Tatz's Travels Around the World

Sunday started with going to church…well, visiting various historic churches. As a matter of fact, Rhode Island was founded in 1636 by Roger Williams as a haven for religious freedom and the proponent for the concept of separation of church and state (now embedded in the Constitution).  He, along with other religious dissidents like Anne Hutchinson, formed the settlement of Portsmouth. The southern part of the island became the separate settlement of Newport after disagreements among the founders (how novel, religious disagreements).  Not surprisingly, this resulted in many denominations building religious shrines in Newport.

First up, The Great Friends Meeting House, the gathering site for Quakers, or the Religious Society of Friends. This Christian movement, founded in the 17th century by George Fox, emphasized direct experience with God, as well as social justice. While closed this morning, the original building was built in 1699 and is now a museum. The Quakers were at first rejected by their neighbors due to their simple form of worship and life, as well as their belief in “no religious authority save the Holy Spirit.”  Luckily, the Governor at the time, Benedict Arnold (yes, the same Benedict Arnold who was later hanged for spying), refused to expel them, and over time they gained social, political and economic prominence. The Meeting House is able to hold 500 people and was used as the site of the Quakers’ Annual Meeting until 1895.  One last factoid, when restorations were being made, it was discovered the structure was built directly over an historic, indigenous site.  When I return to Newport in better weather, I hope to see if this is being honored in the museum.

While our next stop was not a church, it was on the way to the next one. We stopped at the famous Cliff Walk entrance.  However, the chilling temperature and frigid wind – not to mention having to step over piles of snow, resulted in a few photos from the car.  Had we walked, we would have seen the stunning shoreline, nature and architectural history of the Gilded Age.

Next, the beautiful St Mary’s Church, a Roman Catholic Gothic Revival cathedral built in 1828. The parish grew rapidly, fueled by the rise of Irish immigrants and is flourishing to this day.  The adjoining cemetery was the first consecrated Catholic burial ground in Rhode Island.

While there were many society weddings held here, the church is most famous for hosting the wedding of Jacqueling Bouvier and John F. Kennedy (who was a senator at the time) in 1953. Pew #10 is where they always sat when attending services.  Their wedding included 800 distinguished guests and over 2000 spectators cheering outside.  I was pleased to read that Jackie’s beautiful gown was designed by an African American designer named Ann Lowe. The Archbishop of Boston presided and there was a special blessing from the Pope.

The highlight of this morning was visiting Trinity Church.  This active Episcopalian Church was founded in 1698 by those fleeing religious persecution, with the current structure being finished in 1726.  This building is notable for its wooden steeple and unique three-tiered pulpit (the lone surviving three-tiered wine-glass pulpit in the world). As the pulpit is the focal point of the interior design, it symbolizes the church’s historical emphasis on both preaching and the Eucharist. The simple Georgian architecture and plain interior were very soothing to the soul, allowing the stunning stained glass to take center stage for me, while I imagined praying was foremost for parishioners of old.

This building has seen many distinguished visitors over the centuries, including George Washington, Queen Elizabeth II and Bishop Desmond Tutu. Had there not been a service going on when went inside, I would have been able to see the plaque honoring their visit and where they sat.

What I loved was seeing ‘boxes’ rather than pews. A real historical touch.  Due to the service going on, the lovely and kind usher said I was free to walk around but opened a room for me should I want to stay.  I did stay for a little while, hearing the reading of the day (read, not chanted like I am used to), listening to the beautiful choir and organ. I got up as the Rev Canon Meaghan Kelly Brower started her sermon.  I know she noticed, but we were in a bit of a time crunch and I figured it was better to leave as she started talking….not while, should she think it was WHAT she was saying that caused me to get up.

The church has the original 18^th century glass, but what I noticed were these two exquisite examples of stained glass, made more beautiful by the sun shining through. The one dedicated to Cornelius Vanderbilt was done by Calyton and Bell.   Without a doubt the one dedicated to Mary Rhinelander Stewart was by Louis Comfort Tiffany.  The nuance of color and detail were outstanding.

Connected to the church was an old cemetery, which unfortunately I could not explore due to the snow.

We then drove by the Touro Synagogue, also not open.  The synagogue, built in 1763, is the only surviving synagogue in the US dating to the colonial era, and is the oldest synagogue still standing in the US.  It is currently an Orthodox Jewish congregation. Of interest to the non-religious person is how its positioning does not follow the grid surrounding it: the face of the exterior faces East, to Jerusalem.  I wish we could have gone in as this is considered architect Peter Harrison’s (a British immigrant) most notable work.  The building interior columns are each carved from a single tree.  The cornerstone was laid by Aaron Lopez, a Portugese Jew who fled the Inquisition and found his fortune in America. Aaron Lopez was the wealthiest person in Newport at the time.

We also drove by the Eastern Orthodox church, but it was on a street that made it too hard to photograph.

Before we settled in for our brunch, we leisurely drove Ocean Drive to view the cottages.  Had we been able to take a tour (no time) we would have seen Hammersmith Farm (where Jackie Kennedy grew up).  In the meantime, we were able to view some stunning homes and shoreline views.  With the weather and windchill factors as they were, most of the photographs were taken from the car!

Lots of celebrities currently own homes in Newport including Jay Leno, John Legend, Conan O’Brien, and near Newport, Taylor Swift,

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After a while, one mansion after another begin to lose their appeal.  So you can image how excited we were to see wild turkeys meandering across the road, with cars politely waiting for them to pass.  I never knew how beautiful these birds were!

Before I describe our final exciting experience, I want to share some glimpses of the houses and streets of Newport.  It is as if the entire town is one, big historical artifact.   House after house is an architectural gem, many of which have plaques that declare their construction date.  They all look in excellent condition, and some have beautiful details.

Other ‘newer’ homes had different architectural styles.

This is how my sister described our final destination: “As you and I are 9^th cousins (once[?] removed), to the King of England (and our family tree records date back to the year 988, in Russia), it is only fitting we say goodbye to Newport in the manner of our ancestors, as surely someone in our great clan hobnobbed with the best of Newport society”.  And so, off we went to The Vanderbilt hotel for Sunday brunch.  This historic Newport mansion was once owned by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, (the 3^rd son of Cornelius II; he died in the sinking of the Lusitania).  Scandal surrounds this stately home, as it was built for Alfred’s mistress. Vanderbilt’s first wife, Ellen French, filed for divorce in 1908, alleging adultery with the wife of the Cuban attaché in Washington, Agnes Ruiz.  Sadly, Agnes committed suicide due to the ensuing societal scandal, and Alfred donated the building to the town where it became the home of the local YMCA for many years.

This building is now a luxury hotel, and our meal was in the cozy, intimate dining room and bar.  As we were the first guests to arrive, we were allowed to choose our table.  We opted for the small antique table next to the fireplace.  Needless to say, the food, ambiance and service were of the highest caliber.

For brunch we enjoyed Eggs Benedict with Earl Grey Lavender tea and mini scones for dessert.

After the storm and clouds of yesterday, it was a joy to see a crystal-clear, blue sky as we headed home. We passed the White Horse Tavern, so I was able to get a daytime photo. I noted the local cemetery had a separate, chained section for Jewish burials. I hope this is the choice of the Jewish people.

The ride was obviously much faster and I had fun taking photos in the same locations to show you the ‘before’ and ‘after’ views.

