
For those who have never visited Mumbai, Terminal 2 of the airport is like a museum filled with stunning artwork. Our gate was in the bowels of the airport, but we were pleasantly surprised to see this art gallery which I quickly explored before it was time to board.
The short flight to Colombo was over before we knew it (2-3 hours) and we quickly met our driver for the week: Asayla. Kevin sat silently soaking everything in, while I sat silently soaking everything in through the lens of my camera! The country is green and clean – EVERYWHERE. That is what struck us first and this impression stayed throughout the whole week. This is a young country, only getting true independence in 1971 when the name was changed from Ceylon to Sri Lanka (which means the island with everything).
The main industries in Sri Lanka haven’t changed much over the years: coconut, tea, cinnamon, gemstones, cashews – although now garment factories have been added to the export list. We drove through coconut groves and stopped to buy freshly roasted cashews on the side of the road. On the road were hundreds of fruit stalls and I never got tired of seeing bananas for sale on the vines! We crossed halfway through the island of Sri Lanka and arrived at our first destination: Anuradhapura (the first capital of ancient Sri Lanka). There are very few major highways in the country so the drive took longer than our plane ride but we were excited and ready for the vacation to start. After a quick meal in the hotel we went to our rooms to unpack and get ready for the next day’s adventures.
The sacred city of Anuradhapura (the first capital of Sri Lanka) was built around the cutting of the Bodhi tree where Buddha got enlightenment. The city is full of archeological wonders focusing on the Buddhist origins in Sri Lanka, which is the major religion in the country followed by Islam and Christianity. These sites are only located in the north central plains as the British were unable to get here and destroy the sites. That said, the archaeological department of Sri Lanka was started in 1934 under British rule. A real double-edged sword, just like in India.
We met our guide Ashok at the gate to the park, where he gave us a brief background to Buddhism the area. The son of the king Ashok (who ruled India from 268–232 BCE and was the reason Buddhism prospered in India) is credited with bringing Buddhism to Sri Lanka although this isn’t documented. This country is, however, the longest Buddhist civilization in the world. I did learn that karma is only created by conscious acts. So if you by accident kill a mosquito that is not bad karma, if you hurt something on purpose it is – Ashok also aptly described our lives as us ‘coming with nothing and we leave with nothing, we only take our Karma”. Needless to say, this is a pilgrimage site with few tourists and not one souvenir shop in sight.
The highlight of this area was the original tree where Buddha sat and got enlightenment. Cuttings of the tree were sent to Buddhist countries around the world in the 300s BC. If you recall from my blog about Bodh Gaya, the tree was destroyed by Hindu fanatics and a Sri Lankan king sent a cutting from his tree to be replanted in India. SO, I was looking at the ‘mother’ tree. It was a real ‘full circle’ moment for me. To hear about this cutting and to then see it was awe-inspiring. The fact that it was supported by golden posts highlighted its specialness.
We then went inside the temple connected to the tree:
Here are some moments I experienced while herepereinceome moments:
-there was a group standing and reciting prayers while holding a white string. I asked about this, and Ashok informed us they will then cut up the string joining them and wrap it around their wrists! What a communal prayer tradition, it reminded me of how we all eat from the same Chalice in Orthodoxy.
-as I finished taking some photos of the Buddha statue, trying not to interrupt praying, a woman gave me some flower petals which I added to the offering counter, saying a brief prayer of thanksgiving.
– I was very touched by this monk deep in prayer, oblivious to the noise and commotion around him. Deep meditation.
I asked what happened to all the donations given each day (there is A LOT) and was pleased to learn that food is given to animals, flowers to the earth for decomposing and material gifts to the monks.
Most monks live in the jungle, away from civilization and distraction, but this building is for older and ill monks so they can be near medical care.
Next, we viewed the remains of the Brazen Palace which had 1600 stone columns for its foundation and a copper roof. Centuries ago the building had 9 stories and while the wood has been burned or destroyed, the columns stand proud.
Yes, here are the requisite monkey photos: Gray Langurs hanging around a banyan tree. I enjoyed watching two youngsters fighting over food, with one clearly sending the message: this is MINE!
The flower of this tree, a stunning bloom I first saw in China, has the shape of a stupa deep inside. Its common name is Cannon Ball Flower.
Our next stop was the remains of the Mahaviharaya Alms room, where monks would come to collect donated food and return to their forest abodes to eat. The largest trough here, which was used for rice, is 45 feet in length and 2 feet deep! There was a smaller one which was for curry. In its prime, over 2000 monks lived in the area and ate here.
I hope my photos capture the immensity of the trough’s size.
As this is a working Buddhist holy area, every Saturday and Sunday evening, lamps are arranged in various designs and lit.
Next we visited the Ruwanwelisaya, a stupa built around 140 BC. While not the largest stupa in the world (contrary to what the guide said-unless google is wrong!), it has a diameter of 367 feet (112 m) at the base. Though the present height is estimated at 232 feet (71 m), the original height is supposed to have been 400 feet. Surrounding the stupa on the base are 376 elephants, 94 per side (added protection for the stupa). On the top is a large sapphire crystal recently replaced as the first one cracked. The first one is on display in one of the image rooms that surround the stupa. Once a week, the stupa is wrapped in monks’ cloth, which is then cut up for monks to wear. We were unable to see the wrapped stupa but seeing the cloth being collected was wonderful as well as noticing the rolled up cloth in several locations later.
