Alex Visits India: Agra, Art and Amazing Meals

Next event during the whirlwind that was the end of my time in India, was my sister Alex (Alexandra) visiting me.  There isn’t much to say about her time with me other than we had the BEST time and I got to see Agra for the 3^rd time.  I thought this post would mostly be photos from our time together, but I learned even more about India during this week. And then, there were the amazing meals we had together.

Our weekend trip to Agra gave Alex a change to meet Zeeshan, which was nice as they became the best of friends.  Our first stop was the Agra Fort, one of my favorite spots in Agra. This fort (what we would call a palace) was where all the early Mughal emperors lived.  Of the original 500 structures that were in the compound, only 30 remain.  Some were destroyed by previous rulers but most damage was done by the British to create barracks. Some of the fort is open to the public but much is not because it is still an active military complex used by the Indian army.

All forts in India were protected, but the Agra Fort was the most fortified of its time. Agra Fort boasted a moat (the crocodiles used to walk the perimeter) and other methods of defense.  For example, if you made it past the moat and the archers guarding the gate, you would head up a road.  There you would be met with boulders of various sizes rolling down to greet you. If you managed to survive the rocks, boiling oil would start pouring out of the walls on both sides of you and guards would shoot flaming arrows – just in case you found a way to tolerate your blistering, slippery skate. As we walk, we see the chutes jutting out and the charred remnants of blazing oil on the brick walls. 

Here you also find an example of royal opulence: Jahanghir’s bathtub, which is made of solid stone and is 5 feet high and 8 feet in diameter.  A little too big for me, but don’t worry, it was not originally in the middle of the courtyard! I forget the weight but it is significant… and Jahanghir insisted it be brought along on all of his travels and battles.

After passing through some of the main gates, one gets to the reception hall where the emperor met with petitioners and where the décor changes from the red stone to white marble. The open-air hall has stunning symmetrical columns with the center of the hall being where the big guy sat, surrounded by stunning inlay and resting above all the mere mortals meeting with him.

Next you enter the living quarters. Below is a mosque that was used by the women of the harem.

This courtyard below, used for entertainment, was also where the romance story of the century happened.  All of us know the story of the Taj Mahal and how the surviving emperor built the mausoleum for the love of his life.  They met here.  One of the entertainments here was a bazaar for the women, where only women vendors came to sell items and the royal ladies would shop.  Shah Jahan (who was 15 at the time) was smitten with Arjumand Banu Begum (aged 14).  They were betrothed and married 5 years later.  She was his third wife, but his constant companion (even to battle) and confidant.  They had 14 children together.

However, his life ended sadly.  His son, upset at how much money was being spent to build the Taj Mahal (also, I imagine, to help solidify his place on the throne), banished him to Agra Fort where he could not visit the tomb of his wife but could stare at the monument all day (surrounded by the diamond and precious stone fixed in the wall).  I think his son was strongly influenced by his mother whose beginnings were humbler than a usual empress (although he beat his three brothers in the wars of succession).  The son, Aurangzeb, did live simply and frugally.  As emperor, he insisted on earning his own livelihood through manual labor (he copied the Koran and knitted prayer caps), reflecting his devout adherence to Islamic principles.  I visited his simple gravesite when at the Ajanta caves, if you remember that blog post.

Can you imagine living your life surrounded by inlaid walls with precious and semi-precious stones?  Makes our homes with wallpaper or paint seem so plain. Enjoy the ambiance as I share my photos.

In one of the rooms, if you stand in one corner and someone else stands in the corner across and whispers, you can hear the words clearly!

This is an amazing optical illusion.  When you stand across the courtyard and look at the Taj in the distance, it looks big! 

Next was one of those special moments one has when traveling.  I got to meet Zeeshan’s mother!  While she didn’t speak English, she communicated much through her warm eyes and smile.  Her plan for the afternoon: shopping!  Alex wanted a kurta (and I always want another kurta) so off we went.  Driving through the back streets of Agra gave us a glimpse of life behind the historic sights and gave us the experience of how Indians shop for clothes.  We entered the shop, surrounded by piles of colors.  We sat on the floor and the salesmen started bringing us beautiful clothes to look at.  No trying on, they just know your size!  Near us a family was shopping for their daughter’s wedding so stunning, bejeweled clothes were being brought for them.  By the end, we were surrounded by piles, chose our outfits and were surprised that Zeeshan’s mother paid for all of them.  On the way back in the tuk tuk, the traffic was so bad we got out and walked!