And of course I end with the only street art I saw in Newport!

To refresh your memory, last Christmas my sister gifted me a trip from Guess Where Trips. These trips are like the TV show, Amazing Race, in that you open envelopes and only then find out where you will be going next.  So, for Alex’s birthday I created a trip for her and then for my birthday she did the same…only she took it to a whole new level. As we got into the car with our morning bagels, I opened my first envelope entitled, “History, Religion and Nature.”  Alex wrote, “Our ultimate destination rests on the seaside…sits on an island and [is] home to 25,000 residents.”  We were going to NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND!!

I will start by sharing some interesting factoids about the famous town of Newport (although officially a city due to its diverse economy, it is so small I insist on calling it a town!).

1. While Benjamin Franklin is a household name, his brother, James Franklin, was a prominent Newport citizen who published both the Rhode Island Almanac and Newport’s first newspaper, the Newport Daily News, still in print today.
2. Newport is home to the oldest typewriter in the country. I wonder who thought it was important save it?
3. Newport hosted the first circus performance in the country.
4. Newport was the site of the first airplane passenger line in the United States between Newport and New York City. I guess it always catered to the rich and famous.
5.  Newport can boast it is the site of the nation’s first automobile arrest and jail sentence. The offender was driving 15 miles per hour.  Speed demon!!  Not to be outdone, galloping horses were banned on the streets of Newport in 1678.  Hmmm, do Newportians have a thing for speed??
6. The nation’s first auto race was held in Newport as well as the first polo match. Yep, apparently they do!
7. Ida Lewis, the first female lighthouse keeper, saved lives here.
8. The first duplex house in the US was built here in 1750.

Driving north was a trip down memory lane as we passed Port Chester, NY, (where I lived while working in NYC) and New London, CT (where I went to college and the locale of my first teaching job).

The drive would take 4-hours, so we stopped for a break in Mystic, CT.  This historic seaport is famous for its restored homes and ships. During its 19th century prime, 600 ships were built in Mystic over 135 years. There is a lot of New England history to learn about in Mystic, but our needs were more primal: food. The Mystic Market Kitchen Eatery and its yummy gourmet sandwiches met that need more than adequately.

As you can see, the weather was not cooperating.  Originally, we planned to travel the prior weekend but due to the weather report, we made reservations for this weekend.  Well, thank goodness my sister has 4-wheel drive and is an excellent driver in the snow, meteorologists be damned! 

As we were leaving Mystic, Waze re-directed us due to an accident on the highway.  This resulted in some back-road-beautiful photos.

The snow was heavy due to the humidity, and the lack of wind meant the trees created a Winter Wonderland.

Despite the weather we made good time and, having checked into the elegant Motel 6, rested a bit until our first excursion: The Breakers.

Newport, RI has been noteworthy for several reasons since its establishment in 1639, but its “cottages” are what put this coastal destination into the forefront of many minds these days. The cottages are in fact very grand mansions built during the US Gilded Age (1870-1918) by wealthy families such as the Vanderbilts and the Astors. These opulent summer homes, such as The Breakers, Marble House and Rosecliff, showcase exquisite architecture and provide a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of America’s elite during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The Breakers manse, symbol of the Vanderbilt family’s social and financial pre-eminence in the Gilded Age, is the must-see, grandest of all the Newport mansions. Sadly, while the mansion on its own is extremely impressive, the bad weather meant we couldn’t walk the grounds which are supposed to be lovely. In addition, the low clouds of the snowstorm meant we couldn’t see the cliff at the edge of the property, from which the roaring waves breaking on the stones give this cottage its name.

Designed by American architect Richard Morris Hunt, The Breakers is designed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, resembling a Roman palazzo. It was built to impress, and no expense was spared in its creation.  Amazingly, the 70-room “cottage” was finished in only 2 years using a huge army of artists and craftsmen.  One reason the house was completed in such a short time was because they began decorating before construction concluded: a room would be designed and built in France, then disassembled and sent to Newport for re-construction.

The enormous expense of maintaining this home ultimately led to public tours in 1948, held by the newly established Preservation Society (founded by Gladys Vanderbilt, Cornelius II’s youngest daughter).

The tour opened with us entering the Great Hall, just as any visitor to the Vanderbilts would have. This enormous space (50′ x 50′) with its lofty ceiling painted with clouds in a bright blue sky, was modeled after 16th century, Genoan open-air courtyards. The purpose of this home was to advertise the Vanderbilts’ social status as well as to show the world that America was now a financial powerhouse. However, I loved learning that as grand and formal as this space is, the building was still a summer home to 7 children who would ride tricycles around the hall and slide down the grand staircase on trays! 

In the photo below, you can see the Grand Staircase leading down into the Great Hall. In the photo below that is the water fountain which sits underneath the stairs. The staircase and fountain were inspired by the Paris Opera House. The height of the steps was designed so that women could descend without lifting their skirts, giving the appearance of floatation.

The portrait below is of Cornelius Vanderbilt II who built this house and who, with his brother, ran the railroad empire founded by their grandfather.  He was worth $75,000,000 at the turn of the 20th century!!  However, he sought out humility and started his professional life as a clerk at the Shoe and Leather Bank. It was during these years he met his wife, Alice Claypool, while they were both teaching church school.

As with all the public rooms, the formal Dining Room (below) was designed to wow. The wall sconces and chandeliers were made with Baccarat crystal. Of particular interest, the lamps were electric, but because it was such a new technology it was not always reliable, so all the light fixtures in the house were plumbed for gas as well. 

Next up, the Billiard Room.  The stone floor tile and murals in Cornelius’ man-cave were meant to create a sense of cool retreat, with the mosaics, alabaster archway and design mimicking an ancient Roman room.  If you’ve seen the HBO series, The Gilded Age, this room was used in the filming. Throughout the tour there were numerous ‘behind the scenes’ tidbits shared.

The lighting fixture over the billiard table is made from bronze. It is so heavy, it is secured to the joists of the house.

Moving on, we were able to catch a glimpse of the Breakfast Room. Designed in the style of grand French palaces like Versailles, this is where the family would eat breakfast and informal dinners.  Most interesting, the panels you see below were thought to be decorated with silver, but it was noticed they never tarnished. So, conservators used a portable X-ray machine and learned the glam came from (no-tarnish) platinum, which was incredibly expensive even back when the house was built. 

I was listening to an audio tour while discovering this house, and in the Morning Room (below) I heard a lovely story narrated by Gladys Vanderbilt. She recalled how on Sundays they were not allowed to play games.  However, unlike other families they were allowed to read anything they wanted.  She went on to share a vignette about one of the brothers, Reggie, who invented a board game called, “Going to Church.” All Gladys could remember, as she giggled, was that the board was styled after Parcheesi and somehow the game was allowed to be played on Sundays!

Above is the Morning Room where the family would spend most of their indoor time during the day.

Next to the Morning Room, The Music Room – majestic golden hues tempered warmly by a light green, with chairs placed around the large fireplace. The ceiling is quite lovely and contains four musical terms in French: le chant, melodie, la musique et harmonie. The Vanderbilts were very musical, all played instruments. They would hold concerts and the matriarch hosted musical soirees. The Music Room, which faces the ocean, hosted many lavish events, including daughter Gertrude’s wedding and her sister Silvia’s debutant ball.

