After a good night’s sleep and a normal wake up time, we head off to see the sights of this holy city for Buddhists. Our first, and most important spot is Mahabodhi (Mahavihara) Temple, the site where Buddha achieved enlightenment. One is not allowed to drive up to the entrance and while there was the option of a horse-drawn carriage, we opted for the simple auto-rickshaw/tuk-tuk that was waiting where we parked the car. While waiting I snapped these photos but opted not to take a photo of the man I bought water from. Why you ask? He was high as a kite! The smell of pot reeked, and I only mention this because this State is a dry state – you are not even allowed to bring in liquor from another state. However, humans always find ways to compensate!
Some more colorful cars in town!
But I digress. We met our guide and entered the complex. Interesting, phones are not allowed but cameras ARE. So, while I was able to get great photos I could not write down or remember all the interesting information I learned from the guide. I ended up buying a book from which I gleaned the information for this blog post. To cite the book, it is called Bodhgaya: The Sacred Place of Buddhists by Shanti Swaroop Baudh.
According to this book, Prince Siddhartha was banned from his kingdom because he fell into dispute with the army (arbitrary intervention into army affairs) because he proposed peace and didn’t think one should fight over a river as it is a natural resource and belongs to everyone. He had a choice of several punishments: be a soldier, execution, banishment, social boycott of his family (the royal family), or confiscation of agrarian lands. He chose banishment and left with his horse and charioteer Channa (who later returned to explain to the family of his quest for truth). For me, this explained why he left his family to search for peace and this wasn’t perceived as a selfish act.
At this time, he was 29. Since even before banishment he was searching for peace, this focused his search and along the way met several gurus and gained 5 followers but did not find his answers, so he decided to find it himself. While he was mediating and participated in 6 years of penance, he had a dream where three maidens were playing an instrument called the Veena. One was strung so tight, the sound produced hurt ears. One string so loose there was no sound. The third was strung just right and produced harmonious sounds. Siddhartha took this as a vision and a moral. He concluded it was not wise to punish one’s own person through penance and starvation. Rather, one must have a proper diet as one could find success in meditation only through one’s body. Thus was born his doctrine of the middle path.
I am now going to alter my usual pattern of writing about my excursions in order. Rather, I will write them in order of Buddha’s life. First, the cave where Buddha meditated for 6 years.
The drive to the cave was a highlight for me as we passed a farming village. Aside from being very picturesque it offered a glimpse into the life of farmers. Driving through the community, which is clearly separated from the whole world, looks rural and simple – indicative of the hard life of farmers. Yet there were satellite dishes, electricity, and joy abounded- except as we returned for everyone was just hanging out waiting for the heat of the day to go away.
I loved how there were so many ways to dry dung for fuel.
There were brand new baby goats but I couldn’t get a good photo of them. Here are a few other goat shots, including one where the baby is drinking the mother’s milk.
We arrived at the location for the cave, which was a nice hike up the hill. In the heat, it was brutal but I wanted the steps and opted against being carried up! This might have been a mistake because even though I drank water I had a headache for the rest of the day. There was a sign saying the road was built in 2005. As this (for some reason) is not a very popular destination, villagers were begging. It was hard not to give money but the guide angrily complained about all they get from the government. Another example of how every day Indians feel about the beggars. However, one scam we participated in was buying a crate of packaged cookies and the young man (who gave me a stick to use while walking) went with us and handed out the packages to everyone we met. Zeeshan and I wondered how many cookies are actually eaten and how many are traded in for cash!
The view at the top was beautiful.
Aside from some shops, this is clearly a mini-monastery but the monks were not around, probably also resting from the brutal sun and having lunch.
The compound was very Tibetan in feeling and architecture. Outside the actual cave was a grotto with a lovely meditating Buddha statue. However, inside the cave was mystical. The emaciated Buddha was powerful. The man sitting inside was collecting ‘gifts’ and allowed me to take his photo.
While here, it was a drastic cut in diet and severe penance weakened Siddhartha to such an extent he was unable to stand or walk far. After these six years Siddhartha gained nothing towards his quest but he did have the dream I mentioned earlier and left the area. This brings us to our next stop. He crossed this river, the Neranjana (known as the Nilajane today), and settled under a tree in the lotus position.
As he mediated under a tree a servant of Sujata (the daughter of a local landowner) saw him and took him to be a tree god and implored her mistress to go to him as she was due to give thanks for the blessing of a child after many years of barrenness. She was impressed with Siddhartha and arrived with Kheer (sweetened rice in milk). At this point he was a Bodhisatta, one who has attained nirvana and on the way to enlightenment. Sujata’s house is semi-restored and shows how rich people in the past had round houses with a stupa in the center. The lower sections around the stupa is where the living quarters were.
The Sujata Garh was constructed to commemorate her residence. Excavations in 1973-74 yielded an inscription dating the original structure from the 8th and 9th century.