After the joyful shopping we went to the tomb of I’Timad-Ud-Daulah, built between 1622-28.  This is the tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and other family members, who came from Iran to serve as a minister to Akbar (he was an exiled amir rising in prominence in the court).  The patriarch of the family buried here was the grandfather of the famous Mumtaz Mahal, in whose memory the Taj Mahal was built.  Aside from being beautiful, this building is famous for being the first building made from marble, marking the transition from using red sandstone. It is considered the forerunner of the grand Taj Mahal. The evening light cast a lovely yellow glow to the marble.

The outer building, still in red sandstone, presented a noble entrance.

The reason for the existence of this tomb has an interesting story  It was commissioned by the daughter, Mehr-un-Nissa (Nur Jasan), who after being widowed made the political decision to marry Jahangir, the 4^th Mughal emperor who was long infatuated with her.   She was a powerful and influential woman, considered by some historians to be the real power behind the Mughal throne during Jahangir’s reign. She was granted unprecedented privileges, including having her name on coins. Her influence stemmed from her intelligence, administrative skills, and Jahangir’s fondness for her, as well as his reliance on her due to his addiction to opium and alcohol.  In ‘honor’ of this, when she built this mausoleum she included many pictures of wine bottles, probably to pay respects to the reason why she could wield the power she did.   Also of note, she made many contributions to Mughal architecture, the arts, and made efforts to improve the lives of women through education and charitable works. 

I think the beauty of the tomb is clearly a testament to her sense of style. The building has a cozy intimacy while simultaneously presenting itself as magnificent.

Here are some examples of the wine bottle decor.

Along with the outer beauty, the inside was stunning.  The two initial rooms still remain in my memory as some of the most beautiful wall décor I have ever seen. The rooms have a harmony within the details, even though the rooms are small and heavily decorated.

The details and decorations seen in my photos, whether renovated or rotting, show you the rest of my impressions.

Below you will notice, there is a lovely garden.  The purpose of these gardens in Mughul architecture is to exemplify paradise (before the British changed them to more European flower gardens) and followed a religious pattern.  The quadrilateral garden design was divided by walkways or flowing water into four smaller sections. This layout is inspired by the Islamic concept of paradise, described in the Quran as a garden with four rivers. Carefully chosen flowers and plants, such as cypress trees (representing death) and fruit trees (symbolizing life and rebirth), were used to enhance the garden’s symbolism. Well thought out, you could walk amongst the trees and shrubs as well as walk above them, allowing visitors to enjoy nature as well as pluck fruit from the top or bottom of the trees!

I end my photos of our visit to this magnificent location by sharing images of the key players.

What was new for me this time in Agra was looking at the Taj from across the river, a unique perspective.  We ended our day stopping here for the photo opportunity.  Originally, Shah Jahan was to build a black Taj across the river, but the son refused to use treasury money for that. You can see the ruins of the foundation here.

Sunday morning brought us to the Taj, done in style as we rented saris for the occasion.  This was my third time seeing this architectural marvel, Alex’s first.  It is always fun to see how people react to seeing the Taj for the first time. 

One of the amazing aspects of the Taj is that absolutely everything is 100% symmetrical, down to the tiniest detail – except for the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal’s husband.  Since the son refused to use treasury money for building the Black Taj, he buried his father next to his beloved, and he subsequently became the lone asymmetrical element of the Taj.

Some unofficial photos inside the tomb.

Wearing saris at the Taj Mahal demands taking many photos: some fun, some serious.

Next up were the requisite stops at shops: jewelry and marble inlay aka the Taj.  What made these visits special was that my sister had saved up to buy a ring and a piece for above her bed.  It was great to watch her design what she wanted and have it shipped to the US. I include a photo of the finished pieces!

In the marble shop we saw how the art is made, a tradition that remains the same since the times the Taj was built.  The stone can be ground down by artisan experts to the thinnest of slices.  We also saw the various stones from which the shapes are created.