The ceiling of the Music Room

While I liked the colors of the Music Room, my favorite space was the Library (of course).  The dark paneled walls offered an intimate family space to read or relax during afternoon tea.

The Library

As we walked up to the second floor it was nice to see the carved details of the Grand Hall ceiling up close. 

Now on the second floor, we entered Gladys’ bedroom (Countess Széchenyi), one of 15 (!) on this floor. Compared to the opulence of the first floor, the bedroom is quite austere, but such were the times of the day: this was how the other half really lived. It also reminds one that this was, first and foremost, a home. The bedrooms were designed by Ogden Cogman who was known for his understated, elegant style.

All the rooms were connected with hidden doors, primarily used by servants whose goal was to be invisible. This bedroom also connected to the master bedroom via a bathroom, quite small and simple compared to the other ones we saw.

Below is Cornelius Vanderbilt’s bedroom. He was considered the most powerful financial baron of his time.

While most houses in the area had one bathroom, The Breakers has 20! All the bathrooms in the house boasted the latest conveniences including running hot and cold fresh and salt water as well as designated sitz baths for soothing the nether regions after a long day of carriage or horseback riding.

I was intrigued by the closets: you can see how large dresses and formal suits were hung and stored.

Below is Mrs. Alice Vanderbilt’s bedroom. Perhaps her days as a church schoolteacher served her well as she was known to be a woman who ensured the cottage was run to polished perfection. Unsurprisingly, over Mrs. Vanderbilt’s nightstand were call buttons for any house staff she needed. 

High society women of the day were expected to change as frequently as 8 times per day. So, of course, Mrs. Vanderbilt’s bedroom boasted 4 closets. It also might explain why Mrs. Vanderbilt’s room also served as her office: how else could she get everything done 😉 ?

As part of the audio tour, I heard from children of those who worked at the mansion. 

The daughter of a chambermaid said there was a lot of dusting and laundry. Bed linens were changed twice a day. There were also fresh towels after every bath, and they often took several baths a day. 

A footman told us how there were the ‘upstairs and downstairs staff.’  Footmen (who had to be over 6’ tall) were the only staff permitted to be seen by the family.

A daughter of a worker recalled how her mother allowed her to spy on a grand ball one night.

Servant bedrooms were modern and well appointed, but hot and small (as told by the daughter of a woman who worked there). As they also spent summers there, she remembered how they ran up and down the stairs all day but were not allowed to touch anything.  However, they were allowed to play outside in the back.

There were several rooms in the mansion under restoration we didn’t get to see, but we glimpsed at the work underway which was interesting.

Before we headed down to the kitchen we passed the top of the Grand Staircase, with its stunning stained-glass skylight by John LaFarge and the 17^th century tapestry depicting the life of Alexander the Great.  The family was well known for collecting European art and this is just one example.

The servant staircase and corridors (below) are made from a lovely wood, with railing as finely crafted as in the homes of wealthy people.

The kitchen, safely away from the rest of the house in its own wing as a fire precaution, was impressive. The stove is 21 feet long, large enough for an army of chefs to cook for all of the family, guests and staff.  Many of those who cooked here went off to grand careers, with one becoming a celebrity chef.

From the kitchen we pass through the Flower Room, and then into the 2-story(!) Butler’s Pantry. The Butler’s Pantry was the hub of house: if this were a ship it would be the captain’s bridge with the butler at the helm (as any of us who have watched Downtown Abbey would know!).

In the gift shop (where I bought a magnet and Christmas tree ornament) were shelves of books set in Newport or about the Gilded Age. I have already borrowed two from the library!

As we left the house, we passed the building below which I later learned was the Children’s Playhouse Cottage, built in 1886 to match the original Breakers house (the one that burned down). It was one of Gladys’ play areas. This brought the concept of a “playhouse” to a whole new level for me… and was a great way to end the first excursion!

Our day ended with two culinary delights. First, we went to Bowen’s Wharf for cocktails, as it was too early for our dinner reservation.  The restaurant, Bowens 22, had the most professional bartender I have ever been served by.  Aside from creating excellent cocktails, he joined our conversation at appropriate times, showing he was listening for when he was needed, but never interfering.

The snow finally stopped falling at dusk.

Then I experienced one of the best meals of my life at a restaurant with super history, impeccable service and exceptional food.  The White Horse Tavern is the oldest continuously running tavern/restaurant in America.  Established in 1673, the décor maintains the ambiance of the 17^th century it is easy to imagine George Washington eating here, as local legend suggests. In fact, it is known that Benjamin Franklin stayed here.  The memorabilia hanging on the walls… clearly not purchased by a decorator, but maybe have been here all along??

The White Horse Tavern

The meal was ‘simple’ fare prepared perfectly.  Since New England clam chowder was invented in Newport, I started with that (it was the best chowder I ever ate), and Alex enjoyed the Scotch Egg. My entree was homemade lobster ravioli in a sauce to die for while Alex had the Beef Wellington.  I ended the meal with a lovely madeira wine and – what a surprise – we didn’t have to remind the waiter it was my birthday and I got a candle on my dessert plate.

A great end to a great day. As a matter of fact we had such a good time we forgot to have a photo taken with us together.

One of the benefits of living through one of the coldest winters in quite a while, is getting to see the Knickerbocker Ice Festival in its full glory.  It was very cold (13F/-10C), so cold in fact Rockland Lake was frozen enough for people to skate on for the first time in 20 years! Undaunted, my sister and I bundled up and headed out to see the sights. 

Back in the days before refrigeration, Rockland Lake was famous for the clarity of its ice. This location is the former home of the Knickerbocker Ice Company, around which the town of Rockland Lake grew.  The earliest icehouse was built in 1833 and by the year 1866 the small lake was producing 80,000 tons of ice each year.  This company was very successful and even exported ice to India, Australia, and other international locations. 

Of course, once the fridge became ubiquitous the ice industry melted away, with the last ice harvest taking place in 1924.

The old icehouses were insulated with sawdust. Sadly, while demolishing one in 1926, workers accidentally set a fire, destroying the vast majority of the small town of Rockland Lake. Only a few of the original houses remain in this forested area of our county. The lake and its surrounding land are now a public park.

For me, the highlight of the festival were the ice sculptures. We saw one artist at work: he was in the early stages of his creation and was using a chain saw.  After the big chunks of ice are removed, the more detailed work is performed with a chisel.  I imagine this work must be stressful as a small slip can ruin the entire piece.

The sculpture this artist created is American Bison. The bison was designated as the ‘first animal of the US’ by President Obama in 2016.  This beast is the largest mammal in North America, and while once on the brink of extinction due to overhunting, is now a leading example of cross-cultural conservation work.

The next sculpture was Bald Eagle, the national bird of the US.  The Founding Fathers felt the eagle best represented the qualities of independence, strength and freedom.  Others at the time (most notably Benjamin Franklin) wanted the turkey to be the national bird as it is indigenous to the original 13 colonies.  The sculpture was created by the Shintaro Okamoto Studio and was particularly photogenic!

The last sculpture was this angel. As it was farther down the lake, there was a sign telling us to visit it!

Also included on the grounds was a display honoring the women of the local Ramapough Lenape Nation.  This tribe has inhabited the area for12,000 years and has recently regained 54 acres of ancestral, sacred land. Poignantly, the display was called ‘Still Here’.