The Sujata Temple, where Buddha was under the Banyan tree was a short distance away and houses an orphanage school. There are many idols depicting this auspicious moment, the latest donated by a family in 1993. Everyone who comes can try the Kheer given to Siddhartha (sweetened rice in milk). It was delicious.
And now, this brings us full circle to our starting point where Siddhartha, now Bodhisatta, becomes fully enlightened and Buddha.
Dominating the compound is the stupa of the main temple. Ornate and at the same time imposing yet calming, this has been re-built on the location connected to the tree where Buddha sat. King Asoka was the first to recognize the holiness of the tree and develop this area as a holy site, constructing the border wall. This was around 250 BC. The Mahabodhi Mahavihara is estimated to have been built in the 2nd century AD with coins with its image confirming it was in existence during the reign of King Hiviska. Archaeologists confirm the inner sanctum gold Buddha was built in 380 AD. The Turkish invasion (and depending on the guide it is called Muslim and or Moghul invasion) resulted in destruction of a lot of the Mahabodhi Mahavihara. The base of the stupa is the original and pieces of the original stupas and towers dot the compound, along with offerings left by pilgrims from all corners of the world. From the book I learned that the excavations done under Cunningham’s direction were not without trouble. When money was running short, General Cunningham had to tell the British government that if they won’t pay, the French or Portuguese will! Also, the Burmese were always willing to pay and do the excavation but the book implied they weren’t doing a good job. Formal excavations were from 1877-1880.
The history of this location is rife with conflict, power plays and politics as ruler after ruler claimed it as their own. This conflict continues to this day as the ‘owner’ is the Hindi mahanda, big wig. Interesting, there is one Hindu temple near the main stupa and it break the symmetry of the compound because of its location and architecture.
The details along the rim of the stupa were stunning. The green tinged with gold mini-Buddha statues captivated me and my eye kept returning to them.
Here are some of the remains of the original stupas, now decorated and dotted around the compound.
The oldest structures on the compound are some of the posts of the fence, with reproductions finishing the stone wall.
Excavations revealed this gate.
The gold Buddha statue inside the stupa was stunning, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. Serene, the statue emanates a sense of peace and calm.
The most interesting information I learned was that after his enlightenment in the year 589 BC , Buddha spent seven weeks meditating in seven locations on the compound, as he refused to stay in one place so as not to become too attached to the location and therefore focus on the process. Thanks to the book I bought I was able to identify each of the seven landmarks.
He spent the first week remaining under the shade of the Peepul (Sacred Fig) Tree where he attained enlightenment. This location, the hub of all the energy, was surrounded by a golden fence and many pilgrims were praying – some monks and some novices with a book to help guide them.
The original tree was damaged once by accident during excavation and once by anger, but luckily a Sri Lankan princess had taken a cutting. Thus the tree is the 5th generation of the original tree. Cuttings from this tree have been transported to Buddhists countries all over the globe.
Week 2: Animesalocana Cetiya is designed after the main stupa and here Buddha was so blissful he looked at the tree for a week without blinking.
Week 3: This week was spent walking and this strip represents the path he took. It also represents the path all Buddhists are on and often devotees will pray here.
Week 4: This week is represented by wonderful statue of Buddha. It represents his knowledge, which was made into a gem and is enshrined inside as Buddha’s heart.
Week 5 was spent under the Ajapala Nirodha tree where Buddha’s famous statement about actions vs birth was spoken.
Week 6 was spent under the shade of a Mucalinda tree near Mucalinda lake. This is a symbolic lake as the real one is 1 km away. The Buddha statue has a serpent king over him, for when meditating the demon tried to distract him and was unsuccessful so the demon, in the form of a snake, protected him so Buddha could mediate without disruption.
This is also a holy spot for Hindus who can come here to venerate their ancestors. Like in Varanasi there are priests here to help prepare the offerings and guide the process.
During his 7th and final week he basked in his Buddhahood before deciding to head to Varanasi to give his first sermon.
Below are some of the many votive stupas that dot the compound.
The Bell of Dhamma weighs about 2250kg and is a gift from Japanese businessman. It is still rung every day at 6am, 5pm and noon. Unfortunately we didn’t get to hear it.
The next set of photographs represent how marvelous this whole compound is.
These beautiful reliefs were on the wall as we were leaving. I have no idea what they represent.
Throughout the city, there are numerous monasteries and temples from various Buddhist countries.
We only had time to visit one, a unique Thai shrine called Metta Buddharam Temple, where there was a statue of King Ashoka!
The day ended with a walk near the entrance to the compound to see if there was anything interesting to buy. There wasn’t, but I learned how these outdoor stands are protected at night!
Thus ended this intense but fascinating journey to Varanasi and Bodh Gaya. At the airport there was this list of who get to by-pass security. I imagine this is to prevent tantrums by those unsure of the rules who think they are important enough!
