Not all great travel happens in India!  As I head back from my much-enjoyed summer vacation, I realized there were many experiences worthy of a blog post!  Aside from quality family time, I was able to explore some new places and visit some old favorites with fresh eyes.

First was a reunion in California with great friends from when I worked and lived in the Bay Area.  The ten of us rented a house in beautiful Bodega Bay and had 4 days of laughter, good food and drink, nature and games.  I won’t bore you with photos of that (other than one of us sitting around and chatting), but will share the photos I took of the flora and fauna of the area.

The gang

The views and the house…amazing!

The birds, as always, intrigued me.

Glaring at the intrusion of my lens to his day.

Between meals we managed to drag ourselves out of the house and visit the town of Bodega, where The Birds was filmed.

What was the schoolhouse in the movie, is a private home.

The hill/road, which looks so big and looming in the movie is really quite small!
The church still stands and is functioning

Next up, my daughter Sophia joined me in California and we visited some more friends, as well as the Marin Headlands and Muir Woods. These two places never get old, the views are stunning and its hard to believe such beauty exists so close to a major city and civilization.

Riding over the Golden Gate Bridge always gives me a thrill.

My favorite view of the dry grass on the hills of Marin County.

Next up was visiting Sonoma County. The main goal was to have a meal at Folktable, a restaurant where the executive chef is a Top Chef alumni (Sophia and I are big fans of the show). Casey Thompson creates seasonally inspired menus with ingredients locally sourced. This restaurant, recipient of the Michelin Bib Gourmand award, has incredible food that blew us away.

Unimposing on the outside…
Called, The Best Potato flake onion rings…and they were!
Miso Eggplant
…yet beautiful on the inside.
Smoked fish
Crispy Chicken Schnitzel

While waiting for our reservation, we happened to pass by the Gloria Ferrer sparkling winery. We were unable to have a tasting (booked solid) but the real treat was sitting in chairs under a tree and soaking in the stunning view.

Earlier in the day we had a scheduled visit to Buena Vista winery. I chose this as it was the original winery in Sonoma, so there was a historical significance. The tour guide was quite good, the video a big disappointment, the wine as expected. We did enjoy going though a maze though and I was able to take some fun pictures, which included a very large eucalyptus tree.

Entrance to the maze

We had an opportunity to briefly explore downtown Sonoma.  Sophia, not as interested in history as me, opted out of the Sonoma Mission visit.  I learned a lot about the great state of California while teaching its history to grade 4 students.  One aspect that intrigued me was the mission system set up by the Spanish.

These 21 missions, starting in San Diego and ending in Sonoma, were spaced approximately 30 miles apart, which was a day’s travel at the time.  This allowed for a guaranteed place to stay as well to solidify Spain’s hold on the territory and for the church to work on converting local inhabitants.  Such motivations today are suspect but I was into looking at the architecture and was enamored by the music playing in the chapel.

If you listen carefully you will hear lovely choral music.

The next day was a lot more fun as we explored Napa and visited two wineries, pre-booked (something you need to do if visiting).  Visiting wineries is not like in the old days when we went and tried a glass of wine for free (or a minimal cost) with a tour explaining the wine making process.  Today you pay a large amount of money (ranging from $30-70) for the privilege of sitting and drinking – as well as paying for food.  That said, the two places we visited did not disappoint.

First, we visited Honig Wineries (due to their connection with honey making which is a favorite of Sophia’s).  We learned the word honig in German means honey!  This is a family-run winery, and Governor Honig (who was in office when I lived in California) is part of this family and lives on the estate.  Part of our package was a tour of the vineyards where we learned a lot about wine making and this family’s commitment to eco-friendly farming.  Some interesting tidbits I learned were 1) growing vines near each other promotes competition between the plants and results in better yields, 2) if a white wine is in a green bottle the vintner is sending you a message that this is high quality white wine and can be aged, and 3) foil is not needed anymore for preserving wine so therefore they discontinued this practice in 2021.  Anyone who still uses foil on the cork does so for sentimental reasons.

While a lot of work is done with machines, a lot is still done by hand at the better wineries.

Honig makes honey and these are some of the hives, however, they get a lot of honey from other apiarists.

The winery logo includes a bee, of course!

Some humor in the bathroom.

This picture shows the types scenery you get to enjoy while taking wine.

A wind fan to protect the grapes from frost.