If I was younger, thinner, and healthier, I would have joined those enjoying all that snow has to offer: igloo/fort building, skating, hockey and even ice-sailing!  I had to settle for a lovely walk enjoying the beauty around me.

Most fascinating was watching this parasailer/skier (does anyone know the official name of this sport?). This person was incredibly skilled and was FLYING across the ice, from one end of the lake to another. Unfortunately, by the time I thought to video, he was too far away.

The day ended with Sophia, her boyfriend Drew, my sister Alex and I going out for my birthday dinner at Brassiere D.  While the food was exquisite, the service was horrific and we won’t be going back there again. To name a few issues: we had to ask for everything from water to menus, the waiter brought the dessert menus while we were waiting for our entrees, when the entrees were brought out they were wrong, two tables finished their meals before we were served our entrée, and they forgot to put a candle on my dessert – even though they were told 3 times – finally bringing one as we were leaving.  That aside, it was a lovely evening of good conversation and laughter.

I end with a view of nature, a much better way to end this blog post!

Thanksgiving means a 4-day weekend for most Americans so my sister and I took full advantage of it. I booked us a tour of the Armour-Stiner Octagon House in Irvington, NY.  Originally scheduled for 11:30am, we had to switch to the 2:30 tour so my sister could sit on the phone dealing with the bank regarding her hacked account.  Once that was resolved, we enjoyed a sumptuous snack at the Red Hat, an elegant, comfortable restaurant on the water’s edge, to wait until tour time.  There I was able to take a new angle of my favorite bridge, the NYC skyline, and the crashing Hudson River waves on this extremely blustery day.  The gull below was fun to photo as I walked slowly towards him (5 steps, wait – 5 steps, wait).  I got close but I knew I reached the end of his comfort zone when I took two steps forward and he took two steps back.  I took one more step, but it was too close for my feathered friend, and he flew away. 

The restaurant itself is beautiful as you can see below; I imagine it must be an exceptional place to dine al fresco during the summer months. 

On the site of the former Lord and Burnham Greenhouse Manufacturing Company, the Red Hat sits in what used to be the factory’s boiler room.  When active, this company built unique, intricate and beautiful atria, such as the one at the New York Botanical Gardens (see photos below). 

While pricey, the food and (mid-day!) cocktails at the Red Hat were exceptional. I had a Honeynut Old Fashioned and Alex had a Cranberry Marguerita.

We shared the whipped ricotta crostini with honey drizzled on top. Everything was as good as it sounds.

In no time at all it was time to head back for our tour.  After parking, we explored the property while waiting for the tour to begin.  The carriage house is inhabited by Michael Lombardi, whose family is the current owner. Michael also informs the tour guides when the Lombardis want to use the main house so as not to overlap with tours. 

These buildings match the overall decor and style of the main house. The greenhouse includes a public bathroom, an experience all its own.  To flush you had to push down a vertical lever, and the light switches were push-buttons (something my grandmother’s Victorian house had.  A nice “trip down memory lane” moment!).  There was something special about using antique facilities, it made one feel more of the history.  So often tourist locations have modern facilities.  Just another example of how fun it is to explore off the beaten track.

As I write this blog, we are having our first snowstorm so looking at the photos of the stunning autumn leaves below is warming me up a bit!  It was a truly a stunning, sunny, fall day.

Then, finally, it was time to tour the main house.

The Armour-Stiner Octagon House was built between 1859-1860.  Octagonal houses were a fad architectural form of the mid-19th-century US, touted by an architect as easing the workload of housewives. There were 1,000 such houses built and about half remain standing today. However, this particular 8-sided home is unique for several reasons, most notably because this is the only house of this kind that is fully domed.

The Octagon House has always been a private home, held by several families over the years. It is called the Armour-Stiner House in honor of the first two owners.  The first owner, who built the original home, was Paul Armour. However, Joseph Stiner, the 2nd owner, is included in the building’s current name as many of the features the house is famous for today were added by him. After Joseph Stiner, the house went through several owners and a steady decline until 1976, when the National Trust for Historic Preservation acquired the estate. It became the first property acquired by the National Trust and resold to a private citizen, preservation architect Joseph Pell Lombardi, in 1978. Mr. Lombardi, and his son, Michael, have done all the restoration work we see today.

The dome was added by Joseph Stiner.  On the tour we learned this addition was not done properly: essentially, the dome was just plopped on top, causing significant structural issues over the years.

The outside of the house has a wrap-around porch, added at the same time as the dome. To stick with the theme of 8, there are 8 steps up to the porch!

Entering the house was stepping back in time.  Every detail has been meticulously restored. Everywhere I looked there was something beautiful for my eyes to rest upon.  Most of the woodwork in the house is Long Leaf Yellow Pine, a strong and fire-resistant wood.  (The tree has been over-harvested over the years, but the army Corp of Engineers is working to bring the species back.)  All the furniture is authentic to the period, made in the US, and typical of an upper middle-class family of the era.

We entered the house, putting our coats on hooks in the room to our left.  Here two stunning ornaments were displayed – which I happily learned were on sale in the gift shop.  I was excited until I saw the price, so settled for this photo as a memory. My tree will just have to live without it!

In the style of the time, your most elegant and ‘expensive’ rooms were on the ground floor.  The entryway below, with its woodwork and silver wallpaper (and ceiling!) sent the clear message: the residents have money.

The carpets are reproductions of the original carpets in the home, as best as the restorers could tell from old photographs.  Made by The Wilton Company, they are stunning with incredible colors and fine details.  During the Victorian era, carpets were made by sewing thin strips together.  To be cleaned, carpets had to be taken apart, cleaned, dried and then re-sewn. Needless to say, the invention of a carpet broom/vacuum cleaner was quickly and widely received.

One of the original owners was deep into phrenology, a 19th-century pseudoscience that claimed personality traits and mental abilities could be determined by the shape and bumps on a person’s skull.  His walking cane had a skull with the ‘zones’ on it, and there were other such items around the house.

To the right of the entrance hall was a study.  Here you can see one of the many corners of the house. Architects claimed octagonal homes made a housewife’s work easier because it reduced the number of steps a woman has to take to clean a traditionally shaped home. But given the arm-work involved in maintaining all these tight corners, I cannot see how such spaces make housework easier. Hmmm… I don’t suppose the architects espousing octagonal homes were men who never did housework??

The next room we visited was the formal parlor.  This yellow room has the original ceiling fixture and, on that day, also held a beautifully decorated Christmas tree, the first of several in the house.   As this was a room for guests, it contains the best artwork of the house.  The artwork is mostly in the Hudson River School and the painting by Thomas Chambers seen below, is the most valuable.  Chambers has been called the ‘first American Modernist’ and is considered a Primitivist.

Next up was the formal dining room. The table was set for a Christmas meal, complete with a menu that would have been served at the time.

Walking through the small pantry, which connects to the kitchen, was fun.  The copper sink was impressive, as were the photos of the Lombardi family from when they lived here.  No longer formal rooms, the simplicity was quite evident. 

The formal name of the kitchen is the finishing kitchen, or Ladies’ kitchen (I imagine the ‘real’ kitchen was at the bottom of the staircase off the room).  Mrs. Stiner was honored by her husband in that he gave her crown molding and a desk.