The stupas in the area range in ages, there are even modern ones. The unpainted below is actually newer (2nd century AD) than some other stupas in the area.
All the stupas in Sri Lanka (at least) are solid, built over a relic of Buddha (or in more modern days some other relics) deep in the middle. This stupa has a bone of Buddha, although which bone is not identified. Placing holy relics inside was intentional by Kings so relics couldn’t be stolen by future by raiders or hunters, etc. Also of note is that stone tablets were left announcing who built the stupa, when and what is buried inside. It really helps historians accurately date these locations! This stupa was unearthed in the 1930s and restoration work was able to be accurate based on information recovered from the stone tablets. Modern stupas don’t have have any relics of Buddha inside them, but they do have gold and other relics excavated in the area.
We then visited an image room with a modern, reclining Buddha in the dying position (you know by the uneven toes). This room contains the oldest and first Buddha statues in Sri Lanka, made in the 1st century AD. Flanking the reclining Buddha are two Sri Lankan kings from the two main ethnic groups: Sinhalese and the Sri Lankan Tamils. The Tamil king is on the blue elephant and the Sinhalese on the red (he is the one who united Sri Lanka). Also found in most Buddhist shrines in Sri Lanka are Hindu idols, to protect from destruction from days when Hindus attacked.
Around this stupa are many modern offering tables, while the original one is encased in a fence for protection.
In one of the little rooms attached to the stupa we saw the rendering of the stupa created for the king’s approval (a practice still done by architects today). We also saw the original sapphire crystal and realized how huge it is (as tall as me, the photo doesn’t convey that). It rests on a solid gold pedestal with other precious gems and next to it is a gold meditating Buddha.
Once a year (between April and June) volunteers paint the stupa from the top to the bottom, using bamboo ladders. This vat is for mixing the white paint with lime and water so the paint will better adhere to the rock.
This is a good time to point out that one must walk barefoot in all these areas, as they are holy. Not a problem if the ground is ancient, for heat absorbing materials were used. When replaced by ‘modern’ stones, the ground burns your feet! After tolerating and surviving the fire, red-hot bricks near the beginning of the stupa, we cool our feet in a tiny tray of water and take a shortcut through a wood path, passing by a contemporary alms hall, where monks were listening to prayers while having their lunch. A magical moment, added to by seeing this young man wrapping the monk’s cloth.
After the grueling visit in the sun, we refreshed with some mini-bananas compliments of Asela and some coconut water.
We then visited a 3rd century BC stupa, the first after Buddhism came to Sri Lanka. In this stupa the right collarbone of Buddha is encased. The stone columns around the dome indicate it was covered by a wooden roof at one point.
We actually went around the stupa to see something more interesting, but best was seeing a Malabar Pied Hornbill. Quite an unusual animal. This is where my camera started acting up so I almost didn’t get a photo of it!
Surrounding this stupa was a large ayurvedic medical center, where we saw a medical ‘bowl’ for lying in while being given an essential oil treatment. The area was quiet and calm, and I wanted to record the echoing song of birds – who stopped the moment I turned on record. Clearly they have privacy issues.
As we drove to our next stop, we learned that all the lakes we see in Sri Lanka are man-made – dug when gathering soil for the bricks and clay for building, then filled over the centuries with rain water! Also, they are called tanks, not lakes.
Our last stop with Ashok was to a location with fascinating rock formations, including carvings that contain the oldest form of Sanskrit in the area. Originally the kings palace was located here, but when the king converted to Buddhism, he created the caves for monks to live in. There were up to 600 monks living here at one point. Also fascinating were these drip lines, which create a waterfall canopy for people inside. Fun aside: this was one of the locations for the Temple of Doom Indiana Jones movie! This site has the original steps as well as evidence of where people carved into this giant rock to make a man-made cave. You can also see there is a lot still to be excavated!
Lunch was at a hotel that caters to westerners and while the meal was not Sri Lankan, the food was excellent and the ambiance perfect.
We arrived at Mihintale, another sacred area within this city. At the entrance are 68 caves where monks used to live.
We started by visiting the Singha Pokuna, where aside from the ancient water spout Asela demonstrated for us, there were monkeys pruning. I loved seeing how the mother was taking care of the child: totally reminded me of a human mother checking her chid’s hair for lice. The adult male looked like he was in a state of bliss. At one point his eyes rolled up in his head!
We started by exploring the perimeter around the base of the mountain.
We opted against a tour guide as we didn’t expect to climb up to the top. but the views enticed and we made it, with me being totally annoyed at the young whippersnappers run past me up the stairs! During the last 100 steps (Kevin being way ahead of me) other people of my age were encouraging each other on! We made it to the top with a glorious breeze, peaceful atmosphere, and expansive views. Totally worth it! We totally enjoyed walking slowly around and relishing this space.
The first stupa at the top is called Sela Stupa. It was built on the spot where Buddha is said to have meditated on his third visit to Sri Lanka.
This is the view from this area, before we climbed the last 100 steps. We opted against the rock and went the stupa route.
There were two lovely stupas at the top, the first being the Mihindu Stupa.
The temple at the top was dedicated to the reclining, dying Buddha.
While I thought the views were spectacular before I climbed the last 100 steps, up here they were phenomenal!
Added to the atmosphere are two monks on the site who collect donations from locals (who do not have to pay for admission). After receiving a donation, they recite blessings for a good life in a sing-song tone that permeates the atmosphere.
We headed back to the hotel and collapsed, with my fit bit saying only 12,000 steps however, most were stairs!