This family run winery is very team oriented. This is a photo gallery of all the employees, including the family.

These lemon truffles paired extremely well with the white wine.

One of the ways the winery works with local universities who track the birds.
Damn good wine!

On the way to our next location we stopped in Napa for a snack.  We checked out the Culinary Institute but the place didn’t impress us, other than this cool sculpture.

We ended up exploring the infamous Oxbow Public Market, a hodgepodge of stalls selling lots in gourmet items, artisans’ work, and one the best stocked bookstores I have ever seen (Napa Bookmine).  We indulged in some cornbread from Moro, which is a stall inspired by Moroccan street food.  It did not disappoint, and the dipping sauce/butter was particularly tasty and unique.

Seeing this spice store tempted me to buy Indian spices in California for my Indian friends, but decided against it!

Our exploration of Napa Valley ended with a tasting at Domaine Carneros, the sister winery of Taittinger’s.  Opened in 1988, the building is a replica of the country home and estate of the Taittinger family.   Carneros is the region between Napa and Sonoma valleys and is a newer wine growing zone, especially liked due to its cool climate and foggy mornings.  The setting was quite lovely (complete with a couple who had just become engaged), and we indulged in an expensive sparkling wine tasting (crafted in the traditional method) and paired food.  This indulgence included smoked sturgeon pate and a cheese plate with local artisanal cheeses – to die for delicious.

Gourmand birds eating the scraps at the chataeux.

Then we started the long drive to Sonora where we spent the night before entering Yosemite National Park. The drive, through the Central Valley – flat and full of farms, was uneventful but did afford me time to reflect on the diverse topography of California and reminded me how much I loved living here. We Googled breakfast places and Mandy’s was advertised as the best…it was. Highly recommend it should you be in the area. A bit of a drive out of town but WORTH IT!.

Pretty much the same view for the entire drive.

While we were driving towards Yosemite Sophia discovered that there was a tour one could take which turned out to be one of the best decisions of our travels.  The park ranger was funny, engaging and extremely knowledgeable (of course, a former teacher).  Since our time was limited in the park, this allowed us to see the majority of the valley and learn a lot about the nature and history of the park.

Sophia’s dream was to see El Capital as she has always loved the Academy Award winning documentary Free Solo, which documented the rope-free climb by Alex Honnold.  The view didn’t disappoint nor did the facts we learned about him and the climb.  Unusually, there were no climbers the day we were there, but it was awe-inspiring to see this hallowed mountain for climbers, quite humbling when you observe how huge it is.  We saw the forest hill where the climbers descend and learned that it is illegal to parasail/kite in the park but at times you can see adrenaline junkies do this, landing and then running away to a waiting car.  One enthusiast said he has the fine money in the bank should he ever get caught!

El Capitan

Half Dome is the other famous Yosemite mountain, and I learned about the Three Brothers during this visit.

Another highlight is Yosemite falls, the highest waterfall in North America (2,450 feet) and 5th highest in the world.

There were other stunning waterfalls as well, with interesting names: Bridal Veil and Ribbon!

Amazing how much water flows every day.

I was enamored by rock formations, mountains made of rock and a few hearty trees growing. God’s artistry at work.

Included in this valley of beauty were fields and the Merced River, with water so clear you can see the rocks and fish without difficulty.  It was in a field that we saw our only wildlife: a Mike Deer.  You can often see bears, but we were not lucky.

Mike Deer

A huge flood in 1997

A highlight of the tour was driving up to view the valley from above.  

This artist sold one of his painting to someone on our tour!

The only place the National Park service in  Yosemite will start fires or cut down trees is in areas where there are people, for their protection against forest fires ravaging the area.

We learned if the branches grow straight out, it is a White Pine. If droopy, it’s a Douglas.  We also learned to tell the difference between a regular pine and a Sequoia – the bottom swells out on a Sequoia.

Two different trees naturally grafted together.  Look carefully at the bark.

Our visit ended with visiting the historic Ahwahnee, a luxury hotel within the valley.  This is considered an architectural masterpiece, blending with the surroundings and affording you views of Half Dome and Yosemite Falls.  The Grand Dining Room wasn’t open for lunch, so we ate in the bar – a delicious meal, excellent service and yummy Lavender lemonade!  

After that whirlwind visit, we continued on to San Francisco where we had 24 hours to soak in the essence of the city.  We were pretty tired and kept a slow but focused pace.  We were staying at the Hyatt across the street from the Giants’ baseball stadium where we saw memorials to the great Willy Mays, who had died that week.