The stove is original but no longer uses coal or wood: it was outfitted with electricity and the 8 (of course) burners.

Also displayed in this room were items from the Stiner company, which sold foods and delicacies.

Next, we climbed the grand staircase to the second floor.  While we were not allowed to touch any of the walls or items, I think they took pity on my bad knee and let me lean on the banister!  It was a visual treat to see how the garland on the stairs continues in a spiral up all the floors.

The first bedroom, complete with its own sitting room, still has the original painted ceiling.  The question remains how that came to be, especially given the state of “modernization” attempts and disrepair the house experienced for the decades leading up to the Lombardis’ restoration.

This next room is probably the master bedroom, based on the photo of Lombardi and his wife, as well as the story behind the bed.  For 20 years Lombardi tried to get this bed with its octagonal posts.  When it went up for auction, he lost the bed but kept writing to the owner over the years.  When the man died, his heirs finally sold it back to him.   The wood is pine but painted black to look like ebony.

On this floor was also the Room of Curiosities, another fad of its day.  Objects from the natural world were a necessity, as was a large hutch for displaying treasures.  Like personal tastes dictated what to buy and display, my personal tastes dictated what I photographed!

The Room of Curiosities also includes a display of antique Christmas cards.  Of interest, was how the images of Santa are not the same.  The “red coat Santa” was not adopted as typical in the US until much later. Also interesting was this factoid shared by our guide: the word ‘Santa’ as a reference to the iconic gift giver, first appeared in a Boston newspaper in 1773, during the same week as the Boston Tea Party, but then disappeared with historians not seeing the word re-appear until the 1860s.

I will take this moment to share other photos and information about Christmas learned on the tour.  First, the style of ornaments in the house is called ‘Dresden’.  The stars tend to be lead as was the tinsel.  Originally, glass ornaments were blown because people could not afford real fruit to hang on the tree.  Lastly, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert brought the tradition of Christmas trees to England, while German immigrants were the ones to make such decorations popular in the US. 

Included in the following photos are some of the ornaments I liked the most.

The last room we visited was the Egypt Room, a popular decorative style of the time as well.  This room was for diversions, including the organ and a sink for washing paint brushes and other supplies.  Of particular interest are the Jewish items on display as the Stiner family was Jewish.  It is surmised that the family only brought their closest friends to this room and also held their in-home services here.

As we left the tour, I took a sneak peek and saw what the house looked like under the porch!

While there were no photos of street art today, I end with this photo: the beginning of the day’s sunset, shading the dramatic clouds.

As I sit here on a cold, sunny and windy November morning, I am clearing my desk top and realized I have a lot of photos of nature I have not shared. I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I enjoyed taking them.

This first set is from my weekend at my aunt and uncle’s house (way back in June) located in Bridgehampton, NY.

This next set is from the New York Botanical Garden that my sister and I visited in July, mainly to see the Van Gogh sunflower exhibit. Who knew there were so many varieties of sunflowers! Similarly, along with enjoying the overall beauty, I was struck by the large variety of lilies on display.

Lastly, photos from a road trip to Connecticut we took in August before I started working.

For our next adventure, my sister and I went on a tour of the Rockefeller estate in Tarrytown, NY, called Kykuit (pronounced, “kai-koot“). What an incredible place! The house and grounds are stunning – filled with amazing art, all arranged with remarkable taste and care. This impressive property served as a spring and autumn home for three generations of Rockefellers (including Nelson Rockefeller, Governor of New York for many years, and the grandson of the original tycoon).

The tour began at the entrance to Phillipsburg Manor, an estate from colonial times, about 1 1/2 miles from the estate we actually came to see. I took a few pictures for sentimental reasons as I recall visiting this living history museum on a school field trip in elementary school.

As we rode the bus up to the estate, we learned that Kykuit – about 30 miles north of the Standard Oil headquarters on Wall St. – stretches over 4,000 acres and boasts 40 fountains, 17 bathrooms, and 44 bedrooms. Not to mention the impressive modern art collection gathered by Nelson Rockefeller.

Nelson’s love of art was nurtured by his mother, Abby, who also helped found the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. If you ever visit MoMA, you’ll undoubtedly notice how many pieces were donated by the Rockefeller family.

Philanthropy has always been at the heart of the family. John D. Rockefeller, Sr. (JD) – the original tycoon – is often called “the father of modern philanthropy.” JD believed in giving thoughtfully, focusing on education and medical research, and created a type of charitable giving previously unheard of: he made sure his financial gifts would continue to be felt for generations. This work continues to this day via The Rockefeller Foundation, with the family meeting annually to allocate charitable funds.

Construction on the house of Kykuit began in 1908. Originally, the house was designed in the style of a (large) cozy cottage. But when JD’s brought his wife, Laura, to see it, it was not at all to her liking. Laura preferred a more elegant, Classical Revival look. As such, the house was completely rebuilt into the version we see today and was completed in 1911. The goal was for the house to blend naturally with the landscape, and I think they pulled it off: walking throughout the home and grounds, it feels peaceful and harmonious, grand even in its simplicity.

When the house was built, JD was the wealthiest man in the world. So, of course, his home included all the latest technology and modern conveniences, including an Otis elevator inside the home as well as central vacuuming (in 1908!). But unlike other Gilded Age mansions reputably huge and over-the-top, Rockefeller wanted this home to feel warm, comfortable, and livable. A lifelong lover of natural vistas, JD sought to preserve his beautiful views. So, he bought all the land around the estate, of course, but he also purchased the village of Tarrytown as much as he could to control its development, going so far as to having his backyard raised (cubic tons!) to ensure his view of the Hudson River would not be spoiled by the village buildings. In fact, JDR even purchased the land across the river to protect his view; his land extended all the way down to New York City! This land – called The Palisades (mountains) – was eventually deeded to New York State, but on the condition the upper acreage remain undeveloped. To this day, this prime real estate just north of Manhattan remains untouched.

The first part of the tour took us inside the house, where a warm feeling greeted us the moment we stepped in. Everywhere we looked, the décor added to the elegance and taste – each piece seemed to tell its own story. What truly made the house special, though, was its remarkable collection of art and artifacts. The family had gathered treasures from many cultures over the generations, honoring traditions from around the world. JD’s son, John D. Jr (Junior), even purchased J.P. Morgan’s entire collection of Chinese porcelain (now considered priceless), with exquisite pieces from the Han, Tang, Qin, and Ming dynasties gracing nearly every room.

As photo taking was not allowed inside the house, most of these are from the internet, but I did sneak 1 or 2 photos as I am wont to do!

Next, we entered the Butler’s pantry, just above the basement kitchen, where we saw the dumb waiter that brought up the food from the kitchen, the warmer to hold said food in case the family wasn’t ready for it just yet. We also perused a few sample menus from back in the day. We also saw the old-fashioned buzzer board telling the staff who needed help and in which room (very Downton Abbey style!). What really caught my eye, though, was the linoleum floor — a popular 1930s design identical to the one my grandmother had in her kitchen just across the river.

The dining room was next where, among the many other fascinating details of the house, were floor-to-ceiling sliding windows that could be opened all the way up, for dining en plein air.

And yet, every corner we turned held a personal touch underscoring the fact that this was a true family home. Not far from the John Singer Sargent portrait stood pieces of artwork by Nelson’s late son, Michael, who died tragically as a young man.