Creating the design:

The finished product:

My sister’s ring is an opal (her birthstone) surrounded by sapphires (her favorite stone).  Being India, these pieces were quite affordable.  For me, it was a unique experience to be shopping with someone who spent more than me!

No photos of the designing in process, but here is the finished product:

Our last stop was to see elephants at the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre outside of Agra.  The elephant I fell in love with was old and tired, I am so glad she is ending her life being cared for.

Interesting factoids about elephants:

1. An elephant’s trunk has over 40,000 muscles
2. Elephants have the largest brain of any mammal on earth.  Certainly more than many humans!
3. Male (bull) elephants prefer a solitary life but will occasionally form bachelor herds.
4. Female elephants love the group life.
5. Elephants use their trunks as a snorkel to breathe when they are underwater.
6. Elephants use dust baths and mud as natural sunscreen.  I will stick Coppertone.
7. Tusks are teeth that extend beyond the mouth.  They re-grow if broken or damaged.
8. Elephants eat 200kg of food every day, which is 5% of their bodyweight.
9. When elephants flap their ears they are regulating their body temperature or are stressed.

Next are some people photos I took while we were in Agra.

Two more examples of Indian packing expertise.

As you all know, I have seen a lot of street art in India and have shared it with you.  Without a doubt, Agra has the most amazing array of street art.  Most noticeable are the painted columns under the metro, painted for the G20 visit several years ago.

We returned to Mumbai, and I spent the week working while Alex explored Mumbai and its surroundings.  Thursday evening, we headed to South Mumbai where we had pre-dinner drinks at the Taj Hotel (we were too early for dinner which starts after 7). Then we headed to my favorite restaurant, The Table.  We had the best time eating, drinking, and laughing with our waiter who gave us a complementary dessert with a lovely card.  The food and drinks, as always, were exquisite.   The ambiance of our table in the corner was the finishing touch.

The Harbor Bar at the Taj is a small and cozy space, with lovely artwork and plaques mentioning historical information associated with the bar.

Friday took us to Dharavi in the morning and the experience of Masque at night. 

First, a few photos from our walking tour:

Masque, one of the top 50 restaurants in all of Asia, has a 10-course tasting menu that marries traditional Indian cuisine with innovations inspired by influences from around the world.  The meal has a wine pairing component as well, along with interesting cocktails.

We started with refreshing cocktails as the heat got to us today.  Then the meal began with us enjoying the interactions with the sommelier as he presented the accompanying wines.  It was so fun experiencing this meal with my sister, who is a chef, and seeing her experience this unique cuisine – especially when we got to visit the kitchen for an intermezzo.  For some reason (it might have something to do with the wine), the last courses don’t seem to have photos accompanying them.

Saturday, my sister’s last day started slowly with a quiet morning in the apartment.  Then we headed back down to South Mumbai for a final visit to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharah Vastu Sangrahalaya Museum, formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum – which is much easier to pronounce and remember.  I love this museum and made sure to relish my last visit here.  Should you ever find yourself in Mumbai, this is a must visit.  What made the visit more special was it has recently been renovated so along with my favorite spots there were new exhibits, along with the temporary ones I had not yet seen.

A best moment was being given a tour of the exhibit honoring the cultural traditional of folk and tribal art by a lovely docent. 

The regular display of the development of the textile industry in India was revamped to include videos of generational artisans at work.  I connected with some of the artisans’ quotes that were projected:

“thread is a pathway, a line to follow through the passage of life”

“if you are troubled by mundane thoughts you cannot do this work”

“cloth is our second skin, our first home out of the womb”

“like a mother, cotton is a gift from nature, pure comfort”

“cloth swells with movement to the fullness of life”

I always enjoy looking at stone carvings.

Indian miniature paining is full of intricate details.  Some of the painting use gold paint which further enhances the scenes of royal splendor.

Then there are the pieces that just caught my eye.

After the museum, I decide my sister had to try fresh sugar cane juice!

We then decided another meal at The Table was in order for lunch, as it was a short walk from the museum.  The lunch menu was different and equally delicious. 

The rides to and from home allowed me to take a few, last photos of South Mumbai.