First order of business was seeing the sea lions on pier 39.  These gentle giants first appeared after the 1990 earthquake and quickly became a profitable sightseeing spot for local businesses, so they were allowed to stay.  Experts at the Marine Mammal Center believe they like it here because there is plenty of food, it’s comfortable to rest and most importantly there is protection from predators like sharks and orcas.  We watched as the large group were jumping in and out of the water, vying for space and barking for various reasons.  However, I was drawn to the two ‘loners’ who understood the power of calm and quiet.  One was sunning himself on his own dock and one was swimming away from the rest of the animals.

Tourist stores galore!

The day also included walking around Fisherman’s Wharf where Sophia bought Ben his birthday present and I got SF’s finest Ghirardelli chocolate for my teachers.

Lunch took us to the Presidio (a former military base, converted to home bases for various non-profit and other such businesses) for lunch at Dalida, our second Top Chef restaurant experience.  This was even more special because Laura -who own the restaurant with her husband- was on this season and finished 4th.  The food was good, as expected, but the best was meeting Laura – who came out and spent 15 minutes with us chatting.  When Sophia said we had visited Turkey (Laura’s husband is Turkish and much of the menu has this cuisine) she exclaimed ‘that is why you connect with me – I focus on blending cultures through food’.

I indulged in an amazing cocktail with lavender, mint and some other Turkish spices and a great glass of wine (I wasn’t driving!).  The mezza plate was yummy, but the highlight was the dessert – a deconstructed baklava that she re-created on Top Chef.  Needless to say, the service and ambiance was exceptional.

Our time in San Francisco ended with a boat trip around the bay, a real highlight – especially going under the Golden Gate Bridge.  It was quite windy, but the sky cleared as we floated along.  The sights were beautiful and watching a kite-boarder (I don’t know the official name of the sport) was impressive. 

Alcatraz

Cityscape while sitting in the warm cabin!

Quite the athlete.

Two different impressions as a result of the sun’s angle.

As always, I end this portion of the blog with street art and a photo of the largest dog I have ever seen!

Upon returning to New York, there were three excursions that are worthy of being posted on this blog.  The first was a visit to the Hopper House Museum in my hometown of Nyack, NY where this illustrious artist was born.   I had known about this museum for many years (it opened in the 1970s) and it only took 64 years to finally visit. My older sister came up to NY for the weekend and we wanted to do something different, hence the visit.  This is a small museum and while it doesn’t really have a lot of Hopper art on display (other than some childhood works the family hung), it displays other artists’ work and there is an exceptional video narrated by Steve Martin explaining Hopper’s significance as an artist and how his ideas impacted modern art in the US.

Hopper’s bedroom.  The view out the window, although obstructed today by taller trees, more houses and electricity wires, looks out onto the Hudson River.  A view I would love to wake up to!

Two homes I have lived in as a child had the exact same banister, clearly a popular style in the late 1800s!

Born towards the end of the 19th century, Hopper was a Nyack resident until he started commuting to NY for college and eventually work.  He even graduated from Nyack High School!  His talent was evident early on, as was his desire to be an artist for he started signing and dating his work from the age of 10!  His mother encouraged his talent and culture was an important part of their household.

Signed and dated!
Notice the question mark next to his name and ‘artist’!
This pastel, Back of Hopper House (date unknown), hung at the top of the stairs and is back there today, returned after the death of his pastor to whom the art was gifted.

Hopper is considered the embodiment of the authentic American artist.  He focuses on the interplay between light and location, and he remained true to realism even while impressionism was in vogue (although his use of light was influenced by this movement).

Hopper enjoyed etching as well and used this media to explore light and shadow, which forever influenced his painting.  He is quoted as saying “After I took up etching, my painting seemed to crystalize”.  His sense of mystery and storytelling blossomed, as did the themes of the isolation and lack of privacy in urban life .  His works tell a story and give you a sense of peeking into a someone’s life.  Just like authors and actors create back stories to add depth to their work, Hopper (and his wife) did the same, giving names to the anonymous subjects.  This resulted in the viewer’s needing to combine their eyes and their imagination when reflecting on his urban scenes.  As the viewer we need to finish the story. Hopper also used light and detail intentionally to draw your attention, he painted details only where he wanted your eyes to go. 

One of the etchings that developed his painting style.