The dining room chandelier was originally electric, but Nelson later converted it to candles (my parents did the same thing in their dining room!) and added recessed ceiling lights for a softer glow. Eventually, the chandelier was restored back to electric.

The next part of our tour was Nelson’s Man Cave — a cozy set of basement rooms filled with Picassos and numerous other examples of incredible modern art. I knew we were in for something special when I noticed Picasso sketches hanging on the wall as we walked down the stairs to the den! Nelson loved spending time there, surrounded by his artwork.  Before this space became a gallery, it served a far less glamorous purpose — it was the pipe room for the organ and was also used for storage.

Among the collection are two Andy Warhol silkscreens — one a gift from the artist himself, which inspired Nelson to commission another, this time of his wife, Happy.

At one point, Nelson learned about a large tapestry made to replicate Picasso’s Guernica and after learning more about it, had to commission more for his personal collection. Once a year, Rockefeller would suggest three paintings he thought were good candidates for the tapestry form. Picasso would select one, choose the colors (sometimes changing colors from the original painting), and then send the design to Madame J. de la Baume Durrbach, who wove them in her studio in the South of France. Each piece took about a year to complete and was larger than the original artwork. The final tapestry made before Picasso’s death was woven in silk — all the others are in wool. Nelson Rockefeller commissioned 18 pieces between 1958 and 1975. Kykuit normally houses 15 of these very rare tapestries.

Another charming touch was a display of glass bottles. Nelson’s sons had collected while walking through the woods. Nelson challenged the boys to create this display. He was so proud of their work that he always brought guests down to see it and bragged about what his sons had done. The display still stands proudly in the center of the room.

Next, our tour guide took us outside to the gardens, and I could take photos again.  The landscape architect for the estate wanted the outside to feel like the gardens were an extension of the house, and in this he was most successful.  As we left the basement, we walked through a grove of trees leading back up to the left side of the house and then explored a pool house, a former swimming pool, some gardens and a gazebo.

Behind the sunken lawn of the previous pools is the Pool House seen below, complete with a soda fountain and a painted ceiling.

There were both formal gardens to stroll through as well as more relaxed ones.  One garden near the pool house had an Asian influence, complete with Japanese sculpture.

The more formal gazebo shown below features a statue Junior desperately wanted. He first tried to acquire it before World War II but only succeeded after the war. Especially interesting is that the statue stands on a rotating pedestal, allowing her to face any direction. So – what part of the body would you want facing you?

All the outdoor works of art can be lit at night in a myriad of ways. An extensive lighting panel in a foyer right off the main sitting room controls the lights, their brightness, etc.

When Nelson died, the Japanese style house and pool you see below (it sits lower down a hill below a short wall) was built for his widow, Happy, and their two sons.  His youngest son, Mark, currently lives there.  

The “backyard” of the house is where we were able to appreciate the view this estate has and that which JD worked so hard to preserve.  The rear gardens also included an 18-hole golf course as JD was an avid golfer and played EVERY day he was in residence, weather permitting.  Then there is a wilderness grotto, where the Rockefeller teenagers would have parties.  You could easily imagine how on Friday nights the boys would hang out there with their buds. Jealous!

Above is the original swimming pool to the house.

The right side of the house does not have much garden space but just beyond is an expansive rolling lawn which leads to the “Playhouse.”  The building includes (among other amenities) a bowling alley, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, indoor and outdoor tennis courts, basketball courts, a movie theater, a dining room and restaurant-style kitchen.  When Nelson Rockefeller deeded Kykuit to New York State, he stipulated the family can always use the estate when they need to and the family clearly still needs the Playhouse because they use it regularly!  As a matter of fact, the weekend before we toured, a family member had a wedding reception there. We could not tour inside the Playhouse, although there may be tours beginning next spring.

The last stop on the tour was the Carriage House. The structure belonged to a neighboring, older estate that was bought by the Rockefellers.  The large building now houses a conference center as well as two enormous ‘garages’: the first with antique horse-pulled carriages and an impressive car collection in the other.

All the automobiles were the top-of-the-line of their day and made for the family.  The family insisted on only American made cars expect for one.  While at the 1964 World’s fair Nelson saw the first Mustang ever built and bought that. Then he saw a red Daimler and just had to have that as well, and thus the family tradition was broken.

As I mentioned before, the artwork displayed in the house and around the estate is a reason to visit alone. Here are SOME of the sculptures on the estate.

This is by Isamu Noguchi

Here are a few miscellaneous photos from the day:

Ending with street art in Tarrytown!

Last Christmas my sister gifted me a “mystery road trip,” so I knew my adventures would only continue now that I am again living in the US. On the website for the company Alex obtained the itinerary from (https://guesswheretrips.com), you identify your location (US or Canada) and they send you a mystery trip via snail mail, contained in 4 envelopes.  As it was Juneteenth, my sister had the day off and since the weather was perfect, we decided to open the first envelope and see where we were going.  The trip was called. “Hudson River Hideaways.”  As we both have/had lived here for many years, we were worried we would be sent to places we knew well. We were pleasantly surprised that nearly all the spots we were sent to were new to us.

Our first stop was The Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. This well-known repose is connected to the Old Dutch Church, founded in 1685 by the Philipse family (who, by the way, fled to England after the Revolutionary War).  It is still a functioning church. Washington Irving, a prominent American writer, lived in the area and immortalized the hamlet in his famous fable of 1820, “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” with its Headless Horseman.

This cemetery has graves dating from 1685 to the present day.  I was struck by the various ways names are represented. There are family sections. There are names on top of the tombstones. They are tombstones very low to the ground, and some standing tall. There are simple slabs as well (mostly in the older section).  I wondered whether the variety is due to finances, the styles of the times or creativity of the undertaker. I was also surprised by the in-ground crypts nestled in the hillside.  In general, the grounds were park-like, geographically varied and, overall, extremely pleasant to walk through with modern and old tombstones standing side by side.  Of equal interest is how some old gravestones were carved so well and so deep they still look new.

The information we had indicated the oldest graves had tombstones written in Dutch. We almost gave up trying to find a Dutch tombstone, but thanks to Eagle Eye Alex we found one!

The writer Washington Irving’s family plot was fenced off but included his tombstone in a prominent location.

As we travelled to the rear of the cemetery, the tombs of the rich and famous began to take prominence.

The photo below is the crypt of Harry and Leona Helmsley, real estate moguls who towards the end of their lives had legal issues that were sensationalized (Google it!), especially when Leona left $12million to her beloved dog(!)  However, of more interest is a beautiful stained-glass representation of the NYC skyline in the tomb which I could not photo.

Elizabeth Arden, of the cosmetics line, is buried in the tomb below under her real name, Elizabeth Graham.  Factoid: at one point she was one of the richest women in the world!

Next is the Bronze Lady statue you see below.  This statue was commissioned by the wife of General Samuel Thomas for their family mausoleum.  Upon its unveiling, Mrs. Thomas was furious due to the sculptural depiction of her hands being oversized and her gaze (overly?) mournful.  Nonetheless, the artist refused to change it. As a result, there are many scary stories associated with the statue and the crying sounds that can be heard on dark nights.

William Rockefeller, the founder of the family dynasty and Standard Oil, had this tomb built, with ‘lesser’ family members being buried at its side.

After viewing all the large tombs, crypts and mausoleums, we sought out the grave marker for Andrew Carnegie, which was a clear testament to his philanthropic nature.  The pennies left on his marker are due to his quote, “Take care of the pennies and the pounds will care of themselves,”

The grounds of the cemetery were such a pleasure to stroll.  Below is a recreation of the famous bridge where Irving’s character, Ichabod Crane, encounters the Headless Horseman.

There is probably more to explore here, but it was time to move on.

stop number 2

The next envelope gave a choice: an arboretum or a dam.  We opted for the Jane E. Lytle Memorial Arboretum and decided we will return to the dam another day.  The arboretum is named for a local civic activist and is arranged so you have a boardwalk trail that lasts 15 minutes and is lovely and at the same time informative.

The beginning of the walk saw us engulfed in greenery and feeling the positive vibe of nature.

The walk took us through a swamp with signs, teaching us about the trees and bushes we saw.  I was enamored by the various shapes of leaves and how certain leaf shapes are associated with a breed of tree.

Below is a tree which is the most abundant in any northern hardwood forest.  It is the sugar maple – yes, the kind from which maple syrup is made.  It is also a good wood for cabinets and finishing interiors.  It is also a joy to behold during autumn with its red and orange leaves that splash the skyline (stay tuned for a future post when I experience my first Autumn in NY in 30 years!).

Instead of peacock calls that resound in India, here it is a bullfrog croaking loudly, encouraging me to sit in a gazebo on the path and listen to those distinctive drumbeats.

Stop Number 3

While also a nice walk, this constitutional contained an historical component: it is the West Point Foundry Preserve.  This location was a Civil War foundry and metal works, where much of the Union Army’s bullets, tools and other metal items were made.  It was considered the Silicon Valley of its day due to the innovative items being developed and built here.  One such item was the Parrott Cannon which gave the Union Army a distinct advantage. (For non-US readers, The Union Army was the North, and the Confederate Army was the South).  The foundry was started so there wouldn’t be an artillery shortage like there was during the 1812 War, thus playing a prominent role during the Civil War. The location was also chosen due the nearby Hudson River which provided a great transit connection.

The Parrott Cannon had its own display, showing how it was aimed and how it worked. Practice shots were done here, brought to life as we heard shots from West Point cadets participating in exercises across the river.

Most of the buildings from when the foundry was active were gone, or in ruins.  The 1865 Office Building however, seen below, is the sole remaining building. We also learned that 1911 saw steel take over as the metal of choice, making ironworks redundant and that an industrial archaeologist played a key role in creating and restoring this site.

When the foundry was active, water was the key power source for all machines. The foundry had a very large waterwheel that was able to power all of them. As part of a gesture to honor this era, the wheel was recreated as a sculpture.

While today we were able to walk through a lovely, wooded park – when the foundry was active there were no trees and the area was filled with many buildings. The photos below show some of this.

The walk back to the car was lovely.

When we passed these mounds of dirt, our imaginations had fun thinking what it could be: a garbage pile? a buried building? something else?

interlude

Lunch was in a local town called Cold Spring.  It is a charming, touristy town with a lot of small, quaintly restored Victorian homes (a lot of New York City residents come up ‘north’ to spend weekends and enjoy the beauty and recreation offered by the Hudson Valley).  We ate at a restaurant that was a converted train station, next to a working railroad line. It was fun to eat as a commuter train came by; our joy was shared with a 5-year old boy, his loving father watching nearby.

Lunch and a train!

stop number 4

Our next stop, Madam Brett Park in Beacon, NY, had us walking along a path towards a waterfall, the sound of running water beckoning us with a sense of deep calm. We decided to stop our tour here since it was such a perfect ending to the day, deciding all that all the places we did not get a chance to see will be visited soon.

On the way home we stopped in downtown Beacon, established in 1708, to buy some water for the ride home.  Many local towns pay homage to local fallen soldiers.  I share some of Beacon’s heroes with you.

I can’t end this first US blog post on a somber note!  In Beacon, an eclectic, creative community, I found a store for witches…yes: “real” ones, as well as a store owner who is all about people rather than profits…. hence her sign drew me in, and I purchased from her! The ride home had us cross over the Hudson River on the Bear Mountain Bridge where you can catch a glimpse of how beautiful the river is here.

To begin, here are photos and moments before and after the Gir safaris.

The first photos are of two happy travelers.

One of the things I love most when traveling in India (anywhere, actually) is taking photos of everyday life on the roadside. These next photos were taken on the drive from Gir to Rajkot.  Being my last ride in the Indian countryside made the photo taking session that much more poignant.  Some views look like they could be anywhere, while some are uniquely Indian. I hope you enjoy my impressions.

It looks like this road sign meant business…immediately after I saw it, animals started crossing!

During my years here, I have been fascinated by all the variety of transport in India. On this trip I paid attention and made sure to take photos of the different ways goods were transported, as well as people. I think this drive to the airport captured the essence of India’s commercial transportation system.

Then, in the middle of the countryside and these small, Indian cities, what should pop up, but a British-style train station:

India is a country of contrasts. This concept of “contrast” is something that has stuck with me everywhere I have been throughout my time in India.  As a matter of fact, when I create my India photo book (I have made one from each country I’ve lived in), it will be called India: Colors and Contrasts.  This next set of photos portray some of the contrasts I feel represent life in India.

We arrive at the Rajkot airport at exactly the 4-hour mark, as predicted by the driver, where I see two more nice examples of street art.

Now back in Mumbai, I will now focus on sharing the last moments, savoring what I love about Mumbai, Ecole and India.

Below on the left is a photo from 3 years ago when I ate my first Chaat, and on the right is a photo of my last chaat.  SO delicious!!

My last time indulging on Alphonso mangoes…ate them all in one go!

I combined goodbye meals with visiting my favorite local spots, near my apartment.  Going through this next set of photos was bittersweet…made me really miss everyone from Mumbai!

Luuma, another favored spot with favored people!

In addition to all those dinners out, all the goodbye chocolate cakes I got from various school folk touched me beyond belief.  Students, teachers and support staff all asked for time with me. 

My office at Ecole was such a happy place for me with all the notes from students, teachers and families.  I share a few of them here:

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Without a doubt, it is the teachers who I think of right now as I post the next set of photos. Such a glorious three years working with them!

Group photos….a regular and appreciated moment:

Hanging out in the teachers’ lounge was always pleasant.

Here is some last photos of life in Mumbai. First, two Jain women on a puja. 

My monsoon video and a photo of the effects of a monsoon when you ride an open-air auto rickshaw home from work.  Look carefully at the photo!

Some final street art in Mumbai:

Outside my apartment complex, a wonderful mural was painted capturing life in Mumbai.  I finally made the effort to photograph it, and it was great to reflect on how I have experienced and photographed all the moments depicted on the mural.

And then it was, finally, time to leave.  I was touched that Zeeshan came to Mumbai to see me off and took a photo and video of my plane taking off.  A fitting ending to an amazing three years.

Throughout my time in India, I kept track of the states I visited.  My original intent was to visit every State in India but since my time here was cut short, that goal didn’t happen.  However, I am proud of how much I saw and experienced!

And so, I am back in New York, at least for now. But as far as I am concerned, this is simply a new place to explore. After all, I haven’t lived here for over 30-years! While my India posts may be over, the blog is not: stay tuned for posts exploring my next home!