These are some of my favorite pieces by him, most I downloaded from the internet.

Hopper’s interest in maritime themes started early on and continued through his life.  The docks on the Hudson River (which he could see from his bedroom window) were a common source of inspiration.

Yachting Scene, 1905
Light at Two Lights, Whitney Museum, 1929
Ground Swell, National Gallery of Art, 1939.
Night Hawks, Art Institute of Chicago, 1942
From their website: “About Nighthawks Edward Hopper recollected, “unconsciously, probably, I was painting the loneliness of a large city.” In an all-night diner, three customers sit at the counter opposite a server, each appear to be lost in thought and disengaged from one another. The composition is tightly organized and spare in details: there is no entrance to the establishment, no debris on the streets. Through harmonious geometric forms and the glow of the diner’s electric lighting, Hopper created a serene, beautiful, yet enigmatic scene. Although inspired by a restaurant Hopper had seen on Greenwich Avenue in New York, the painting is not a realistic transcription of an actual place. As viewers, we are left to wonder about the figures, their relationships, and this imagined world.”
Automat, Des Moines Art Center in Iowa, 1927
Chop Suey, 1929.  Bought by an anonymous person at a Christie’s auction in 2018 for $92 million – breaking records at the time.
Early Sunday Morning, 1930, Whitney Museum. From their website: “One of Edward Hopper’s most iconic paintings. Although he described this work as “almost a literal translation of Seventh Avenue,” Hopper reduced the New York City street to bare essentials.”
Night Windows, Museum of Modern Art, 1928.  From their website: “Attending to private affairs in her apartment, the anonymous woman in Night Windows is unaware of any viewer’s gaze. The painting exposes the voyeuristic opportunities of the modern American city, and the contradiction it offers between access to the intimate lives of strangers and urban loneliness and isolation.“   It is what we might see from the elevated subway train of the time.

Married to a fellow artist, whose work is below, Josephine was an ardent promotor and catalogued his work.

The contemporary artist on display, Dike Blair, was influenced by Hopper’s fascination with cinema and narrative in paintings.  He used his own point-and-shoot photographs and paintings to offer his own narratives where light is the character, blending realism with the unreality of movies. These are the two pieces that spoke to me.

We leave the Hopper House Museum with this quote, painted on the stairway wall.

Another gem of a museum is the Bruce Museum in Greenwich, Ct.  My brother, sister-in-law and I decided to go there due to the Andy Warhol exhibit, which was nice – but there was so much more to see!

The Warhol exhibit was called Small is Beautiful and contained 100 pieces.  They covered the span of his career and had examples from his prominent subject matter: celebrity, consumerism, flowers, and Catholicism (including death).

I learned that Warhol’s interest in fame was both a concept and a personal goal, with his portraits evolving from celebrities, politicians to himself and fellow artists.

Sidney Janis, 1977. A renowned art collector and dealer (an early supporter of Warhol).  Created as part of a series of his family.

These two pieces were created during the height of the AIDS epidemic and aside from dealing with the impact of death, he focused on the moralistic assault directed at gay men by the media.

 
Shadow, 1980 depicts his foray into Abstraction.  I just liked the composition.

Oxidation, 1979. These paintings were made with an experimental method of applying urine to canvases primed with copper-infused paint.  The chemical reaction resulted in this work.  Artistically this was meant to parallel and parody Abstract Expressionism.

Flowers, 1964 was created when a gallery asked him to ‘make something nice’ for one of his first exhibits.  He took a photograph by Patricia Caulfield he saw in Modern Photography, cropped the image and eliminated most details.  He created 900 canvases with this.

Hammer and Sickle, 1976. Here Warhol combined the Communist emblem with tools purchased in the US, leaving their labels visible.  This ‘subversive’ piece got him put on the FBI’s watchlist!

One of many self-portraits.

 
This is fascinating as you can see his pencil sketches.

Then the unexpected happened as we walked into the adjoining gallery and saw the William Richter Collection of Barbizon and Impressionist paintings.  Barbizon painters were the first to go outside, rebelling against idealizing natural form and painting what they saw in a less formal manner.  From these innovators Impressionism grew.  Here we see Corot who convinced Pissarro to paint outside, who then influenced Gaugin!  Even John Singer Sargent, known best for portraits, joined in the movement and went outside to paint.  There was a Renoir here, as well as a Cezanne and a Rousseau!  In one small room I was able to soak in some of the greatest masters of the era, seeing paintings I had not seen before.