Some lion factoids:

1. Lion roars can be heard for several kilometers.
2. Lions are the only social animals of the feline family, and live in groups.
3. These big cats can cover 20kms in a single jaunt.
4. Like most animals, lions mark territory with their pee.
5. Lions can run 75-80 kmh.
6. The preferred hunting time for Leo is dawn.
7. Unlike domestic cats, lions love to swim.
8. Lions begin to roar at 4 years of age.
9. One way to distinguish Asiatic lions from African is that the Asian males carry a sparse mane … and a belly fold!
10. While originally found all over northern India and other parts of Asia, lions are now pretty much limited to this state of Gujarat, with conservation efforts in play to help the endangered animal survive.
11. Remember that sign at the hotel that said to mind your children? Well, a few weeks ago, a lion came to the hotel and hung out for a few hours. The warnings are real!

Also, just so you get a feel, this is what most of the day on a safari looks like:

While the naturalist we had on the morning safari was not very good, the driver we had going back to the hotel – Tashima – was: he picked up on our frustrations and during the drive gave us “the scoop.” Thanks to his intel, we made sure our afternoon drive took Route Six, which was supposed to be the good one.

Tashima also shared a recent story about a male lion in the park who hadn’t moved in a few days (they are tagged), so they had to search for him.  They found him: he was ill and taken to the hospital. However, he died, and everyone who works in the park was mourning.  It was nice to learn how the safari workers have this connection with the animals.

After eating and resting, we returned to the park, with Tashima as our driver again. The park is 28 miles from the Arabian Sea, which is why one feels the moisture in the air, and I smell the sea as we drive down the mountain. Already, the afternoon trip was off to a MUCH better start!

For this second leg of the safari, we had a much better naturalist: Harish. We started the tour at 4 o’clock. While this is lion naptime, it meant we would be in the thick of it between 5:30 and 7pm, a very active time. 

In the meantime, some photos and facts about the other animals in the park. How lucky was I to capture this blue, White-Breasted Kingfisher?!

Then there was this orange, White-Breasted Kingfisher!

My favorite, a Ghost tree

Samba Deer are usually quite elusive, but this one wasn’t spooked by us at all and continued munching on the leaves.

I saw these rock piles everywhere and learned they are there to mark the territory of various lions.

This is an Oriental Magpie-Robin, a common bird in the park.

I was thrilled to see this Indian Scope Owl. Check out his ears!

This is a Flying Ibis

There are 92, 000 spotted deer in Gir National Park, but it is always a joy to see them and take photos.  Such graceful animals.

Seeing a Red Wattled Lapwing was not a unique experience, but seeing one sitting on her nest of eggs was!

Peacocks, second only to monkeys as the squirrels of India, do not disappoint.  Yet again we got to see a dance, resulting in one of my best peacock photos.

Likewise, Wild Boars cooled off in the water after the heat of the day.  At first, I was excited to see one, then I saw two together, then we saw an entire group lounging!

This was a fun moment: both Zeeshan and I noticed an owl at the same time. I was looking at the one in the hole, and Zeeshan was looking at the one on the branch and then we realized we were looking at different owls and saw each other’s! What are the odds??

Lions will eat and kill larger animals like deer once a week, but small animals once a day.  This is a stark reminder that real animal life happens here.

OK…now for the amazing stuff: seeing lionesses and cubs! There were two special moments.

The first was seeing a group of lionesses with their 10 cubs resting in the shade, near one of the (manmade) water holes (spaced every kilometer and a half so they can drink during the dry summer).  The moms didn’t do much, although a few times one looked at us.  The kids were pretty quiet as well but were a tad bit more active.  Here I learned that cubs stay with their mothers for three years. Also interesting was seeing a peacock calmly walking around.  Since peacocks are not on the lion menu, they are free to wander!

WHAT LOVE LOOKS LIKE

Last – but not least, by far – I had one of those travel moments that hit your heart and stay with you forever.  As we drove, we came upon a female hanging around by herself, so we stopped.  Nonplussed by our presence, she started roaring, but nothing scary. It started off a little quiet, then became more insistent – but still, not scary. That’s when we saw grown cubs come running: mom was calling for the kids to come home!

Luckily, Zeeshan had the video going while I took still photos.  Even the guides were in awe of this moment and asked for our footage. Below, you see how the mom is lying on the ground and our convoy surrounds her. It is now when she roars, and the cubs arrive (the videos are after the photos).

What happened next was an incredible thing to witness. For the next 30-minutes, the family cuddled, they caressed, they cleaned…. It was extraordinary… and not caught on camera as we were transfixed.  There was no doubt in my mind: I was looking at love.

It got to the point where looking wasn’t enough. Their beauty, majesty and affection for each other was overwhelming. I wanted to go up to them, stroke them and join the cuddle-fest. It didn’t seem possible this loving pride could easily have me for lunch.

I did release my gaze towards the end when I got a few shots. 

We noticed one of the oldest cubs stayed off by himself; likely a male preparing to set off on his own soon.  These cubs are probably three years old, while the ones we saw earlier were around one year.

A patient mother….

Here, some of my favorite photos of the cubs:

This is the male who sat off by himself:

I will end this blog post with our happy faces.  The rest of the day and the trip to the airport will be in the next post.

After landing at the airport in Rajkot in the state of Gujarat and dozing during the long drive to our hotel, we could only have 4 hours of sleep before rising for the day’s adventure. The beautiful, cloudless late-night sky was dotted with stars.  As we drove, we crossed paths with giant bats heading home while listening to the morning sounds of the forest. A nice beginning.

Our destination: Gir National Park. Gir National Park is 525 sq. miles, established in 1965 on the grounds of a former Nawab’s hunting area and is now committed to lion conservation. There are 850 lions and lionesses living within it.  Rather than utilizing the ‘zone’ system like some other parks, Gir National Park employs the ‘route’ system.  Routes mean it is easier to locate the wildlife in their natural territory as opposed to limiting where they can roam, and the drivers know which routes have better chances of particular wildlife sightings than other routes…hence (at least for us!) a so-so morning safari and an amazing afternoon safari.

Not only was my visit to this reserve my final Indian Safari, but this was also, dear friends, my final excursion in India, so it is a special memory beyond the usual reasons. 

Aside from the wildlife, entering the park was an experience all its own: you pay to enter the park, and you pay to take photos. And, you have to rent and bring into the park THEIR non-plastic bottles for water!  They sure know what they are doing.

While we may not have seen many lions in the morning, I photographed lots of other animals, and as always, I loved being within and among nature.

After I took the photo of the Red-Wattled Lapwing I noticed her two babies and got this shot:

I was able to take a good photo of the ever-elusive peahen!!! What a triumphant feeling!

It was quite the experience to stop and watch the peacock in the photos below go through all the motions of his dance. First, the bird adjusted his stance, then he opened his feather tail, danced around and finally ended his performance by settling on a branch, where he promptly began pruning himself.

It was definitely The Day of the Dancing Peacocks.

No lions (yet), but I can show off what different exposures do to the same scene:

And the same view with my iPhone camera:

Then it was time to head back to the hotel and rest before our afternoon safari. Here are some photos of life around the entrance to the park.

Now you can see the outside of the hotel room, as well as an important sign!