A Farm in St Martin du Bon Fosse, near Saint-Lo, Corot, 1833

The Path, Gaugin, 1884

Renoir, 1889
Factory on the Banks of the Oise River, Pissarro, 1873

The Millet House and Garden, Sargent, 1886

Bather from Behind, Cezanne, 1877-8

View of the Outskirts of Paris, Rousseau, 1900

Learning this about Matisse’s daughter was astounding. Clearly a formidable woman!

Marguerite in a Fur Hat, Matisse, 1917-1918

Across the room, some Surrealistic works influenced by Freud and Marx were hanging.

A Glimpse of Enthusiastic Activity, Paul Klee, 1938.  Here Klee is able to depict movement with simple stick figures!
Max Ernst was a new painter for me, and I was enamored by his painting Bird Cemetery, 1953.

Then there was an exhibit on David Hockney, a Pop Artist I was not that familiar with either, focusing on his earlier works. Being Greenwich, Ct, these pieces were from the private collection of local residents, Roy B. and Edith J. Simpson.

Panama Hat depicts the portrait of Gelzahler without him being in the composition.  The museum writes “This unconventional portrait plays with the ideas of presence and absence, an underlying theme in several of the artist’s compositions, especially his well-known painting from the mid-1960w that feature the splashes in pools left by unseen figures.”

I absolutely fell in love with this piece called A Grand Procession of Dignitaries in the Semi-Egyptian Style, 1961, which Hockney competed while a student at the Royal College of Art, in London.

Probably predecessors of his later pool paintings, Hockney collaborated with a printer to make paper on a hydraulic press where the colors were infused into the pulp.  Since he was limited to the size of the press, his innovative solution was to create sheets based on his sketched and then he put the pieces together.  He was working on how to depict the pictorial effects of light, color and movement, in water – with the different sheets of paper helping to convey the distortion water creates.

Diving Board with Shadow, 1978

Swimmer Underwater, 1978

This installation by Tana Donovan (called Aggregations), which made me want to curl up in the soft fluffy cotton-ball looking balls, is actually made of glass rods!  Her work takes every day objects and re-creating them into something new and unique.

Next up…a room with the mineral collection of Robert R. Wiener, whose fascination started at age 7, and resulted in the largest collection (4000 pieces), many of which were displayed.  These pieces were works of art.  I learned that each mineral tells its own story as the structure, color and growth are a combination of their atomic composition and its interaction with chemistry, heat, pressure and spacing.

Next a quick walk through two more rooms – one dedicated to how man and nature protect themselves and one a hands-on animal exhibit for kids.

Puffer fish skeleton

There was an exhibit of art by incredibly talented high school students. Here is a sampling. The students range from 9th to 12th grade.

Last and without a doubt NOT least, was an installation created by Jennifer Angus.  This was an immersive experience made out of insects…thousands of them arranged into ornate patterns and pictures.  The work is a piece within a piece within a piece – almost too much to take in. You get the whole then you step closer and you get details, but you can’t process every detail because there are so many of them.

The museum writes, “The Golden Hour is a site-specific exhibition inspired by the enchanting glow of the day’s final rays of sunlight, surrounded by nature’s fleeting richness on the cusp of biodiversity’s twilight.  She invites visitors on a winding journey through three chambers of wonder.  In The Village, dollhouses tower overhead while insect beckon like stained glass windows.  In Cabinet of Curiosities, insects stage dozens of intriguing scenes ranging from executions to coronations.  Finally, as the light fades, other animals gather at The Dinner Party, poised in eleventh-hour deliberations of our ongoing climate crisis.”

A Google search (jenniferangus.com) brought me to her website where I learned she is Canadian, only does site specific works, and she reuses insects and other natural objects (some are 20 years old).  “Drawing upon my background in textile design, I often place insects upon walls in patterns which mimic those of textiles and wallpaper. This strategy lulls the viewer into complacency, for at a distance the designs suggest an interior, perhaps even a domestic space. However, upon discovery that the ornate patterns are formed of insects, viewers’ feelings typically fluctuate between incredulity and amazement, and very occasionally terror. Herein lies the power of the work as the observer is confronted with considering insects in a new light.”  I can say my reaction fell in the amazement category.

Next ….July 4th, my brother’s gig and some random moments. Stay tuned!

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